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RH Design Enlarging Exposure Meter


kenneth

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I recently purchased a Gossen Starlite Spotmeter which is invaluable at the taking stage with my M system cameras and I am now considering buying a Zonemaster Enlarging Meter from RH Design in Hawes North Yorkshire to use at the printing stage. They also produce a Pro version which links into the enlarger and acts as a switching mechanism but my Durst 670 enlarger already has this facility so I see little point in spending another £100 to get something I already have. Does anyone have any experience of this item? I do know the company and respect thier product line.

 

ZoneMaster II

 

The RH Designs Grey Scale Display System

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There is analogue photography forum named APUG and there RHesigns products are nothing but praised. You can't get anything better than that. Heiland Splitgrade is also only praised, but ZoneMaster is much more popular.

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Very good products. Both from a practical and a quality standpoint.

 

Very good company. Upgrades it products for a reasonable fee (when technically possible).

 

Get The Analyzer.

 

Only drawback: the products are so well liked that they are almost impossible to buy second hand.

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To both the above posters. I know the products are good and I know I could go on the APUG forum for more information. I just wondered if anyone here has any thoughts and if you haven't then thats fine but please don't reiterate what I have already posted. It is so tedious

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To both the above posters. I know the products are good and I know I could go on the APUG forum for more information. I just wondered if anyone here has any thoughts and if you haven't then thats fine but please don't reiterate what I have already posted. It is so tedious

 

Thoughts have been posted at APUG, too tedious to reiterate here.

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Since about six month I have an Analyzer Pro and so far am very happy with it. The build quality is very good: metal enclosure, real glass over the display, nice buttons. The functionality, which is probably the same as in the ZoneMaster, is good as well once you get used to the grey scale display system (eg where exactly to place your tones) and the f-stop printing approach that is being used. The only thing that I envy the heiland splitgrade users of is the fact that they can simply download all necessary values for a hugh variety of papers, whereas I always have to calibrate my paper/developer combination using a rather time consuming process. But once you did that it leaves little to be desired, the only thing i would like to see improved is the sensor which features a rather mediocre plastic enclosure and I find it difficult sometimes to really measure on a certain spot in the image. I much more prefer the fem kunze sensors for that matter. But given the very reasonable price of the rh package I would buy it again instantly. I honestly recommend it.

 

Cheers,

Torsten

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Since about six month I have an Analyzer Pro and so far am very happy with it. The build quality is very good: metal enclosure, real glass over the display, nice buttons. The functionality, which is probably the same as in the ZoneMaster, is good as well once you get used to the grey scale display system (eg where exactly to place your tones) and the f-stop printing approach that is being used. The only thing that I envy the heiland splitgrade users of is the fact that they can simply download all necessary values for a hugh variety of papers, whereas I always have to calibrate my paper/developer combination using a rather time consuming process. But once you did that it leaves little to be desired, the only thing i would like to see improved is the sensor which features a rather mediocre plastic enclosure and I find it difficult sometimes to really measure on a certain spot in the image. I much more prefer the fem kunze sensors for that matter. But given the very reasonable price of the rh package I would buy it again instantly. I honestly recommend it.

 

Cheers,

Torsten

Thank you Torsten. I spoke to Richard today and I might pop up to Hawes it if only an hour for me and then I can see the whole range. However, as an amateur I was a little concerned the whole idea might be a little over the top for my meager needs but then I guess I spent more than that on the Gossen Starite and I have found that excellent. He was suggesting I ditch the Stag timer that came with the second hand Durst 670 enlarger package and substitute it with the Analyser Pro. We shall see but thank you anyway
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Having allowed the issue of whether to buy an Analyser Pro or not to ruminate I am coming down on to the side of not buying. Through discussions that I have had it would seem that the RH Analyser Pro is a well thought out and very clever designed product aimed at busy professionals were time is money and through put is high but in my case, as a bumbling amateur with all the time in the world and limited output it could be said to be a little, sledge hammer to crack a nut approach.

 

I do, however still have the option to go up to Hawes on Wednesday and talk with Richard but I don't want to waste his time

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Professionals don't need one, they just look at the negative and know the exposure time and the paper grade.

 

YOU need done to avoid frustration.

I would disagree with that sweeping statement, or are you saying that I might find it beneficial? If so please feel free to elaborate
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Christer-Taking this a stage further the link here shows the Analyser Pro in action but still talks about having to produce a test strip to arrive at the right exposure. So my question is? If I am having to make a test strip anyway what advantages are to be gained by using it. Why don't I just make a test strip in the normal way and visually access my exposure?

 

Making test prints

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It lets you figure out what grade you want to print at too. If I recall how it works, you take a reading at the brightest white, and then a reading on something you want to be the darkest black, and it spits out a contrast grade. I think you can also take other readings, and it displays those on a gray scale LED display. You can then change grades on the meter and it will show where each of those points will shift to. I think :D

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The test strip is only for calibrating the unit, a once per paper type operation, not really needed for Ilford MG it comes calibrated for that to start with. I Have an Analyser Pro modified to link both grade and time to my enlarger. This saves no end of time and paper.

 

You get a good work print first time using it. After a while getting used to using the grey scale for dodging/burning a very good print is usually the second one.

 

Get the Analyser, turns off your safelights automaticaly too.

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The test strip is only for calibrating the unit, a once per paper type operation, not really needed for Ilford MG it comes calibrated for that to start with. I Have an Analyser Pro modified to link both grade and time to my enlarger. This saves no end of time and paper.

 

You get a good work print first time using it. After a while getting used to using the grey scale for dodging/burning a very good print is usually the second one.

 

Get the Analyser, turns off your safelights automaticaly too.

 

But in your opinion would you say it is a little over the top for an amateur like myself were time and money are not as important due to limited through put?

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Well, isn't Leica a bit over the top for an amateur?

 

Three things you can't skimp on in the darkroom:

1. enlarger lens - should be at least as good as the camera lens

2. easel

3. Analyzer

 

To answer an earlier question, at least indirectly: you measure the light through the negative in (generally) two places. The little red indicator lights on the Analyser tells you how light or dark the points measured will look on the final print. Increase/decrease the exposure time on the Analyser and both lights will move to show how both areas will look darker/lighter on the print. Change paper grade on the Analyser and the two points will come closer or move further apart (contrast changes) . You know what you will get before you have printed - provided you use common sense when you select the measuring point.

 

Straight prints from the _adjusted_ Analyser exposer time and filter number proposal generally gives a very good print. To get an excellent print you may need to change contrast by one quarter or one half grade and exposure by one or two twelveths of an f-stop.

 

Man, just get the darn Analyser.

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But in your opinion would you say it is a little over the top for an amateur like myself were time and money are not as important due to limited through put?

 

Kenneth

 

The difference between a professional and an amateur is that the former does something as their main source of income while the latter does it out of love (a little Latin is never wasted). It is often tempting to confuse a dilettante for an amateur, however, an amateur should be seeking to achieve the same standard as a professional - just for a different reward!

 

As an amateur I have used an Analyser Pro for some years. The benefits are significantly greater than the cost of acquisition. The saving in paper for test strips is substantial and the fine control over print tonality and appearance is outstanding. You do, however, have to invest time and effort to calibrate your Analyser to each paper/developer combination that you use to realise the full benefit.

 

If you are serious about producing prints that do justice to your camera and lens an Analyser Pro is a good investment.

 

A good source of advice and wisdom on this subject, which probably represents the most populus single source of users of RH Designs equipment, is FADU at:

 

FADU Redirect

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Andrew

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