JHAG Posted May 14, 2009 Share #21 Posted May 14, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Wouldn't dare do try this on a new or recent lens. You ruin its value by doing this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 14, 2009 Posted May 14, 2009 Hi JHAG, Take a look here Lens coding with a Dremel - notes. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Fotogo Posted May 15, 2009 Share #22 Posted May 15, 2009 Wow, that came out really nicely! Kudos. I must agree. What a marvelous job Rich. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichC Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share #23 Posted May 15, 2009 Cheers Hel-Stampes, and Tim - your Coder Kit makes a brilliant template for permanent coding! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hahaha Posted February 19, 2012 Share #24 Posted February 19, 2012 Hi Rich, Followed your instruction and coded my 11309 Cron and 15mm Heliar succesfully. I first marked the side of a Leica coded lens with lines at the place of the bits. Then attached it to my M8 and continued the lines on the metal fitting on the body. Then I changed the lens for the uncoded cron and used the lines on the body to mark the side of the cron. Then removed the lens and continued the line on it's inside. A bit of a hassle but after the dremel and paint treatment both lenses were recognised immediately. Thanks for your advise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted February 19, 2012 Share #25 Posted February 19, 2012 I have a dremel machine setup and I am still not brave enough to cut the necessary detentes. Now you know my limits. All such work is going to Leica USA (or to whomever they forward it.) Making up for a millimeter mistake would cost me a whole new Solms base. I shall leave it to them. == Pico - who wishes he were the machinist he would be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichC Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #26 Posted February 19, 2012 Well, the worst that could happen would be an ugly lens - assuming the glass is well protected from a Dremel that slips out of control! <grin> Actually, using an accurate template, it's an easy straightforward job for anyone with reasonable eye-hand coordination... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
WestMichigan Posted February 19, 2012 Share #27 Posted February 19, 2012 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well, the worst that could happen would be an ugly lens - assuming the glass is well protected from a Dremel that slips out of control! <grin> Actually, using an accurate template, it's an easy straightforward job for anyone with reasonable eye-hand coordination... Which completely rules me OUT! :-D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted February 19, 2012 Share #28 Posted February 19, 2012 (edited) Very neat work, but unless I'm missing something you only need to cut enough pits for those that would be painted black, similar to using a pen for temporary coding. MODERATORS: this post is of more general interest. Should it be moved to the Customer forum? Edited February 19, 2012 by MarkP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichC Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share #29 Posted February 19, 2012 Very neat work, but unless I'm missing something you only need to cut enough pits for those that would be painted black, similar to using a pen for temporary coding. Without pits the marks are erased or smeared easily when mounting and unmounting the lens - not surprisingly, the gap between the mount faces is minimal, and for some lenses, like my pre-aspherical Summiluxes, dry marker pen coding never worked once because it smeared immediately on mounting. Hence the pits... I'm a photographer and need to use my lenses, so being without them whilst Leica coded them wasn't on option. Not to mention the high cost for a trivial job. (There are now places other than Leica who can add the pits using a milling machine - but these didn't exist when I modified my lenses. Also, despite these technicians being faster and cheaper than Leica, it still means being without lenses for a while. And we don't care about the cosmetics and value of our lenses anyway because they're just tools used to make pictures, no different to a painter's brushes... right?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkP Posted February 19, 2012 Share #30 Posted February 19, 2012 Without pits the marks are erased or smeared easily when mounting and unmounting the lens - not surprisingly, the gap between the mount faces is minimal, and for some lenses, like my pre-aspherical Summiluxes, dry marker pen coding never worked once because it smeared immediately on mounting. Hence the pits... I'm a photographer and need to use my lenses, so being without them whilst Leica coded them wasn't on option. Not to mention the high cost for a trivial job. (There are now places other than Leica who can add the pits using a milling machine - but these didn't exist when I modified my lenses. Also, despite these technicians being faster and cheaper than Leica, it still means being without lenses for a while. And we don't care about the cosmetics and value of our lenses anyway because they're just tools used to make pictures, no different to a painter's brushes... right?) I'm sorry Rich, I may not have explained myself properly. I fully understand the problem with using temporary black markings. I have the same problem with my temporarily pen-coded lenses. Drives me up the wall compared with the convenience of my coded Leica lenses. I plan to code these with the Dremel. My point was that don't you only need to drill the pits where the coding colour is black? Regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_Johnson Posted February 20, 2012 Share #31 Posted February 20, 2012 My point was that don't you only need to drill the pits where the coding colour is black? Regards, Mark That's true Mark. There's no need to use white paint when coding unless a pit/slot has already been milled. Cya, Johnny 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wosim Posted December 28, 2012 Share #32 Posted December 28, 2012 Many thanks for the description! Today I successfully coded my first lens with a Dremel / Proxxon, the Voigtländer Nokton 1.4 40mm as a Leica Summilux 1.4 35mm Asph. It was a lot easier than I imagined. Ok, you need a steady hand and a bit of time (30 minutes), but it's worthwhile. Here you can find the description, what I did: https://sites.google.com/site/wosims...adremelproxxon Not the prettiest job, but for the first time ... ... and a non Leica lens ... ... i am satisfied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted December 28, 2012 Share #33 Posted December 28, 2012 Well done. Simple slots are enough generally (CV 21/4). Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/84637-lens-coding-with-a-dremel-notes/?do=findComment&comment=2199933'>More sharing options...
jaques Posted December 29, 2012 Share #34 Posted December 29, 2012 hmmm, even if it is not necessary to do the white ones... it looks better and seems right. If I did this (and I plan to) I would/will do the white ones also.... I just replaced a battery on my iphone 3gs. If you watch a video of the process on youtube you could be somewhat daunted... there are quite a few small screws- some little ribbon cables, and other seemingly tricky and deft maneuvers... But, just like climbing a mountain: what can seen complex and impossibly dangerous at the start- is actually quite straightforward and manageable when broken down into the small steps that take you to the top. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaclarkaus Posted January 21, 2013 Share #35 Posted January 21, 2013 What paint works best, or do you just use a sharpie as it wont wear off as much as if you just marked the flange? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lct Posted January 21, 2013 Share #36 Posted January 21, 2013 Just a sharpie AFAIC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thighslapper Posted January 21, 2013 Share #37 Posted January 21, 2013 I can't see the point on doing the white ones ..... Just more chances of cocking up ..... I have omitted then on all my self coded lenses. In those with two (or) three adjacent blacks I have joined them into one large pit. Still looks neat and tidy..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjornthun Posted February 11, 2013 Share #38 Posted February 11, 2013 My first post here. I try to code a lens,but it seems to take repeated (many) tries to get the M8 to read the code. My suspicion is that the black pen I use isn't good enough. The black is to reflective or doesn't cover the metal well enough on a grooved Zeiss lens 21/2.8 which brings up the 28mm frameline. What type or brand of pen is needed or do I have to use black paint. I use the lens coder template. "Sharpie" is mentioned but I've not seen that brand in Norway, where I live. Thanks for any help here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted February 11, 2013 Share #39 Posted February 11, 2013 Bjørn, I haven't fund one here in Norway that works. So I source Sharpies from the US. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Marker-Point-Black/dp/B000I0TZO4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1360616571&sr=8-7&keywords=sharpie+markers Cheers, Carl 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjornthun Posted February 12, 2013 Share #40 Posted February 12, 2013 Bjørn,I haven't fund one here in Norway that works. So I source Sharpies from the US. Something like this Amazon.com: Sharpie Permanent Marker, Fine Point, Black, Pack of 5: Office Products Cheers, Carl Thanks! Pens have been ordered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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