rpopescu
Members-
Posts
110 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
That would be great!
-
Gordon @lucerne, and anyone else interested, I've received the half-case today and I really like it. It fits well, the leather looks fine. The edges are nicely burnished and painted, the stitch-work is precise. The bottom plate replacement works well, the magnet is reassuringly strong. The bottom of the case is made of aluminium with two cutouts, one for the battery/SD card compartment and the other for the screw that secures the case onto the body. This aluminium bottom is of course covered by leather and only visible in the actual cut-outs. The front grip looks small and it feels like it's made from a rubbery foam insert underneath the leather, but it actually does it job very well. After having spent a year with an SL and not having used my M3 since 2015, I was really used to the ability to hold the camera from its right side and letting it hang from my hand as I walk. Together with a Thumbie, this makes the M10 almost as comfortable to grip as the SL, but much lighter of course. Speaking of which... The case weighs 69g entirely including the screw (measured, I was told it weighs 75g, so a pleasant surprise). Since the baseplate is 49g (again, measured) this means the camera's only 20g heavier this way. I have to say I am very impressed. If you want some photos let me know.
-
So I received a reply from the store where I bought the lens saying that the adapter should work fine with the M10 and offered to calibrate the lens. I've tested it again today, focus seems just fine in the close to 7m range anyway. I'm not keen on sending it away so soon after I've just got it, to be honest.
-
Thanks Wattsy. My lens and adapter predate both the m240 and the 10, so the only thing mentioned is that the thing isn't compatible with the old CL. Regarding compatibility though my dual-range 50/2 won't even mount, while others report it sort of works. I would very much appreciate if anyone who has the goggle adapter and the M10 would chime in as well!
-
Do you have a way to test your adapter and lens on the M10? I think focusing actually is influenced: there are two goggle lenses, not just one, and I find it impossible for me to say whether the distance makes a difference or not because of this reason. I don't think that moving the magnifier/adjustment goggle lenses further or closer away makes virtually no difference, as the rangefinder patches come from both windows/goggle lenses. Has anyone used the adapter with the M10?
-
That's not true. Body size doesn't matter, but the distance between the outer part of the M mount and the rangefinder windows does, and it is different in the M3 and the M10, as far as I can see, by at least 2mm. I can upload photos as soon as I get to a computer as the phone camera ones, unresized, are far too large. Also the range/viewfinder is great across a number of lenses with the exception of a Summicron 28 at certain distances.
-
Why not, though? The adapter's lenses are a different distance away from the camera's rangefinder on the M10 vs M240, for example, because the mount flange isn't flat with the body on the M10. The lens focuses very well otherwise.
-
rpopescu started following Leica SL2- ? L Alliance , Which macro lens ? , Best half case for the M10 and 2 others
-
Does anyone find that the goggles adapter for the Macro Emarit 90/4 isn't working correctly on the M10? I focus with the rangefinder, and the photo shows the focus point behind where I aimed. Naturally using the evf works correctly. Could it be that the M10's slimmer body results in the adapter's lenses being in the wrong position? Thanks!
-
Hi Gordon, So you actually have one of these? What's your experience been like? Many thanks.
-
Does anyone have experience with the half cases from a UK seller called studentphotostore on the famous auction website? It can be found by searching for the item number 352329770116. They look very well made and finished, and they have a bottom place replacement with integrated tripod mount and magnetic battery door. They're also priced well. Any insight much appreciated. I don't know if I'm allowed to post a direct link - if I am, I shall.
-
rpopescu started following Leica APO-Summicron-SL 1:2/75 ASPH.
-
It doesn't only work when magnified, and I don't think it's particularly good on the TL2 either, which can also be seen from my comment about how it's better on the Q. My point was to distinguish between it not working at all, as in really not working, and working in a less than optimal manner. It's a crucial difference.
-
Can you possibly try again with the 23, magnify, and change focus slowly? I think the algorithm they use is much less aggressive than the one used in the Q, for instance, and many times things that are clearly in focus do not get the highlights as they should; for example, if I focus with a 50mm equivalent on a computer screen on black text on white background, it basically never shows up, but I can get it to show up on e.g. the seconds hand on my watch, or branches outside seen through half-open vertical blinds...
-
I for one tried many times to find anything concerning switching between EFV and LCD in the menus of the TL2, and came up empty, save for the function button setting. I remember seeing an EVF eye detection sensitivity option, but that must be on my Q. I noticed something else regarding the peaking: if you are shown red lines (edges) in a certain magnification, when changing magnification these may very well disappear, and then show up again when switching to the original magnification at which those edges appeared. Which leads me to the conclusion that the edge detection/peaking is applied to the zoomed image in fact, not to the full frame.
-
It feels like going against the grain here, but... I don't think it's likely that the lens choice has much to do with focus peaking working or not. Focus peaking is implemented with an edge detect image filter. This works in two dimensions based on the image that's obtained from the sensor (see footnote links). There are of course parameters that control the filter and quite a few different filters, but a longer / shorter / manual / auto-focus lens has no impact; the only thing that matters is what's in the frame, which is to say, subject and exposure. My TL2 with an M mount lens does peaking just fine. It doesn't detect certain edges I might have expected it to, if the contrast between these and the background is not significant, although I do see that those places are perfect focus. If checking on your camera TL/SL vs M lenses for peaking, make sure you have the correct setting in the menu (I have peaking + zoom, and I zoom to verify), and that you're looking at the same scene in the same light with the same exposure settings and focusing at the same spot. Since I only have manual M mount lenses, I cannot test manual focus & peaking on the TL2 myself, but it does work with random M mount lenses (I've just tried a pancake Voigtlander 2.5/35). I didn't have any issues with the EVF I've been using on the T on the TL2 (yet - the camera is barely out of the box!), but... just last week my T did misbehave with respect to detecting the EVF; it was automatically switching to the EVF via the eye sensor, but the EVF remained black. After some jiggling, removals and camera restart it worked again, thankfully, but it was pretty scary. Only 10 minutes later I have to edit this post: I do have an issue with the EVF on the TL2 - if I set the function button to Play or Video, it should switch between the LCD and the EVF based on the eye sensor, but it doesn't. I tried turning off and back on, removing etc. The EVF works fine if I set the function button to manually switch between the two, but it seems like the eye sensor is not recognised by the camera, or the EVF's sensor died. I cannot confirm right now by testing on my original T because it's battery's out, but will get back to this. Some 20 minutes later, the T's battery charged just enough to start for a minute, testing shows that the EVF's sensor works as expected on the T. So the TL, with the function button set to Play or Video, does not switch between the EVF and the LCD; I can switch manually if I set the function button to do that. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_peaking https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edge_detection