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Which way to compose with a 135mm on the M8?


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I made some empiric test on how an owner of a 135mm (mine is a Tele Elmar but I suppose the problem is the same with any other) can try to compose a picture on a M8/M8.2 without the precious help of the bright lines.

Here it is a picture I made with my 135 that shows in red line the almost exact space of the viewfinder patch related to the rest of an uncut picture:

 

3677528997_623c5f4075_b.jpg

 

I remember reading about other empiric methods some of the members and 135 owners on the forum adopted to compose. Given that even over rotating the lens to get 90 brightlines is useless since they are too much wide, I would like to know from those that ave been shooting this lens for a long time which is in their opinion the best way to compose a picture with it.

Any precious hints? Anybody found the "golden" method?

What about using a 135 viewfinder? (I could pic from the closet my old Zuiko revolver viewfinder that has the 135 window too... :cool:)

Well, any advice will be very appreciated.

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Your red line looks way to tall and not wide enough. on my M8's, and all M's that I can remember, the RF patch is close to 2/3 ratio

 

I use the 135 with eyes (goggles) and don't have this problem of framing. It brings up the 90mm framelines and the goggles (eyes) do the rest.

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Your red line looks way to tall and not wide enough. on my M8's, and all M's that I can remember, the RF patch is close to 2/3 ratio.

 

You're right shootist, it is more like this (checked again through the viewfinder):

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Enrico, The method I use for my recently acquired 135mm Tele-Elmar (wonderful lens) is that described by jaap, and probably others in another thread not too long ago.

 

Over rotate the lens to bring up the 90mm framelines, then 'average' the size of the patch and the framelines. in other words, halfway between the framelines and the patch rectangle is pretty damn close. Sounds a bit rough, but it works well for me. At least as accurate as the 75mm framelines on the M8. :eek:

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I had two 135mm Tele-Elmars, and never could get either one to focus correctly on two different M8's. I had DAG Camera Repair work on one of them, but even that didn't help, so I sold them both.

 

As far as composing was concerned, I found an old German Tewe zoom viewfinder and used it--setting it at 180mm focal length. It isn't an optical masterpiece, but it was pretty helpful in composing a shot. You can find one now and then--they should go for about $75-$100 US.

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I use the 135 apo telyt regularly and have had great results. I know that Jaap's "over twist" method works - but I never really fancied so when I had my 135 coded I got Leica to put on a mount that brings up the 90 framelines. This way I get the exif (which I find useful) and find framing (along the lines Erl outlines) no problem.

 

The example here was taken in the Wigmore Hall in London during the debut of a young Iraqi pianist Zuhal Sultan (a story in her own right... szuhalpno - Zuhal Sultan,Pianist ). Hand held at 1/90th. Tight framing really not a problem.

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The most complete approach is to change out the mount for the 28/90 version. Then code the lens as a 135/2.8 elmarit. The 90 mm frame line is slightly wider than the actual FOV even at infinity. I use the 90 frame as a reference and then try to position the subject (say a leading eye in a portrait ) on the edge of the rangefinder patch . This gets you close and the EXIF data shows a 135mm.

 

Calibration is very difficult (it took DAG 3 tries to get my 135 right). The difficulty normally comes in distance focus accuracy . Getting the closer focus is pretty easy but if you want the 135 to extend your reach with the M s ..then you need the full range.

 

You also will benefit from the 1.4X magnifier as its near impossible to focus without some magnifier. I stack the 1.25x and the 1.4X when testing.

 

This is one where you need to send your camera as even a small variance gets multiplied by the focal length.

 

Its worth it when the pieces come together.

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Getting the closer focus is pretty easy but if you want the 135 to extend your reach with the M s ..then you need the full range.

[...]

Its worth it when the pieces come together.

 

Fully agree with this - I was having major problems with one body and blaming myself - back to Solms it went and now both M8s work perfectly with the longer lens lengths and I have the luxury of a really portable trekking combination of the 28 cron asph + the 135 apo telyt. This is the best lens combination I've ever had for working with landscape / wildlife. I use an old Lowepro bumbag + a lens pouch on the same strap to carry the kit - always to hand but well protected from rocks and rain.

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