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What is the best flash system for my M8?

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You can't use an SB-400 on an M8. The SB-400 is a very specialised flash which achieves its low cost by removing all controls and assuming it is talking to a recent Nikon SLR.

 

As regards using the SB-800, you can use it on the M8 in auto mode but TTL flash metering is there for a reason, especially when you want to balance available light and fill-flash and for that, the SF-58 works well on the M8. The SB-800 and 900 are of course most at home in matrix-balanced-fill flash mode on a Nikon DSLR.

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I use an old Nikon SB 15. The head swivels for bounce or direct lighting. It's small, versatile and you can buy them cheap on eBay because they're useless on digital Nikons. The SB 15 compact profile looks and feels good on the M camera. Its looks like it was made for the M.

Edited by AlphAlphA

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Has anyone tried a Nikon flash on the M8? I have a Nikon SB400 which is a very compact unit that would fit the M8 nicely, but I have never dared try.

 

Has anyone elsed tested this?

 

Carl E

 

Nikon SB 15, compact, bounce head, simple to use & cheap to buy on eBay.

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I use an old Nikon SB 15. The head swivels for bounce or direct lighting. It's small, versatile and you can buy them cheap on eBay because they're useless on digital Nikons. The SB 15 compact profile looks and feels good on the M camera. Its looks like it was made for the M.

 

Thanks for the tip on the SB-15. Just got one off ebay for $25.50 total to try.

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Can you set the flash intensity manually on the SB-15? If so, it looks like a great deal.

 

I don't think you can adjust the manual flash output directly, but using the MD setting, or one of the two auto settings may give you the desired effect. Here's a link to a manual for the SB-15, perhaps this will help answer your questions better.

Nikon SB-15/17 - Instruction Manual

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Just thought I would show that you can use a Canon 430 EX on an M8.

BTW - you have to use it in manual mode and it will not fire about 1/250

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I use the SF 24D only when necessary as a fill flash. When shooting weddings I use the SF 24D and also use a SF 20 with an optical trigger, both set on manual. It works for me, but really took me some practice to get it right.

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Please have a look also to the Metz 54MZ with Adaptor 3502. It will give superb results with the M8.

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Guest mc_k

What would be the pros and cons of the Metz 45Cl-4? It's really the only flash I'm looking at. I heard you can't compensate in GNC. Is the bracket wide enough to fit on the M8? How come no one is using it?

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Agreed. This is what I use (54MZ-3 plus the M5 module, total cost $200). The TTL function is reasonably fast - and it works. There is no TTL exposure compensation, but there is auto-zoom if you use coded lenses.

 

I don't understand why people are hung up on:

 

(a) The SF-24D, which is fine for social situations but on the weak side;

 

(

The SF-58, which is absurdly expensive (and big);

 

© Nikon Speedlights that, though compatible from a ready-light/auto-synch standpoint, will never be able to use TTL (which is actually useful sometimes); and

 

(d) Canon Speedlites that are not much better on an M8 than a $50 Vivitar 283.

 

Dante

 

Please have a look also to the Metz 54MZ with Adaptor 3502. It will give superb results with the M8.

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Last night we had our community holiday party in our home and I was asked to shoot candids. OK, so I went to Sean Reid's review of the SF 58 and totally copied his approach when he was shooting a wedding. With the Nikon SC-28 cable running from the M9 hotshoe, handheld about 18 inches away bouncing on the ceiling, set at ISO 640, f8 and zoned at 8 feet, I was shooting without using the viewfinder. Sean was right on! I have not used flash for years and the results were wonderful.

 

Thanks Sean.

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natural light pics look great at a wedding but sometimes you need to make the images really pop and for that you need some flash. if you expect to shoot weddings regularly you might want to consider using flash off camera, which is a lot less difficult than it sounds. sometimes just the tiniest, barely detectable amount of flash can really enhance the final output. the sf24d is useful but hard to control when close up to your subject. it's low power output is useless for wider group shots. the sf58 gives you more control and functionality as it can be bounced and has front fill flash if you need it.

 

you really should try to learn some basic flash skills, it's not so hard to grasp and like anything else, takes just a little bit of trial and error and practice. you can create a basic, inexpensive lighting set up with one or two flash units (they can be any brand and don't have to be leica) off-camera on light stands, fired using a radio trigger in the camera hot-shoe. start to read here:

 

Camera Flash: Appearance

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so I went to Sean Reid's review of the SF 58 and totally copied his approach when he was shooting a wedding. With the Nikon SC-28 cable running from the M9 hotshoe, handheld about 18 inches away bouncing on the ceiling, set at ISO 640, f8 and zoned at 8 feet, Thanks Sean.

 

Ditto!

 

I've successfully used the Nikon SC-28 cord to use the SF-24D on the M8.

 

Made a trip to the hardware store and put together my hand strap for my SF-24D (left over from my Digilux 2) before Thanksgiving.

 

I shot indoors at Thanksgiving (ISO 160, Summicron 35mm at f/8, as Sean suggested), and was able to really play with where the light was going hand-held. Not totally satisfied with the results. But got my feet wet. (I sent Sean a thank-you message.)

 

Used the technique again during a recent workshop when I wasn't shooting f/1.2 with just ambient light. CV35 Nokton at f/8 in this case. The SF-24D was used hand-held (TTL-1/250th) to trigger the on-set strobes and also zing light into the scene selectively. I was the only off-bracket, off-camera, hand-held shooter at the event. (Many were Pro Canon Big Rig guys, some with Death Ray flash bracket/flash setups.)

 

I'm not convinced that the SF-24D has enough light output. . . . Going on what others have said and my own basic experience. But, then again, I haven't exactly figured out how I want to use it and what effect I want to see from it. Still playing with that. So, the verdict is out. (I'm trying to get flash-taken photos that don't obviously look like they were taken by adding in flash.) I do need to stick the thing on the end of a monopod and start working with it further than arm's length, probably. (I've misplaced my monopod, so no tests yet.)

 

The key is the technique--Sean does an excellent job of describing it on his site so I'm not going to hit that here. But I do recommend a read of that article, if you haven't.

 

Cheers,

Will

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