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davidada

30 x 40 inch M8 Prints

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indeed a conversation with Kit Laughlin about the SD14 puts me in the same mind

cameras without AA filters tend to be doubly sharp anyway, and less sharpening should be required.

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I use C1 with the softer setting. I never sharpen my master file. To prepare a file for delivery to a printer or a client I use PhotoZoom Pro ( it uses an 'S-spline' algorithm ) to enlarge the image using the photo soft or photo detailed profile depending on subject matter.

 

I will then apply sharpening sometimes locally more for some areas then others. Finally a bit of grain overall adds a bit of almost invisible tooth to the image and dithers any 'digitalness' in details. Grain has to be done at final size and after sharpening as you don't want to be sharpening and enlarging this essentially non-image artifact.

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This all sounds great, but, I'm afraid a little over my head. Is there a book you guys might recommend that includes printing large methods?

 

Thanks,

 

Mitchell

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Mitchell,

I cant claim any expertise as a printer, although I can suggest 'mastering digital printing' edited by Harald Johnson as a good place to start. To my mind not as authoritative as the colour management book from the same series, but useful none the less

Guy

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Oh--FWIW, I also use C1 for initial output, though I'm sure that doesn't matter as much as the uprez method. But I don't get "blotches" out of the M8 RAW convert, so that would help

 

Hey--I'm perfectly willing to admit I'm not getting the most out of my 5d shots! Still, I like to think I am

Are you doing anything special for the 5d shots?

 

I wonder how David A. likes printing from the M8 now its been out awhile?

 

I too find that C1 gets rid of the blotches that seem to occur with all digital images with fine foliage details. As far as sharpness goes, C1's output is a good bit better than ACR-4. But the interface is clunky and limited so I end up getting better high iso images from ACR-4.

 

On a subject where the light is good and low ISO is used, the M8 is coming within 5-8% of the ability of the 5D in terms of print quality. But once the light changes and the contrast drops or the ISO goes up, the 5D starts to pull away, especially when I compare the 5D/ 35 1.4L combo to the 28 Summicron on the M8.

 

The M8 is really good enough that for 70% of what I do, I will reach for it over the 5D for non-commercial work. It is a great little camera for sure!

 

As for David A? We never talk about gear, only all the other associated things that make a photo great such as people, places, approaches to story ideas, etc. So I really have no idea what he thinks of the M8 as of late..

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The big secret I have found with the M8 is to NOT oversharpen on conversion -- just a touch is all that's needed

 

Bingo! I have only had the M8 about 5 days so I am just getting used to it in terms of output, but it seems that I am getting better and better prints out of it the more I understand all the steps and how they differ from the other cameras I use.

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Bingo! I have only had the M8 about 5 days so I am just getting used to it in terms of output, but it seems that I am getting better and better prints out of it the more I understand all the steps and how they differ from the other cameras I use.

 

Not only that, you'll likely start to notice how non-digital or "organic" the M8 prints look compared to other cameras.

 

Gotta love it

,

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Hi all,

I have been busy lately and I am glad to see this thread goes on without my input!

Just returned from the Arles photo festival where many M8's were in evidence, great place to visit in July.

Last week in Edinburgh for a show of William Eggleston's works that I printed on the prototype Epson 11880, Bill had fun playing with the M8 and showing me the .9 canon lens on his rdp1.

I still prefer the M8 overall although my new Iphone does an excellent job !!

Best

David

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.....I have been busy lately and I am glad to see this thread goes on without my input.....

 

See what you started! And I blame this thread above all others for my M8 Black Hole Syndrome.

 

Seriously David, look in more please. You have particular skills that many of us would be delighted to learn from.

 

.......Chris

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Hi all,

I have been busy lately and I am glad to see this thread goes on without my input!

Just returned from the Arles photo festival where many M8's were in evidence, great place to visit in July.

 

David, did you by any chance run into Lucien Clergue while in Arles? He is a fine photographer and old friend, and I have been meaning to get back to Arles to visit him...

 

Cheers,

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David, did you by any chance run into Lucien Clergue while in Arles? He is a fine photographer and old friend, and I have been meaning to get back to Arles to visit him...

 

Cheers,

 

I did not run into Lucien, I did spend time with Francois Marie Banier and Lou Reed both M8 users!

Lou was having a ball using his brand new Noctilux shooting great low light portraits.

See Francois Marie's images in this weeks New York Magazine

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The big secret I have found with the M8 is to NOT oversharpen on conversion -- just a touch is all that's needed,

Cheers,

 

This does, as several have mentioned, all come back to the fact that the M8 isn't losing detail to the AA filter. As I mentioned in my second review of the camera last fall, there's a big difference between actual detail and the illusion of detail that is created by sharpening. Needless to say, the latter type of file also falls apart to a greater degree as print size increases - it becomes more and more obvious.

 

One doesn't need to sharpen what was never softened.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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One of the things I noticed with the M8 and Photokit sharpeners, was that whereas I'd use the output filters at 100% with the Canon 5D, I was pulling this back to about 70% with M8 files to avoid the files looking over sharpened.

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Took the plunge the other day and ordered a 30 x 40 inch print of one of my M8 shots.

 

I prepared the file myself using standard Photoshop tools to up-res to 300dpi, then some select sharpening on some edges (I have a short set of actions set up for this) I didn't add any additional noise - had a look but pulled back, nor use Alien Skin type tools.

 

Metro Imaging, who are round the corner from me, produced the C-Type print onto matt Fuji Crystal Archive paper. They're not the cheapest lab on the block, so I waited nervously to see what the end product looked like.

 

I was completed blown away. I am amazed how good it is - as people have commented like a medium format shot. I've had it mounted onto aluminium plate and now takes pride of place in my flat.

 

In fact, prior to this I had some shots enlarged to 30 x 20 by Metro Imaging. My very first thought when I saw the results - should have gone for 30 x 40!

 

Thus I can testify that the M8's file really do s t r e t c h well!

 

Phil

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I've had it mounted onto aluminium plate and now takes pride of place in my flat.

 

 

Phil

 

Phil,

 

Could you share details or photos on how the aluminum mounting is done?

 

Thanks!

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What should be the resolution (50...100..200..300....dpi of the photo file that is to be processed by the printer (Epson or whatever) ?.

Thanks

G.Kasturi

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What should be the resolution (50...100..200..300....dpi of the photo file that is to be processed by the printer (Epson or whatever) ?.

Thanks

G.Kasturi

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