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Leica M8 Stereo Portrait


atufte

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Talking of stereo pictures, several years ago I became interested in this technique:

 

Omphalos Burning Man 2003 stereo wiggle images

Jim Gasperini Links

Oakland Camera Club Panoram Time for Space Wiggle Jim Gasperini

 

I spent ages trying to track down a leica Stereoly http://www.clt.astate.edu/elind/LeicaStereo.htm

 

I feel an urge coming on to revisit this technique using something like this....

FinePix REAL 3D W1 | Fujifilm Global

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for the non-cross eyed the animated gif technique is useful, made with this on-line software Picasion - Create GIF animations online - Get images from Picasa Web or Flickr:

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for the non-cross eyed the animated gif technique is useful, made with this on-line software Picasion - Create GIF animations online - Get images from Picasa Web or Flickr:

 

Thanks for your effort but this does not work for me at all, does it work for anyone else?

It just look's like two 2D pictures in a row, no stereo or 3D effect, at least to my eye?

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... does not work for me at all, does it work for anyone else?

It just look's like two 2D pictures in a row, no stereo or 3D effect, at least to my eye?

 

It does not work for me, either. There are techniques which involve "wiggling" the pictures; however, there's always a kind of shutter involved which assigns each picture to the proper eye. Of course, if you manage to blink either eye synchronously with the "wiggling" frequency ...

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I agree; the kitchen picture is very nice. It also is quite easy to look at. The rope is fascinating. however, seeing the complete depth of the ridge of the rock is not for the beginner, I think. The one with the pole is lovely for its tonality and depth. What's the pole for?

 

Thanks, the pole is for "parking" boats, without them hitting the rocky surroundings...

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Thanks for your effort but this does not work for me at all, does it work for anyone else?

It just look's like two 2D pictures in a row, no stereo or 3D effect, at least to my eye?

 

in this case, it doesn't work well . . . maybe to do with frame speed but i think also with camera far apart between the two frames.

 

i have done this with a 100ms speed (your example has 700ms . . . slow) and maybe 5-6 cm between camera positions and it works pretty well . . . the jiggling makes you nervous but it simulates 3D somewhat.

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Here's one which probably will not make you nervous. Best viewed with crossed eyes.

 

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Taken with a DMC-LC1; no PP except for scaling down to 50% and cropping.

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My grandfather's watch. I have shown that watch elsewhere in mono. Here's a remake with the LC1. This is a 100% crop just to show off the quality of the lens. The base for the stereo pair is a bit smaller than normal, to exaggerate the three dimensional effect.

 

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Here's a somewhat different technique: drive-by stereo. I held the camera to the window pane of the tram while it was in motion and took a burst of shots. As always, the dependable LC1.

 

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Since the base of the stereo pair becomes rather large that way, the scale of things appears a bit weird.

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Here's another drive-by stereo. This time the tram moved around a bend and much more slowly. The proportions of the building become very evident. Also, you can see into the shop. PP was restricted to some cropping and scaling.

 

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Taken with an LC1.

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Philipp

 

more nice additions . . . there is some very definite size relationship (screen res, image size eye spacing). . . the watch photo(s) ar the most easy to see in 3D of all the posted images . . . the others, not so easy . . .

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Dave - thank you.

 

If the correlation with distance holds true, then the cat ought to be still less difficult. Can you confirm that?

 

I have given the matter some more thought. The reason why picture pairs which exceed a certain size have to be presented for cross eyed viewing is that the horizontal distance between the pictures is larger than the distance of the viewers eyes, and no one I know can voluntarily move his eyes such that their axes diverge.

 

Cross eyed viewing solves this problem by making the optical axes of the eyes meet some distance before the image pair. That way, it is very simple to adjust the eyes such that the contents of both pictures align.

 

This, however, obviously introduces a new problem. The eyes (rather, the brain which controls the eyes) expects the distance of the object being viewed to be consistent with the convergence of the eyes. It focuses the lenses of the eyes such that the point is in focus where the optical axes of the eyes meet.

 

There's the problem. The optical axes of the eyes meet at a distance of - say - eight inches in front of your face while the screen with the pictures to be viewed is at a distance of - perhaps - 24". The actual distances and their ratio is determined by just three parameters: the distance between the screen and your face, the distance between your eyes and the distance between the pictures.

 

As always, there are several solutions to the problem. The more obvious ones: move away from the screen or downscale the picture.

 

A less obvious one: use "negative" reading glasses, i.e. glasses with negative number of diopters (?), such as short sighted people use for seeing at greater distances. My skills in physics have somehow corroded in the last 45 years or so. I'm sure either some helpful member here or your ophtalmologist can determine the required focal length.

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Afterthought -

 

There also is a correlation with the depth of the stereo image. The watch is very shallow. The market place with the sausage booth and the shirts on sale is very deep indeed. Consider the distance between the pigeon and the church spire. The building with the tourist information sign is also quite deep, but the row of columns assists the eye in choosing the proper convergence, I think.

 

Afterthought 2:

 

I've just noticed that the marketplace one will become easier when you crop the lower edge. Simply drop the bit of pavement, pigeon and all. I think it will become much easier on the eyes, I think.

 

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there is some very definite size relationship (screen res, image size eye spacing).

Here's the next masterpiece which should be dead easy. I have reduced the image size and, hence, the distance between the pair. I have carefully chosen a subject which does not have many fine vertical contours.

 

This is the version for cross eyed viewing:

 

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The following is the version for viewing with the axes of the eyes roughly in parallel, i.e. the image on the left hand side is to be viewed by the left eye and vice versa. Using your normal reading glasses might help.

 

 

The pic shows a boundary marker which separates the Canton of Basel (City) from the Canton of Basel (Environs). Cantons are what the Swiss call their individual states which make up the Federation of Switzerland.

 

The pix have been taken with an LC1, and the shots have been taken one after the other with manually displacing the hand held camera.

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Philipp

 

your exhaustive analysis is appreciated (by the technical side of my brain).

 

about your question: the cat photo is VERY easy (for me) to see using crossed eyes.

 

i cannot ever make the parallel eyes technique work, and the last two sets you posted (the markers) look identical in size and separation on my screen, i will go back and look again at them.

 

some bright young programmer could probably write something to do this on a 2D computer monitor . . . i think . . . ?

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