MPJMP Posted November 15, 2009 Share #1 Posted November 15, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) In another thread someone mentioned developing Tri-X in Diafine. I watched the instructional video at Figital Revolution and thought it sounded pretty easy, plus I liked the idea of shooting at ASA 800 or 1600. I ran a test roll this morning using the only model available to work on such short notice. I shot a mix at both 800 and 1600. I used Kodak Rapid Fixer and a final rinse of distilled water with Photo-Flo, as always. My first impression after putting the negs on my light table was that they seemed more "gray" than I am used to with D-76. No real dark blacks or snow whites, but I've heard that this makes for better scanning with a CCD scanner (like the Nikon Coolscan V I use). Shots 1 & 2 were at 800 and 3 & 4 were at 1600. I used auto curves and auto LCH in Nikonscan when importing. The 800 shot needed some levels adjustment in PS and was slightly overexposed, but as you can see was pretty easy to correct. The 1600 shots were all pretty much dead on. My test subject was full of motion, so being able to shoot at the higher ASA and use a faster shutter speed made a big difference in getting shots that weren't blurred. In short, I like Diafine and think I will start using this developer more frequently. I'm not 100% ready to give up my D-76 yet, but Diafine seems like a pretty foolproof product and to be able to shoot at 1600 is a major plus. We have a winner!! (all shots with my MP and 50mm 'cron) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/103797-tri-x-in-diafine-nice/?do=findComment&comment=1117229'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 15, 2009 Posted November 15, 2009 Hi MPJMP, Take a look here Tri-X in Diafine - Nice!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
nhabedi Posted November 15, 2009 Share #2 Posted November 15, 2009 Thanks for the report. The results seem to be convincing. So, are you thinking with Diafine you should always shoot Tri-X more like ISO 800 or 1600 with Diafine? Have you tried some shots at the nominal speed of ISO 400 to see how it's like? I seem to remember that the info at figitalrevolution.com is a bit confusing as at one point he talks about a usable EI of 800 to 1600 and then later says it's 400 to 1250... (I myself still haven't decided whether I should go back to developing films myself having done this for the last time ten years ago. But if I'll do it, I'll probably start with Tri-X and Diafine and I'm happy to read advice like this.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPJMP Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted November 15, 2009 Seeing as how 800 was a little on the light side, I would stay away from shooting 400. This means that from first frame to last you have to know you will be developing in Diafine. Although developing film can be fun, it is moderately time consuming and I still run into occassional problems with excessive dust, scratches and water spots. As nice as Tri-X looks when I get it right, if it were something really important that I wanted to guarantee came out perfect I would go for Ilford XP2 and let the local lab handle processing. At least until the day when I have perfected my technique, whenever that day comes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spwongra Posted November 15, 2009 Share #4 Posted November 15, 2009 Thanks for the photos - I'm about to try the same as soon as my D76 runs out, after reading the Figital Revolution. I've trained myself to be pretty accurate with the sunny 16 rule for 400 ASA, now I have to shift my thinking to 800 or 1600. One comment on the Figital Revolution was clarifying that you could change the ASA on the fly throughout the day for the same roll of film - you end up developing it all the same in any case: “for example, I am working with a film like Kodak TX-just load a roll in the morning and start shooting and adjust your USABLE or “flexible” EI as the day and lighting change” Whoa, am I reading this right? I load 400TX in my camera. Then for early dawn shots I use the camera as if I had 800 or 1250 in it, during daylight I use the camera as if I had 400 in it, and in the home at night with available light I use the camera again as if it was 800 or 1250 once again? In other words, I have tremendous flexibility with shutter speed and aperture because the film/developer combo has such latitude? on December 9, 2008 at 5:09 pm | Replyfigitalrevolution Yep your right on! Not all films have the usable EI range of TX but good film and Diafine are hard to beat. cheers- Stephen You could interpret that as versatile or as being sloppy with exposure. In any case I can't wait to try it. (re-read your original post, and it seems you did different EI's on one roll) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPJMP Posted November 15, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted November 15, 2009 Based on my ASA 800 shots and how easily I was able to correct for the slight overexposure in PS, I would guess he means that you can over and under expose and still have enough detail so that you can correct the exposure in post and it will come out looking "right." I also read on there that he uses an ND filter in daylight to compensate for the higher light sensitivity. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 15, 2009 Share #6 Posted November 15, 2009 If you do a forum search for "Diafine" you will turn up some nice examples from Oliver on the German forum. His username is Kodaktrix. I prefer Tri-X rated 400-1250. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPJMP Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted November 16, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you do a forum search for "Diafine" you will turn up some nice examples from Oliver on the German forum. His username is Kodaktrix. I prefer Tri-X rated 400-1250. Thanks for the tip, Andy. I ran that search and also turned up a bunch of your own very nice work developed in Diafine. Never realized it was your developer of choice. -Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bernd Banken Posted November 16, 2009 Share #8 Posted November 16, 2009 In preparation of a Nikon-buddy meeting in Prague I was a little bit confused what kind of film/developer I should use. The Nikons expanded the evening/night streetphotography by cranking the ISO to very high values, but my MP? So the Fuji Acros and Neopan became my first choice together with Diafine. Here some results: At first Acros 100 Balancing... on Flickr - Photo Sharing! and Neopan 400: .. on Flickr - Photo Sharing! and Leica lover in the dark on Flickr - Photo Sharing! All Isos as written on the box and scanned with a Cool VED. A member in the German forum @telewatt shoots his Jazz pics with Fuji and Emofin. That's another 2-bath developer. Very fine results of shooting in dim light of studios and stages. Cheers Bernd PS: Here a shot amongst others in very harsh light: Acros 100 Diafine Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/103797-tri-x-in-diafine-nice/?do=findComment&comment=1118354'>More sharing options...
MPerson Posted November 16, 2009 Share #9 Posted November 16, 2009 Never realized it was your developer of choice. -Mike It was Oliver's work that got me interested in Diafine a couple of years ago and after exchanging info, via the forum, I took the plunge. My other developers are Rodinal and HC-110 but first choice is Diafine. One piece of advice is to filter solution B occasionally, it develops crud but just filter with coffee filter paper and it is fine. If you don't you can get marks on the neg depending on your agitation method. My current batch is 13 months old now and due for retirement! A real winner is Plus-X rated 400 asa. My next film to try is with Eastman Double-X 5222. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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