colorflow Posted July 30, 2007 Share #1 Posted July 30, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I know many other forum members have already done so, but want to add my praises for John Milich. Sent him the flange of my Cron 35 ASPH less than two weeks ago, got it back today, a few drops of Testor model paint later the M8 is recognising the lens perfectly. This is more than two times faster and less than 1/6 the cost (including not having to pay the insurance for sending the entire lens to Leica). I don't see any reason to have Leica code any lens unless it is still in warranty. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 30, 2007 Posted July 30, 2007 Hi colorflow, Take a look here Milich M8 coding. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
hdrmd Posted July 30, 2007 Share #2 Posted July 30, 2007 I couldn't agree more. My dealings with JM have been quick and professional. DR Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 30, 2007 Share #3 Posted July 30, 2007 Same here - a while ago John machined six LTM to M adapters and just recently six M mounts from my 21, 35, 50, 90 and two 135's. Service and workmanship is impeccable. He's the only reason why my 1930's vintage 1.9/73mm Hektor displays as a 75mm lens on the M8! Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted July 30, 2007 Share #4 Posted July 30, 2007 Which M lenses cannot be done by unscrewing the mount, sending them to John, and putting them back on, ie. which have "things" attached to the back of them, and need to be handled by Leica? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 30, 2007 Share #5 Posted July 30, 2007 Which M lenses cannot be done by unscrewing the mount, sending them to John, and putting them back on, ie. which have "things" attached to the back of them, and need to be handled by Leica? Carsten, Basically any Leica lens which does not have the focusing helicoid cut into the lens mount and where the mount can be removed, can be coded by John. According to Leica, the 4/135mm Tele-Elmar cannot be coded..... I removed the mount and it is now coded. Coding as you know, is not important on a telephoto lens but for $25.00, why not? Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlm Posted July 30, 2007 Share #6 Posted July 30, 2007 thanks for the props...believe it or not, the most difficult part has been keeping flanges and orders straight and dealing with shipping. Also I have seen quite a surprising variety of flanges! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
voightL Posted July 31, 2007 Share #7 Posted July 31, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Do anyone know if the flange of CV35f1.2 & CV21f4Pll can be removed? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmk60 Posted July 31, 2007 Share #8 Posted July 31, 2007 Hi colorflow / Alan Thanks for the information. I would love to send mine to Jim but how should I remove the flange from my lenses? Any precautions? Appropriate tools to do the job? Thank you in advance Mashu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share #9 Posted July 31, 2007 Hi colorflow / Alan Thanks for the information. I would love to send mine to Jim but how should I remove the flange from my lenses? Any precautions? Appropriate tools to do the job? Thank you in advance Mashu On most M lenses (the newer ones) there are six screws that attach the flange to the lens and can be easily removed. No special precaution except, of course, don't strip the screw head. On mine they are not hard to unscrew. ALan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 31, 2007 Share #10 Posted July 31, 2007 Do anyone know if the flange of CV35f1.2 & CV21f4Pll can be removed? Thanks. Mikey, If there are screws holding the flange to the body of the lens, than the flange can be removed. The only caveat would be if the focusing helical threads were cut into the inside of the flange, than you would have to mark the exact position at which the flange and the mount separate. That way you can put everything back together correctly. I could not find a picture of the CV 21mm f4 PII to see the flange. The 35mm f1.2 looks like there should be no problem removing the flange. Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share #11 Posted July 31, 2007 Which M lenses cannot be done by unscrewing the mount, sending them to John, and putting them back on, ie. which have "things" attached to the back of them, and need to be handled by Leica? The older M lenses do not appear to have separate detachable flanges, at least on the ones I have - the pre-asph Lux 35, the Lux 50 v2, and the Elmarit 90 with the detachable Viso head. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 31, 2007 Share #12 Posted July 31, 2007 Hi colorflow / Alan Thanks for the information. I would love to send mine to Jim but how should I remove the flange from my lenses? Any precautions? Appropriate tools to do the job? Thank you in advance Mashu Just to add to Alan's post - make sure that you have a good set of tools. Do not work on Leica lenses with a cheap Chinese screwdriver set, get a proper set of Swiss jeweller's tools. Search the net for Micro Tools - suppliers of a variety of camera tinkerer's tools. Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 31, 2007 Share #13 Posted July 31, 2007 The older M lenses do not appear to have separate detachable flanges, at least on the ones I have - the pre-asph Lux 35, the Lux 50 v2, and the Elmarit 90 with the detachable Viso head. Alan Alan, The 'Lux 35mm has helical threads cut into the flange; I would not attampt to take it apart, same with the 50mm 'Lux. The original 90mm Elmarit flange can surely be removed, the screws are probably on the side of the lens, in the Vulcanite covering. I had coding recesses cut into the 4/135mm Tele-Elmar, which does not have any screws on the mating surface of the flange rather, the flange is held by set screws from side. Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 31, 2007 Share #14 Posted July 31, 2007 thanks for the props...believe it or not, the most difficult part has been keeping flanges and orders straight and dealing with shipping. John, Yes, I noticed the faint 'JD' on the side of my LTM to M adapters when they came back! Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmk60 Posted July 31, 2007 Share #15 Posted July 31, 2007 Thank you, Alan and Jan!! mashu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken R Posted July 31, 2007 Share #16 Posted July 31, 2007 Yes, the 35 nokton can be coded. JM did mine and it works great. Be aware though that one of the mounting screws for the flange falls under the code notches. This does not affect the re-mounting of the lens as the code notched do not go that deep. You simply paint the top of the screw (which is slightly recessed already) to the appropriate color. Works like a champ. I have had him do leica flanges for me and like the rest have said, the work is flawless!! It took 8 weeks for leica to turn around my 24mm for coding. Guess where I am sending the mount for the new (to me anyway) 90 apo.......... Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
voightL Posted July 31, 2007 Share #17 Posted July 31, 2007 Mikey, If there are screws holding the flange to the body of the lens, than the flange can be removed. The only caveat would be if the focusing helical threads were cut into the inside of the flange, than you would have to mark the exact position at which the flange and the mount separate. That way you can put everything back together correctly. I could not find a picture of the CV 21mm f4 PII to see the flange. The 35mm f1.2 looks like there should be no problem removing the flange. Best, Jan I do not have the lens yet. Found this photo of CV21f4 Pll. Do you think I will have problem? Thanks Jan. regards, Mikey Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/29983-milich-m8-coding/?do=findComment&comment=317298'>More sharing options...
doubice Posted July 31, 2007 Share #18 Posted July 31, 2007 I do not have the lens yet. Found this photo of CV21f4 Pll. Do you think I will have problem? Thanks Jan. regards, Mikey Mikey, It appears that the helical thread is cut into the inside of the flange. The flange can be removed (there are screws), but will have to be re-installed in exactly the same position so that focusing accuracy is not disturbed. Not too complicated if you have done this sort of thing before. If you don't mind the extra expense, let a repair shop remove the flange and and than re-install it, once back from John. Best, Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share #19 Posted July 31, 2007 Alan, The 'Lux 35mm has helical threads cut into the flange; I would not attampt to take it apart, same with the 50mm 'Lux. The original 90mm Elmarit flange can surely be removed, the screws are probably on the side of the lens, in the Vulcanite covering. I had coding recesses cut into the 4/135mm Tele-Elmar, which does not have any screws on the mating surface of the flange rather, the flange is held by set screws from side. Best, Jan Jan: I also have the 135 Tele-Elmar and will get it coded now that I have read your post. I sure wish the 35 Lux can be coded. Wonder if JM would do it as is??? Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
voightL Posted August 1, 2007 Share #20 Posted August 1, 2007 Mikey, It appears that the helical thread is cut into the inside of the flange. The flange can be removed (there are screws), but will have to be re-installed in exactly the same position so that focusing accuracy is not disturbed. Not too complicated if you have done this sort of thing before. If you don't mind the extra expense, let a repair shop remove the flange and and than re-install it, once back from John. Best, Jan Jan, thanks. I have not done it before so if I get the lens, I'll send to a repair shop. regards, Mikey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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