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Your low light tricks


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Thank for the sniper tip.

Steve

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As far as low light tricks is concerned this is my record so far 1 second hand held, 28/2 ASPH at f/2, ISO 1250. Not sure if can repeat this and no rifle shooting experience I am afraid:D

 

3166093927_825e955054_m.jpg

 

larger size here http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1072/3166093927_825e955054_b.jpg

 

This is one of our 'new' cats Mischa that we are taking care of as the original owner died from cancer last January. Mischa was very anxious (still is with strangers) and spent the best part of 6 weeks hiding in our central heating cupboard as shown here. He is now also known as the 'kastkat' (cupboard-cat).

Edited by SJP
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Am I allowed to introduce tripods into the list of possible solutions to solving low light challenges? I know in many situations a tripod is not feasible, but often it is possible. Even the Leica table tripod or a Gorillapod are worth having for low light situations.

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Am I allowed to introduce tripods into the list of possible solutions to solving low light challenges?

 

Miguel did so in post #54. I also occasionally use Leica table pod as chest pod with smaller Manfrotto ball head for easier transport. And, when tripod isn't available, I do a shortened version of Lar's technique, i.e., raise camera from its position over my right shoulder, bring to my eye, but also loop strap around my left wrist to create tension.

 

Having said this, having an M9 that works better in low light would be a delight.:)

 

Jeff

 

Jeff

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Exposing correctly is certainly the trick with the M8. ISO 640 with a fast lens will get you a lot of mileage; things like this are possible in quite low light (1/60@f/1.4@ISO 640, and yes, the light really was that color!)

 

But even when you have to underexpose, the defects can be interesting if you process them well. I like the gritty feeling of this one, even though there is quite strong banding. It was essentially totally dark when this was taken - the exposure is 1/4@f/1.4@ISO 1250, and it was still WAY underexposed - I had to bring it up significantly in Lightroom. There was something that looked like a 15-watt bulb a fair distance from the subjects and that was basically it. At this shutter speed Lars' trick doesn't do much good - the subject motion is your biggest issue. Here I got very lucky and it contributed interest to the photo.

 

I've been looking at my M8's banding behavior recently and I think it's worse than it used to be; it also occurs consistenly in a few specific locations. I think there may be something wrong with the sensor.

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I just thought of a trick I learned from my father: the string tripod. Carrying around a real tripod or monopod can be a bore, but stick a piece of string in your pocket and you're halfway home.

 

For those who don't know the trick: attach a string to the loop in the closing thingy in the bottom of your M8 (that's the point where bottom and camera are really "one"). You could make a ring to screw in the hole for the tripod mount, but that would be an extra thing to take with you. Make the string long enough so the camera can be held in front of your face and make loop at the bottom end to stick your foot in. When you put some tension on the string, you are stable. It still gives you all the freedom of movement.

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btw, Lars could you shoot with two M8s pony express style and still easily change lenses?

The point of using two cameras simultaneously would be either to obviate lens changes of course (and I own only one M8) or because the cameras are for different kinds of film (not relevant). I do not switch lenses much. I zoom with my feet. But the question might be valid. The truth is that I don't know. I will sign off now and do an experiment with the M8 and my M4.

 

The old man from the Age od the Steyr SSG

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Miguel did so in post #54. I also occasionally use Leica table pod as chest pod with smaller Manfrotto ball head for easier transport. And, when tripod isn't available, I do a shortened version of Lar's technique, i.e., raise camera from its position over my right shoulder, bring to my eye, but also loop strap around my left wrist to create tension.

 

Having said this, having an M9 that works better in low light would be a delight.:)

 

Jeff

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff!

I've been using for a long time the leica table tripod with the modern leica ball head, but recently my father gave me one of his old leica ball heads. This one is shorter than the modern one and one feels so comfortable with the tripod over the chest and is easier to transport.

The advantage of this method is that you can shoot without tension. Just relax looking for a shoot, easy to frame and always ready for the right moment.

15years ago I started with nikon cameras. I couldn't afford Leica. My father had Leica M and he showed me this method. So the small leica table tripod was my first Leica Item .:)

Images from Leica web

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All right, the test is done. Yes, you can carry two cameras 'Pony Express style' and use strap support for both of them. But as you take up the camera which has its strap below the other one, you must pass the camera up inside the loop of the upper camera's strap, so that the straps do not cross below your left lower arm. That would make the non-use camera weigh down on the strap of the one you are using.

 

This does sound complicated, but it isn't. Just go through the movements a couple of times. It becomes perfectly natural to think of freeing the camera for action. Maybe when I have a M8 and a M9 ...

 

The old man from the Age of the Steyr SSG (7.62x51mm)

 

P.S. The table tripod trick is an ancient Leica standard. It worked fine with e.g. the 13.5cm Hektor, which had its own tripod bushing, but with modern artillery, you do really need a shorter ballhead. And the 'chain tripod' (Kettenstativ) enjoyed some limited popularity during the 1930's and was a commercial item, but it did soon go out of fashion. Both of course suffer from the same drawback: Another item to carry around. The strap is always there. O.M.

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but recently my father gave me one of his old leica ball heads. This one is shorter than the modern one and one feels so comfortable with the tripod over the chest and is easier to transport.

 

Yes, I was aware of older, smaller head, but couldn't find one. So, I got the Manfrotto version...just as small and works same way. (The Manfrotto table pod is actually much lighter than Leica's, but the Leica pod is a better fit better for me.)

 

I agree with Lars, though, that I don't like carrying extra gear, so more often than not I use my strap technique...a modified version of the one described by Lars...when I'm too lazy to carry the pod.

 

Jeff

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On the topic of monopod's - even without actually being fully extended a momopod can add a lot of stability, even just attached, it ads "leverage arm" to the camera, which immediately reduce micro vibrations. it is more effective if extending the top link, so the weight of the rest of the tubes are as far away from the camera as possible..

 

This have worked well for me when required to move quickly and alternating between vertical and horizontal images, and is compact enough to move quickly in crowded scenes.

 

.

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A novel approach to low light would be to try the Olympus EP1 using leica glass, I am very impressed with the noise quality of this camera. This shot was 60th at 1.4 using 50mm summilux @ 2500 ISO in a fairly dark studio

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Of course it doesn't, I agree, Mani. I meant to say that I cannot imagine any editor worth his job judging an image on technicalities over content and artistic merit.

 

 

As a Picture Director of one of the biggest mags in the UK I can tell you sadly more often than not the readers don't like grainy high contrast images, I think the clean digital age has a lot to answer for because of this, but certainly there is a limit to the noise I would see as acceptable in an image that I would edit to be printed. You can argue until you are blue in the face about peoples understanding of grain in photography, but the public are the ones who buy magazines & papers etc and they simply don't have as much understanding and interest in it to make it worth while risking using a high grain shot. I have had photographer supply me high iso colour files from an M8 from a studio session and to be honest anything above 3/4 page will looked plain nasty compared to the results you would get from someone shooting on a 5D/1DS/D3 etc, digital colour grain/noise is never nice when printed and can only pass in B&W.

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