dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #61 Posted June 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you know the aperture you set it and you turn the speed ring with help of the arrows. Ah, thanks, for some reason I thought it was more complex. Then set the focus, framing and shoot. What could be easier. By the way, I am reading a book on exposure right now. Thanks Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 Hi dwind, Take a look here I'm sorry everybody, but I still need help !. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jeff S Posted June 4, 2009 Share #62 Posted June 4, 2009 Errr.. No Shut down auto-Iso Set shutter speed on dial Set aperture on the lens Twiddle until the arrows extinguish in the viewfinder (arrows indicate the rotation of the dial and ring) Red dot appears in the viewfinder. Exposure is set Note: Arrow lights with the red dot - exposure is compensated by 1/2 stop Arrow lights red dot extinguishes - exposure is compensated by 1 stop (or more as you turn further) Dennis...to help with your confusion, one additional step to above is to set dial to "M" for manual. In your earlier thread, you talked about setting to "A" (aperture priority). Just becaus you know aperture, don't touch that M setting, just set the aperture on the lens. Then you can look at the red dots, etc. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #63 Posted June 4, 2009 There is no "M"on the dial..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #64 Posted June 4, 2009 Ah, thanks, for some reason I thought it was more complex. Then set the focus, framing and shoot. What could be easier. By the way, I am reading a book on exposure right now. Thanks Dennis You got it :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted June 4, 2009 Share #65 Posted June 4, 2009 There is no "M"on the dial..... I must still be asleep (time zone here)...meant to say shutter speed. My point was to get him off setting to A. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #66 Posted June 4, 2009 I must still be asleep (time zone here)...meant to say shutter speed. My point was to get him off setting to A.Jeff I think I understand. Now, for a lot of practice. I've learned more from this brief conversation than you can imagine. Is this worth a faq or sticky 'Guide for beginners' Thanks everyone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #67 Posted June 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I must still be asleep (time zone here)...meant to say shutter speed. My point was to get him off setting to A.Jeff I agree. A must stand for "afterthought" Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted June 4, 2009 Share #68 Posted June 4, 2009 I agree. A must stand for "afterthought" ...now, that would be an interesting firmware update. Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #69 Posted June 4, 2009 Just as gesture of my success with this new technique, here is a picture I took this morning (not a special one but it demonstrates the point). 160, f6, 1/250th 24mm Emarit ASPH Using auto everything I am pretty sure this would have been a problem first off, and this was my first attempt (really). I have not made any adjustments in PS apart from resizing. Just a thought - the starburst of the suns refection on the car trim and the purple halo - is this a result of a lens problem? Best Guy Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/86689-im-sorry-everybody-but-i-still-need-help/?do=findComment&comment=921245'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #70 Posted June 4, 2009 I guess you used ACR. Try C1 version 4.8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 4, 2009 Share #71 Posted June 4, 2009 {snipped}Just a thought - the starburst of the suns refection on the car trim and the purple halo - is this a result of a lens problem? Guy--yes, but all lenses / optical systems have this problem--it's called flare. You're shooting into the sun Also, the chrome reflects the sun at the same intensity as the sun itself, more or less. So the starburst pattern is affected by the aperture blades in your lens. If you want to try to minimize flare when shooting into backlight, shade the lens with your hand. Even with a lens hood stray direct sun will give you artifacts. And as long as you're shooting something like the chrome reflecting direct sun, you will mostly get a burned-out highlight with some lens artifact as well. BTW--many many Leica lenses respond much better to flare conditions than other brands, however, some of the older designs are especially prone to flare. That's not necessarily a bad thing, though... you can use if for effect if you're good (or lucky, or both). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #72 Posted June 4, 2009 hello jaapv again! Actually I used C1 4.8 trial to convert this one - is there something I have missed ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #73 Posted June 4, 2009 No - that is the best one for purple edges - but it is as you say an impossible light.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted June 4, 2009 Share #74 Posted June 4, 2009 hello jaapv again! Actually I used C1 4.8 trial to convert this one - is there something I have missed ? I have tried and tried C1, all version since the M8 came out, and just do not like it. On some images it looks OK, even better then ACR, but in final print I like the results I get from ACR better. I have one M8 DNG file that the newest version of C1 doesn't see it is from a M8 and when I apply the M8 profile the colors are all screwed up. Now this was a older image when using firmware 1.201 but other images from that same day are OK. In ACR all images are seen as M8 DNG's. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #75 Posted June 4, 2009 One man's favourite tool may be rubbish in the hands of somebody else. I have the same effect with Lightroom. I've tried and tried and it just doesn't work for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wstotler Posted June 4, 2009 Share #76 Posted June 4, 2009 By the way, I am reading a book on exposure right now.Thanks, Dennis Dennis--that's the right move! It took really reading about it in several texts specifically about exposure for me to really understand it. It seems so straightforward--and it is, once really understood. Nevermind that. Reading = Good Idea. Thanks! Will Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #77 Posted June 4, 2009 Dennis--that's the right move! It took really reading about it in several texts specifically about exposure for me to really understand it. It seems so straightforward--and it is, once really understood. Nevermind that. Reading = Good Idea. Thanks! Will The current book is "The better guide to exposure" by Sean Arbabi I also picked up Digital Photography MasterClass - Tom Ang Kodak Guide to 35mm photography - The photographers manual - John Freeman Photography - a practical guide - Alisa McWhinnie, Phillip Andrews Thanks Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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