mwalker649 Posted October 19, 2009 Share #1 Posted October 19, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) How big of a print have you made with the M9 and what did you think? How did you up rez, GF or photoshop or something else. Side question; what size prints would do you print for Gallery show that requires at least 25 prints. I realize multi sizes can be used but is there a norm? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 Hi mwalker649, Take a look here How big of a print have you made?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jschone Posted October 19, 2009 Share #2 Posted October 19, 2009 well, M8 images I print comfortably at 60x90 cm and I also have made some 100x150 cm prints and they look very good. I run a fine Art Print studio and quality is very important. It is all about starting off right, so technique is as follows: -First bring down the dpi to 180 dpi, so there is no interpolation involved yet (the new Epson, HP and Canon will take care of the uprez proces) -Use bicubic smoother to interpolate the image to the size you want. -Now, the most important is to really start working on your image from here. Sharpening with local adjustments, masks. Local dodging and burning. Adjust midtone contrast (here there are some advanced techniques possible but an easy one is as follows --> "unsharp mask with amount 20 radius 60. This should give a good starting point, layer blending options for more control over edges) otherwise some high pass filter and overlay blending would also work. Just experiment and from there on you add new tecniques. -If you're missing some sharpness, you could easily resolve this by adding some grain to the image (although you could re-invent the wheel yourself, I always trust on Photokit sharpener for this one) -Choose the right paper for the image. (I use either cotton/bamboo or Baryta papers) Cotton is more "forgiving" -Soft proof your image and make a final adjustment curve Images from the M8 (and i am sure also the m9) interpolate very well. Most slr's have trouble with green foliage for example. A portrait is much more easy to uprez then a forest (not so strange, since calculating neighbour pixels is easier on a portrait) Anyway, I have ordered the M9 because i think it will make my final workflow more efficient with even better quality. When it arrives I will immediatelymake a 100x150 cm "test" print and will let you know how it looks :-) jochem Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted October 19, 2009 Share #3 Posted October 19, 2009 Nothing with the M9 yet, but with the M8 30"x20" has been no problem, without any special treatment. This means a pro printer should have absolutely no problem with large prints. Like jochem said things like foliage will appear differently than portraits, and the paper counts too, but you have to take viewing distance into account. I have in fact seen some stunning M9 poster prints by forum member Brett up close. So you are in for a treat! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreas_thomsen Posted October 19, 2009 Share #4 Posted October 19, 2009 you should not go bigger than a3 format. the sensor is to small for bigger prints. cheers andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haroldp Posted October 19, 2009 Share #5 Posted October 19, 2009 Qimage ( 59 USD ) handles uprezzing and final sharpening automatically and brilliantly. Much better algorithms than Adobe. I regularly print 24 X 36 in with great results and have never seen any artifacts. My only complaint is that it is windows only, forcing me to run parallels on my macpro. Regards .. Harold Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDPI Lab Posted October 19, 2009 Share #6 Posted October 19, 2009 I have printed M8/50 f2 images 30x40 with great results. Landscape images, no software interpolation. I exported a 100 quality JPG from lightroom after exposure and WB adjustments. I am a little spoiled with printers and print on a Durst Theta 76 on Fuji Super Type PD luster and Fuji Pearl RA-4 papers. (I own a lab..) Images are mounted and hung and look great. All interpolation to the printer's native 254 DPI is done at time of exposure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
graeme_hutton Posted October 19, 2009 Share #7 Posted October 19, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) you should not go bigger than a3 format.the sensor is to small for bigger prints. cheers andy ?...... I've printed 1000x700 from the M8 with no specialist processing and it looks just great. Graeme Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschone Posted October 19, 2009 Share #8 Posted October 19, 2009 Qimage ( 59 USD ) handles uprezzing and final sharpening automatically and brilliantly. Much better algorithms than Adobe. I regularly print 24 X 36 in with great results and have never seen any artifacts. My only complaint is that it is windows only, forcing me to run parallels on my macpro. Regards .. Harold Harold, Although qimage is a nice program, the process as I described in my first post should give you a more controlled result. Automated algorithms works fine on a batch of images though. For automation of final sharpening I would recommend Photokit Sharpener since you're are still able to control final output. Jochem Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschone Posted October 19, 2009 Share #9 Posted October 19, 2009 you should not go bigger than a3 format.the sensor is to small for bigger prints. cheers andy Dear Andy, what would happen according to you if we were printing bigger then A3? The 300 dpi idea is really a myth. Today's high'end inkjet printers can easily have an 180 dpi sent to. The printer takes care of the rest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbgeach Posted October 19, 2009 Share #10 Posted October 19, 2009 Andy, the size of your image depends on the distance from which people will view it. I can sit 5 feet away from my 1080p big screen which has the equivalent resolution of 1920x1080 on a 43"x25" screen. The size you print depends on your expected viewing distance and audience. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adan Posted October 19, 2009 Share #11 Posted October 19, 2009 Frankly, either an M8 or an M9 would be good enough for the Kodak Colorama in Grand Central Station (now R.I.P) which was 61 feet wide: Pelicula 64: The Colorama For gallery prints, 16 x 20 (14 x 20 with the "35mm" shape) is probably a rational starting point, and that is easy with an M9, and doable with an M8 and careful technique. Realistically, check with the actual gallery as to what has worked well in their "space" previously. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustafasoleiman Posted October 19, 2009 Share #12 Posted October 19, 2009 I regularly do 100x70cm (A0) prints from M8. Size really should depend on what you, the artist, want to do/say and what the image is good at... The gallery can only tell you what size is more commercial. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haroldp Posted October 20, 2009 Share #13 Posted October 20, 2009 Jochem: I have no doubt that applying the time, attention and professional skills that you have will produce a highly optimized result. Software like Qimage is not a substitute for a RIP in the hands of a skilled professional, but gets most of us 80-90% of the way there, and produces much better results than simply uprezzing and printing from photoshop which is what most would otherwise do. I am assuming properly calibrated color management and profiling. Qimage has multiple interpolation algorithms and is also configurable for final dpi, and sharpening. I have found that HP printers ( I use a Z3100 24 in. ) produce excellent results at 600 dpi. Regards ... Harold Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
noah_addis Posted October 20, 2009 Share #14 Posted October 20, 2009 I've been printing a series of 14x21 inch prints from the M8 and they look very good. I'm fairly picky when it comes to print quality and I've been surprised by the quality. I feel like the files could actually go bigger and still have a high level of quality. Incidentally, a few frames from the project were shot with the D700 with Zeiss 28/2. They also are holding up quite nicely at that size. In fact it's very hard to tell the difference between the cameras in the final prints. The ZF28/2 is a bit soft at the edges wide-open. The biggest I can really print at home is 16x24 on roll paper with my Epson 4880. I'm sure the M9 files will look amazing at that size. I've only done a few test prints so far but I'm seeing good results. I know that viewing distance affects how large you can print. That may be true for billboards and even poster prints but if I'm showing work in a gallery I want good quality even if someone views the print up close, and even for large prints. I want viewers to be able to take in the whole scene from a distance but then come closer to check out the details within the frame. Judging from some test sections I've printed, I'm fairly confident that the M9 will hold up to 24x36 in. or maybe even larger with excellent quality. I was impressed with a section of print enlarged to the equivalent of 40x60 inches! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalker649 Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share #15 Posted October 20, 2009 What about Genuine Fracals 6? Is this an option? And please explain why 300dpi is a myth. I've heard that before but I don't understand it. When printing for a Gallery should I size as standard photographic sizes or use digital sizes? I know some Galleries prefer film sizes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrice Posted October 20, 2009 Share #16 Posted October 20, 2009 What about Genuine Fracals 6? Is this an option? And please explain why 300dpi is a myth. I've heard that before but I don't understand it. When printing for a Gallery should I size as standard photographic sizes or use digital sizes? I know some Galleries prefer film sizes. I'll address the 300dpi question... Because you can simply change the dpi in photoshop with no effect on the quality of a lossless digital file. changing dpi on an uncompressed file will in no way damage the information within, it merely affects the way the monitor/application displays it. So for example if you send a stock agency an 18Mp TIFF file at 72dpi and they change it to 300dpi, the quality is the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
noah_addis Posted October 20, 2009 Share #17 Posted October 20, 2009 When printing for a Gallery should I size as standard photographic sizes or use digital sizes? I know some Galleries prefer film sizes. I've never heard of a gallery refer to 'digital' or 'film' sizes or specify a preference. I suppose one exception would be if you're using their frames or mats but even then I wouldn't think highly of a gallery that asked you to crop your photos to fit a certain format. Really the 35mm format is closer to some of the inkjet printer paper sizes than it is to darkroom paper sizes. I print to the format of the camera I'm working with (or sometimes crop where appropriate) but the aspect ratio of the actual paper I'm printing on is of no concern. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted October 20, 2009 Share #18 Posted October 20, 2009 And please explain why 300dpi is a myth. I'll answer it in a different way: 300dpi used to be the threshold for high quality. It is a myth because current high-end inkjet printers don't use 300dpi natively any more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalker649 Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share #19 Posted October 20, 2009 Noah, Your absolutely correct they haven't asked for a specific size of any kind. To be a matter of fact the series of shows/exhibits "Klintsy Russia" aren't scheduled until May 2011 so I have plenty of time to decide what to do. The foundation that is sponsoring my shots are giving me an allowance (not much) to print and frame so I think its totally up to me. Carsten, I have printed a 22X30 with the M8 using GR 6 and the print looks good although I didn't pixel peep that much . I used 300dpi because you have to put something in, what should I use as a value? I'm printing with a Canon ipf6100. Thanks to you all Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankbernhard Posted October 20, 2009 Share #20 Posted October 20, 2009 I'll answer it in a different way: 300dpi used to be the threshold for high quality. It is a myth because current high-end inkjet printers don't use 300dpi natively any more. The 300 ppi are a good advice when you’re talking about offset printing. (If you’re interested in the origin of the 300 ppi myth, have a look here: Halftone - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) The way a laser imager must "rip" an image for color separated offset films differs a lot from the way modern inkjet printers are spraying the pixels. Jochem seems to have grand expertise, his workflow sounds very plausible to me. F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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