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My first roll of film is back - need some help!


Julian Thompson

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I understand what you mean - I think I refer to this inability to instantly 'see' the result, instead it's harder because it forces you to 'see' the result in your head as you compose. Of course with digital you CAN do that, and I can see that a film shooter will BE doing that even with digital. I've tried but often just look at the LCD anyway (just to be sure, you understand!) - Of course with film this just is not an option. But at the same time it's kind of liberating because you're off, onto the next shot.

 

All great fun - I'm really enjoying it and the MP is a joy.

 

So far so good.

 

Can anyone recommend a couple of nice films for me to try as a novice?

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Can anyone recommend a couple of nice films for me to try as a novice?

 

Here come the opinions.

 

If you are sticking with color, Kodak Portra is nice. Pick a speed (160 or 400) and then saturated (VC) or not (NC). I think for outdoor stuff in good strong light, 160VC is good stuff. For moodier, darker scenes, 400NC is really nice. 400NC can be a little weak in the color department though if you are shooting landscapes in full sunlight dominated by green. Also, Fuji 400X is a great slide film.

 

B&W - I like traditional B&W films. Anything by Kodak, Ilford, or Fuji is good. I'd develop it myself though.

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An opinion for film is allways good but the best thing is to explore all films you can get.

 

I'm new in film photography too. I'm still learning and exploring many kinds of film. For B&W I like the ones with more contrast with or without grain.

 

For colour it's harder to me to choose. Just because I used expired films a lot so I don't know the real abillty of them.

 

This is one example of my personal taste:

 

Nike Vandal - Hasselblad 500C/M + Fuji NPS160 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

:)

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there is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with going with c41 films. kodak cn 400 is b&w and c41. significantly cheaper than true b&w film. in my experience, it's got good contrast and very fine grain. no one out there makes bad film. it's who prefers what.

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The Tri-x and Delta 400 are good films however you need to develop them your self or post off, and very few places will offer fast turn around, or quality.

 

The C41 monochromes can be processed, and scanned or printed at local mini lab, quality is not good but cheap and fast..

 

I recommend you get the equipment for home processing you only need a changing bag, and a bathroom, after a visit to the local camera club, then try Delta 400 and Tri-x..

 

The next step is a scanner, for proofing, if you need a mural you need a pro scan or enlarger.

 

The next an enlarger - free if you can live withot a Leitz enlarger

 

Noel

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Guest dk_samurai

Haven't read everyone's response properly, but if you had a "cheap" mini-lab scan your film and print it, it could be their digital ICE technology that takes away the sharpness of your images. Also, film grain makes them "less sharp", if you will. But it does look soooo good, though.

 

/David

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Julian: It's very cool that your entering into the world of film. First off your doing great, getting one or two keepers from your first roll is no easy feet.Im not kidding. You got your feet wet and rest is easy:cool: Since you have asked your some advice Ill give you some thoughts.

First off, cut your self some slack, getting it right on film is a life time journey your on roll one.:p

If I was you I would stick with some C41 B+w like XP2 or CN kodak for the first week. Go and get 20 rolls. And since you got the M9 why dont you make life easier and use the M9 like a polaroid.Im sure you got ore than one lens and shooting a shot with the M9 first and getting the setting(elements) right before making the commitment to film Nothing wrong with that at all.I do it all the time with my film lecia M/Nikon F4s/F3 using my Nikon D3 to check exposer composition lighting and depth of field..00. Often I have the same shot in Digital/B+w/color film . And thats cool. Film is expensive, however if you use the M9 as a polaroid your keeper rate will jump way up. I know it kind of messes with the whole film experience thing but right now you need to gain confidence in the film M. In time you get into the darkroom and learn to soup your film and print in wet. For now I really believe that getting the MP to become an extension of your hand/eye imagination. And there is nothing that is going to do that except running film through it. Best of luck.

 

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Leica M6 28 1.9 Voitlander ASAP. on XP2

 

 

 

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Leica M7 15 Voitlander 15 4.5 on Ektar 100 film

 

 

 

Gregory

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Hi Gregory,

Thanks so much for your encouragement. I'd seen your shot of the fence before and admired it greatly for its managment of those shooting conditions.

I took the M9 out yesterday to a 60th birthday party and felt the film M already having influence on the way I work in a positive sense. Digital can be dangerous for forming bad habits, I can see, and I'm having to 'unlearn them' as I go!

Not feeling the need to 'polaroid' the shots too much and not sure I've got the skill yet to manage 2 bodies about my person without getting into a pickle! The 'unobtrusive photographer' I would not be!!

The mantra 'practice practive practice' springs to mind.

Fantastic challenge though.

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