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M9 Concept sketch - traditional approach


thrid

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i think a left situated VF has some advantages

shooting right eye puts the nose at the left edge of the camera, shooting left eye you turn your head (which doesnt feel natural for a centreline OVF)

 

there really ought be a difference in which eye you use, as the eyes are directly connected to the opposite side of the brain, one will have an artistic/composition component that the other will not.

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there really ought be a difference in which eye you use, as the eyes are directly connected to the opposite side of the brain, one will have an artistic/composition component that the other will not.

 

Actually, the "wiring" of the optical and visual perception system in humans is 'WAY more complex than simplistic left/right:

 

File:Gray722.png - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Optic nerves cross over (but not all) at the optic chiasma, and are also cross connected via the superior colliculus (eye motor nerves/feedback) and the corpus callosum: Corpus callosum - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Also note that the left and right visual fields are split differentially.

 

Cut some of these pathways (i.e. damage the system) and you might start to see some interesting neurological effects on photography - pictures perfectly composed in the right half of the frame but disorganized and sloppy on the left (or vice versa). Oliver Sacks just did a book on musicical perception and creativity as influenced by nerve/brain lesions, and could probably do one on visual perception and creativity as well.

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thanks Andy, i have always taken this to be for the following reason

 

Since eyes are single lens devices, they will register an image upside down, so if you take the pair of eyes and their connected 'wiring', and turn the whole shebang upside down, I wonder if that corrects this issue, and that ultimately that is the reason for it.

 

Yes I know about the notion that the brain 'learns' to 'see' upside down, but i have some doubts on that.

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Great idea! And great work in Illustrator!

 

For M9 I want this:

 

*FF sensor, a must for an upgrade, resulotion >18MP

 

*ISO knob, this is something I really,. really miss on all cameras today, I would suggest something like the one that was on the old Leicaflex SL or maybe something like the time knob on the M-cameras but placed on the left end of the camera. I would want ISO settings from 50 to 3200 with a A for automatic feauture. Quick ISO adjustment is one of the best features with digital cameras in my opinion!

 

*Adapting rangefinder with a knob for manual adjustment and automatic function for the 6-bit codes. This rangefinder should always show the full frame of the currently mounted lens and then adjust itself when changing to a new lens or turning the knob.

 

*Noise reducing sensor. I have an idea here, I don't now shit about sensors but a lot about other electronics and audio. In professional audio we use balanced cables to reduce noise, this is done using a cable with three wires, one for plus, one for ground and one for inverted plus (minus) the plus and inverted plus are then run through a cicuit that compares the signals and removes all common mode noise. My idea was two have the signal from every second pixel inverted and compared to its neighbour thereby cancelling all common mode noise. In audio most of the noise is of common mode type and this is very easy to get rid of using this method. As I said I don't know if this can be implemented in sensor but just an idea. This should be done on high ISO:s (800+) and yes, I know that you will decrease the resolution by 50%, but if you have a 24MP sensor you would still get 12MP.

 

Joakim

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*Noise reducing sensor. I have an idea here, I don't now shit about sensors but a lot about other electronics and audio. In professional audio we use balanced cables to reduce noise, this is done using a cable with three wires...Joakim

 

I believe this is already being done in most digital cameras. Often there is a strip a few pixels wide that records 'black' or what I believe is called 'room tone' in the audio world. That base noise level can be subtracted from the rest of the data captured to reduce noise.

 

That's probably a real vague explanation of how it really works...

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Left-handed, left-eyed.

 

Tried both a Rapidwinder and a Motor, but didn't get on with either. Moving the camera from my eye slightly to wind doesn't bother me, since I tend not to machine-gun my subjects.

 

The rhythm at which you work is more important than the pace, IMO.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

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Okay, you have convinced me on the left eye/right eye thing. However, I still would prefer a manual rewind on the M9. And I'm not sure why they all seem to be laying in the weeds at the moment, but I've read that same desire expressed by numerous other M8 owners on a variety of threads here over the past couple of years. It's not a deal breaker for me one way or the other--merely a strong preference.

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