jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #41 Posted June 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Yes - and I'll amend. With fast lenses wide open: expose-focus-frame-shoot. You need to keep the time that you can move your head inadvertently thus upsetting the focus as short as possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 4, 2009 Posted June 4, 2009 Hi jaapv, Take a look here I'm sorry everybody, but I still need help !. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #42 Posted June 4, 2009 Yes - lock the exposure on the area that you want to take the exposure from, then reframe. You will need to keep the shutter button half depressed in order to lock the exposure. Only on A, Andy.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #43 Posted June 4, 2009 so on manual you do not lock? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #44 Posted June 4, 2009 No, you cannot.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #45 Posted June 4, 2009 sorry - just to be clear you cannot (or it will not work if you do) lock using manual ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #46 Posted June 4, 2009 No. But you can seethe advisory arrows changing Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted June 4, 2009 Share #47 Posted June 4, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Obviously only on Auto. On Manual, you have already locked the exposure, because you have set it yourself. I won't change when you recompose, unless you change it yourself. It's why it's called "manual" Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #48 Posted June 4, 2009 jaapv - we are having the classic John Cleese just missing conversation! Are these correct statements? 1. Using manual there is no point in locking the exposure and then reframing as as a function it does not work, i.e. the exposure is not locked. (IN MANUAL). 2. The advisory arrows, which indeed do change when you reframe, should be ignored or acted upon by changing the aperture. 3. If you ignore them the subject you metered on in the first place will correctly exposed, but other areas may not be. 4. If you react to them the subject you metered on may be over or under exposed, but the rest of the picture as a whole will be okay. Thanks ! Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #49 Posted June 4, 2009 DUH ! I am so thick today Andy has confirmed this! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted June 4, 2009 Share #50 Posted June 4, 2009 The exposure IS locked in manual, because you have locked it yourself. YOU are telling the camera what to do, and it will do what you tell it to. If you manually set the exposure for 1/1000 at f16, it matters not to the camera whether you are in a coal mine or on top of Mont Blanc. The exposure will be the same - but, in my example, probably incorrect in both locations Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted June 4, 2009 Share #51 Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) Unless of course, you have Auto-ISO on. In which case the camera might ignore your wishes completely if your Imp is in a bad mood. Edited June 4, 2009 by Nicoleica Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wlaidlaw Posted June 4, 2009 Share #52 Posted June 4, 2009 I find that Auto-ISO and A is only a problem with wide angle lenses and I am guessing it is because the sky or light coloured ceiling influences the exposure disproportionately. Auto-ISO and A works brilliantly with the MATE. OK from time to time, you will see a shutter speed in the VF and think "that can't be right" or you see it is too dark if you chimp (always remembering to take your dark sunglasses off). It is nearly always an underexposure, so generally I will point the camera at a darker bit of the scene or people I am taking, lock the exposure and re-frame. I find a Mini-Softie helps this process enormously. Mind you underexposing on the M8 never seems a big problem, as there is always so much detail you can pull out of the shadows. Auto-ISO, A and the WATE seems not to work perfectly but on the other hand who wants to go back to carrying around a spot meter with them. A and fixed ISO seems OK. I have a Polaris spot meter and it is gathering dust in a drawer 99%+ of the time. I am however enjoying using a Voigtlander VC11 on my M4. I might put the VC11 on my M8 for a while and see how the exposures compare. Wilson Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 4, 2009 Share #53 Posted June 4, 2009 But for the sake of clarity, let's just call auto-ISO another auto mode entirely. It's not manual, even if you're set to M It's useful for holding a shutter and aperture combo in very dramatically changing light, but otherwise it actually hinders your ability to tweak quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #54 Posted June 4, 2009 Let me see if I understand how to do this. Set ev to 0. Set Aperture on the dial set the aperture on the lens Find the spot you want to expose for note the shutter speed in the view finder set this shutter speed on the dial find the spot you want to focus set to and set the focus find the framing you want press the shutter key Is an alternative when you find the exposure spot to hold the shutter key half way - is this what is meant by locking the exposure? Thanks Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehouseflogger Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share #55 Posted June 4, 2009 perhaps we should copyright this thread and ask leica to insert it in their user manual! It has been so useful for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #56 Posted June 4, 2009 The start of a book. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #57 Posted June 4, 2009 Let me see if I understand how to do this.Set ev to 0. Set Aperture on the dial set the aperture on the lens Find the spot you want to expose for note the shutter speed in the view finder set this shutter speed on the dial find the spot you want to focus set to and set the focus find the framing you want press the shutter key Is an alternative when you find the exposure spot to hold the shutter key half way - is this what is meant by locking the exposure? Thanks Dennis Errr.. No Shut down auto-Iso Set shutter speed on dial Set aperture on the lens Twiddle until the arrows extinguish in the viewfinder (arrows indicate the rotation of the dial and ring) Red dot appears in the viewfinder. Exposure is set Note: Arrow lights with the red dot - exposure is compensated by 1/2 stop Arrow lights red dot extinguishes - exposure is compensated by 1 stop (or more as you turn further) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptarmigan Posted June 4, 2009 Share #58 Posted June 4, 2009 Ever used a spot meter? It's an interesting experience. Find the lightest and darkest parts of the 'scene'. Determine how many stops are in between. If this 'range' is outside what the camera sensor is capable of recording you need to decide what's more important - highlight or shadow detail. Or of course take several exposures and combine them. I found spot metering, especially multi-spot very useful in understanding how this exposure business works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwind Posted June 4, 2009 Share #59 Posted June 4, 2009 Thanks Jaap, but I'm a little confused. If I already know the aperture I want to set then all I want to do I adjust the shutter speed correct. I thought I could find the spot I want to adjust exposure for and look at the speed in the view finder. How does this differ from using the arrows and red dots? Wouldn't they be the same? Thanks Dennis Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted June 4, 2009 Share #60 Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) If you know the aperture you set it and you turn the speed ring with help of the arrows. Fast and simple and you see and feel (count the clicks!) exactly where and how much. If you go about it like you suggest you have to take the camera from your eye, fiddle around and generally lose the shot. It is better if you want to stay in A to lock the exposure with a half-press. But then you cannout compensate except through the menu, and you have very little control. Basically the M8 is clearly conceived for full manual like the M6, and the A is added as a concession to the market. It is about as useful as the S mode..... Edited June 4, 2009 by jaapv Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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