rob_x2004 Posted October 20, 2006 Share #1 Posted October 20, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) What tests do people do to rate their B&W film for scanning and then printing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 20, 2006 Posted October 20, 2006 Hi rob_x2004, Take a look here ISO tweaking for scan B&W negs. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
christer Posted October 20, 2006 Share #2 Posted October 20, 2006 I have some, but not much, experience with scanning b+w silver film negatives. I find negatives eaiser to scan if they are on the thin side, rather than on the dense side. Thus I would neither overdevelop nor overexpose the film. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_r_smith Posted October 20, 2006 Share #3 Posted October 20, 2006 Rob thus far I have not treated my B/W shooting exposures for scanning any differently than I did in the past for wet darkroom work. This is because I have used a pro lab for film processing and scanning as an all in one package, and I assume that they know what they are doing. So far this confidence seems to have been justified, and the negs look good and the TIFF scans print easily with very little work being needed to levels and contrast - I would say actually there is less work involved in getting a good print than there would have been in the darkroom. However, that is not to say that things could not be improved if one were to make some trials with different ratings, developers and so forth. I shall be interested to see what others think. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 20, 2006 Share #4 Posted October 20, 2006 rob.. i think of b/w only by the needs of darkroom print. so all the exposure, development times methods etc are to the needs and wishes i have from the darkrrom print. but for scanning... i make a real direct scan from the scanner - any scanner - my scanner at home or top post production scanners. direct scan = what u see on light table is what u scan. transparent-->possitive. now i will have a full range of the film.. from here i bring the file (actually the RAW data or the HDR file) into the silverfast HDR48 studio processor and there i convert it to negative mode with full control in the conversion itslef with the NEGA-FIX. note, i dont use the pre-defined negative profiles... i calibrate the conversion myself... and then make the needed tonal adjustments with the gradation curves... that is it. the only film that prooves to be difficult to be scanned is the fuji neopan1600. also, since i make the films like pan-f to be great looking in the darkroom - it is true that on scan they look naturally less contrasty while in the darkrrom it is perfect. this is because of the very thin film which is printed very contrasty but scanned differently. but again - no problems with the silverfast generally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share #5 Posted October 20, 2006 Victor, interesting approach. Have you as an exercise, used the scan profiles for negative and run a positive to see what differences you find. Will give it a go myself with something in difficult light. I've only ever used the scanners pre set neg settings. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 20, 2006 Share #6 Posted October 20, 2006 rob i understand that u say the following: when i have the b/w film in positive mode (so that the pic looks negative as on light table) - is it advantage to add the scanner profile in that case??? ya - i have tried it - but not a big deal i have to say. cause when u convert it to negative mode (so that the pics will look like it should be printed) u have to calibrate the nega-fix anyway.. so the scanner profile is not so infuencial. but if u r really serious and have very good calibration (with it8) then it is of some advantage (but still far from the importance of nega-fix work). in hard lighting condition i recomend to make the RAW/HDR scan in 48bit color mode. when converting to negative mode keep the 24 color mode and simply dis-aturate it. now u will have more info from your scanner for the problematic lighting or "problematic" film. u can disaturate completly or u can disaturate at say -40 to -48 and then make it even with toning with the global color correction in the silverfast. experiment with it... anyway - soon i will upload the b/w scanning techniques to my website with samples and detailed discriptions of workflow. anyway - regarding scanner profile.... if for example the full workflow of oXYgen is used (with creo scanner) then it is more important to use the scanner profile. it is good since creo made a very unqique and amazingly good scanner profiles for their scanners and oXYgen and that includes also the unique three channal grey profile (48bit grey). amazing results of course.. but with my discription with silverfast u can come close to it (of course with the diffarance of scanner quality - creo is simply one of the best scanners u can get - very few sscanners reach it s quality). Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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