First Noctilux f0.95 in Norway - sample images

[wattsy]

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The off-centre recomposition is simply a quirk of the lense (something I find with all fast lenses) - one of its charms, foibles and ideosyncracies. Thinking in planes can help, but easy it ain't.

 

Yes, but that was the point I was making. For the specific use I have in mind (off-centre portraits shot in the close range at F1 in normal light) it would be significantly easier to focus using a ground glass.

 

Incidentally, I don't dispute your point about the advantage of rangefinder focussing in low light (and good light) but this has nothing to do with the focus/recompose issue.

Edited June 9, 2009 by wattsy

[SJP]

Although slow to implement, if I have my maths sorted out the focus shift to get the object at the edge sharp is -8% on the M8. This assuming that the noctilux has a flat object plane of focus.

 

Example, if you focus on the object with the rangefinder (i.e. in the middle) and it is at say 2 m, then you need to tweak the focus ring to 1.84m and the object should be sharp at the edge of the frame after reframing.

 

If someone donates a new version noctilux I will be happy to demonstrate this & post the results here.

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[dfarkas]

So why are Leica raving about a filter adapter? (See their downloadable pdf about the Nocti.) Have they come to think that a filter adapter is something every Leica lens must have?

 

The old man who is still compos mentis.

 

Lars,

 

The adapter is an E60 to E82 to allow use of a circular polarizer on the new Noct. It is vented all the way around so you can see the effect through the viewfinder.

 

David

[mongrelnomad]

Hi Julian,

 

I agree with you that we should never sell anything unless we have to but, how are you going to decide when to use which lens as they are ideally the same lens?

 

tks

DL

 

Duly noted - but I guess I'll have to wait for mine to arrive to decide

[giordano]

Although slow to implement, if I have my maths sorted out the focus shift to get the object at the edge sharp is -8% on the M8. This assuming that the noctilux has a flat object plane of focus.

 

Example, if you focus on the object with the rangefinder (i.e. in the middle) and it is at say 2 m, then you need to tweak the focus ring to 1.84m and the object should be sharp at the edge of the frame after reframing.

 

If someone donates a new version noctilux I will be happy to demonstrate this & post the results here.

 

The "Barnack" depth of field calculator (Barnack) can display a "recomposition focus circle" which shows the zone in which an object you focus on will remain within the depth of field if you turn the camera to recompose. For the M8 with a 52mm lens at f/1 focused at 2m, using a 0.015mm CoC, this is a circle whose diameter is 50% of the width of the frame.

 

Depth of field is then about 32mm: according to "Barnack" you have to stop down to about f/4 before DoF is enough for the focus-and-recompose circle to cover the width of the frame.

[Daniel Leung]

Duly noted - but I guess I'll have to wait for mine to arrive to decide

 

mine came in last Thursday but have a little problem and they are sending it back and see how soon they can get me a new one. meantime, I have keeping my F1 for now

 

DL

[SJP]

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The "Barnack" depth of field calculator (Barnack) can display a "recomposition focus circle" which shows the zone in which an object you focus on will remain within the depth of field if you turn the camera to recompose. For the M8 with a 52mm lens at f/1 focused at 2m, using a 0.015mm CoC, this is a circle whose diameter is 50% of the width of the frame.

 

Depth of field is then about 32mm: according to "Barnack" you have to stop down to about f/4 before DoF is enough for the focus-and-recompose circle to cover the width of the frame.

I wasn't proposing stopping down which would solve all our (your not mine) noctilux problems but adjusting the focus to a new value after using the rangefinder to determine the "right angle" distance:

 

1) focus on your object

2) adjust the lens barrel to -8%

3) reframe and locate the object (still smiling) on the edge of the frame

4) click

 

No. 3 is the hard part:D