M6 "Classic" Meter

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From a price/performance perspective, the M6 Classic is the best of all the M cameras produced.

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If you need a meter... otherwise M4-2 (& probably M4-P) better P/P, a shooter M2 can be cheap. Lots of people 'need' the meter so the M6 etc are more expensive - supply and demand.

 

How anyone can say that an M2 is faster is beyond me?... move the aperture ring until the correct exposure is indicated and shoot,..

 

Suggest you have assumed that every one uses your procedure, and that the subject is not transient, some people preset exposure & memorize any adjustments, e.g. for shade, but are still distracted by the little lights, and by then the subject has gone/changed.

 

The single semi spot meter acceptance does not always give an acceptable exposure for critical work, might need stop more or less, e.g. the preset exposure might have been ok anyway...

 

Some people are slowed by the multiple frames, compared with e.g. a M3 with 5cm lens. Myself I've been known to use the wrong set, bad I know...

 

It's form/function is just like every other M so how it can feel any different is beyond me.

 

Some people can detect the steel gears in a M4-2 to MP, and Leica say they have spend effort making the MP gearing more smooth, well worn cameras (like M4-2) do seem smoother, than new ones. Not every one is annoyed by this... never tried an MP myself.

 

I know people who cannot stand the plastic tip pivot, arguments like it is easier to get into the bag, etc. lost on them, they pay money for change of camera or wind on lever... Think the pivot upsets them...

 

Other people cannot operate the flip up rewind thing, they let go in mid rewind... MP have the old knob back with a clutch.

 

The earlier cameras e.g. M2 and M3 have tighter tolerances on the mount and won't mount/latch all lenses/adapters - out of the box. This does not alter handling feel but you need to be careful, especially with 3rd party items. Had problems with M5 as well.

 

[quote name=budrichard;1311659

Lastly' date=' since manufactured after any M3/M2/M4, it should have better reliability but of course the MP is a lot newer manufacture.

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An M6 or MP etc. has an exposure meter to fail, normally this means less reliable when you predict reliability, early M6 seem to have had some problems above and beyond what reliability statistics would have predicted, i.e. from 'infant deaths'.

 

Shutter ribbons seem to snap at random, rather than on service or life, though I may have been unlucky. Other than that If you used them sufficient they don't seem to need attention unless you strip a brass gear, done that too.

 

If there is water ingress that can upset the lube.

 

I do have an M6 but I tend to leave the battery out mainly cause it goes flat and I don't like leakage risks, camera in hand I ride the 1st shutter pressure and leave the LEDs on most of the time, the gbag seems to use the same technique. I always leave the camera preset for exposure, & 'B' is too slow.

 

Noel

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[mike.ong]

Cheating by opening up the lens aperture and setting the ISO higher to get a reading and then setting lens back again is a lot slower than using a low light level meter.

 

Noel

 

Nice idea Noel.

 

And Dick, the reason why I follow the Sunny 16 mainly because I don't want to rely on a meter. Yes you're right with the shadows and ranges but I think capturing "the moment" you wanted in a "not so perfect exposure" is better than nothing because you were busy working with your meter. Of course that's for me.

 

Another thing, I don't want to reach a point when I would have a different time with exposure settings since I don't have a meter.

 

And I didn't mean by saying "of course" that all M users use the Sunny 16.

 

Appreciate your response.

[Xmas]

Nice idea Noel.

 

And Dick, the reason why I follow the Sunny 16 mainly because I don't want to rely on a meter. Yes you're right with the shadows and ranges but I think capturing "the moment" you wanted in a "not so perfect exposure" is better than nothing because you were busy working with your meter. Of course that's for me.

 

Another thing, I don't want to reach a point when I would have a different time with exposure settings since I don't have a meter.

 

And I didn't mean by saying "of course" that all M users use the Sunny 16.

 

Appreciate your response.

 

The fudge a reading technique is explained in the Leica instruction manual, this also provides a nomogram which you could scan print and encapsulate in a sleeve, one side black velvet, for when auto headlamps are about to annoy a long exposure. But I'd recommend a sensitive hand held meter, as well, as soon as you clamp the M to a tripod, it is more difficult to point.

 

Noel

[budrichard]

"Some people can detect the steel gears in a M4-2 to MP, and Leica say they have spend effort making the MP gearing more smooth, well worn cameras (like M4-2) do seem smoother, than new ones. Not every one is annoyed by this... never tried an MP myself."

 

I'm really impressed that "some people" spend so much time on such minuitae rather than composition and technique.

I have M3, M6 Classic and two M7's. Frankly I never compared the winding or any of the other subjective parameters that are bandied about as 'differences'. The major differences to me are the metering systems and shutter control. So as each succesive M offered better metering and shutter control, I moved up the chain to where with the M7's, all I do is meter an apropriate part of the scene, lock the exposure by partially depressing the shutter, compose and shoot. Easy, simple, very accurate exposures, only surpassed by using a spot meter and zone system and by then most of the subjects will be gone or lighting will have changed.

As for taking the batteries out of an M6, I frankly find that behavior baffling. My M6 battery lasts a long time, I turn the camera to B when not in use and its not a problem at all.

The original Poster is certainly free to do what he wants, but I would strongly suggest rethinking your exposure technique and purchasing a camera that will help you make a good exposure rather than hinder you.

My M3 never gets used anymore, the M6 has a 21mm ASPH with Metz handle flash and the M7's handle most of the other work. I can't remember the last time I needed or used my spot meter. -Dick

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I moved up the chain to where with the M7's, all I do is meter an apropriate part of the scene, lock the exposure by partially depressing the shutter, compose and shoot. Easy, simple, very accurate exposures, only surpassed by using a spot meter and zone system and by then most of the subjects will be gone or lighting will have changed.

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I'm happy for you that you have found a technique you like and that works.

As for taking the batteries out of an M6, I frankly find that behavior baffling. My M6 battery lasts a long time, I turn the camera to B when not in use and its not a problem at all.

If I don't use the meter and a battery goes flat in a day it seems strange to replace them...

The original Poster is certainly free to do what he wants, but I would strongly suggest rethinking your exposure technique and purchasing a camera that will help you make a good exposure rather than hinder you.

Thank for your kind concerns but I don't have any problem with exposure. I use a Weston Master & Invercone.

 

I do have a problem that even with preset settings and prefocused I miss the transitory shot too often.

 

Thank you also for suggesting that every one needs a M7 or M6, makes the M3, to M4-P & other obsolete junk cheaper, that is just to nice of you. I don't see why you keep the M3 other than perhaps for sentiment.

 

It must have been real hard for people before the M6 and M7 were available to make good exposures.

 

Noel

[budrichard]

I moved up the chain to where with the M7's, all I do is meter an apropriate part of the scene, lock the exposure by partially depressing the shutter, compose and shoot. Easy, simple, very accurate exposures, only surpassed by using a spot meter and zone system and by then most of the subjects will be gone or lighting will have changed.

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I'm happy for you that you have found a technique you like and that works.

 

If I don't use the meter and a battery goes flat in a day it seems strange to replace them...

 

Thank for your kind concerns but I don't have any problem with exposure. I use a Weston Master & Invercone.

 

I do have a problem that even with preset settings and prefocused I miss the transitory shot too often.

 

Thank you also for suggesting that every one needs a M7 or M6, makes the M3, to M4-P & other obsolete junk cheaper, that is just to nice of you. I don't see why you keep the M3 other than perhaps for sentiment.

 

It must have been real hard for people before the M6 and M7 were available to make good exposures.

 

Noel

 

My original Post was not directed at you or your comments but meant to help the original Poster. . I have absolutely no wish to get into a Posting match with yourself, so you can continue to Post all you want but the purpose of these Forums is to help people with knowledge or exchange ideas or information,.

 

Your Post,

"Thank you also for suggesting that every one needs a M7 or M6, makes the M3, to M4-P & other obsolete junk cheaper, that is just to nice of you. I don't see why you keep the M3 other than perhaps for sentiment.

 

I see absolutely nowhere that I Posted "other obsolete junk cheaper".

 

I am offering my experiences and history of Leica M usage which extends over 40+ years of M usage to the original Poster. You can do what you want but it would be nice to offer some advice.

It's EOT for me on this topic unless the original Poster has some other questions.

I do suggest you get your M6 fixed as if operating properly, the batteries do not go flat in one day.

 

I stand by my original Post.

"If I had to choose only one M camera to have, it would be my M6 Classic 0.85"-Dick