ZM lens selfcoding - never ending story ?

[wetterzentrale]

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Good Morning, I am new to this forum and have read many contributions re self coding. Just bought myself the ZM 2,8/ 21 and tried to self code it with a sharpie like pencil using the template provided in the mike prevette thread.

It just does not want to work. The M8 is not recognizing the lens. I am using the latest firmware 2.002 and I am wondering what to do next. Should I try to use white color for the bit slots which are not black ? Should I try to test the 6bit recognition of the M8 at a retailer with a new 6-bit coded lens ?

Any advice or sharing of your experience is very welcome.

Thanks in advance - Joe

[delander †]

Some Zeiss lenses need to have the mount changed to get the coding to work. Perhaps this is one of them. The M8 looks at the lens mount and the code.

 

Jeff

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[epand56]

Some Zeiss lenses need to have the mount changed to get the coding to work. Perhaps this is one of them. The M8 looks at the lens mount and the code.

 

Jeff

 

Jeff, can you better explain this? I'm very interested since i've succesfully coded a summilux 35 Asph but no way to code my Konica Hexanon Limited 50/1,2 as a Noctilux.

Maybe that depends on the mount.

[cbretteville]

Joe,

First of all, welcome here!

 

The lens has to have the correct bayonet. It has to bring up the 28/90 frame lines. The camera refuses to recognize the 21mm code otherwise as Leica's 21s have that bayonet. In general the lens you're trying to code as a Leica lens has to behave on the camera like that Leica lens, i.e., bring up thye same frame line sets as the Leica lens would.

 

Second item to check the pen, the ink in the pen is important, it has to block IR. Sharpies work, there have been numerous posts over the years of pens that doesn't.

 

If your lens doesn't bring up the 28/90 pair you can still test the ink in your pen and the accuracy of tour coding. Just hold the frame selector in the 28/90 position with your finger when you release the shutter. If the coding is OK, you'll see 21mm displayed when you view the shot and press the [info] button.

 

I have the same lens as you and has successfully hand coded it.

 

Cheers,

- Carl

[gwelland]

The Zeiss 21/2.8 needs the std mount changed to register with 28mm framelines - can't remember what it did before since it was a while ago but I do know that it won't code correctly with the M8 using the std mount. You can either get a new mount from Zeiss (dop a search of the forums - there's a link to the part no's somewhere) and self code or contact John Milich (jm@milich.com) and he can sell you a replacement mount with machine cut outs for more permanent coding.

 

I find that the sharpie coding on the Zeiss bayonets needs frequent replacing as it doesn't bind to what seems like stainless steel (I'm sure it's probably something else but that's what it acts like).

[aj55]

Jaap did a post with the address, contact at Zeiss and the numbers.

I got mine from Zeiss very quickly and had it done by JM.

Arnold

[wetterzentrale]

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Thank you for your feedbacks.

 

Particular Thanks to Carl. I changed the settings as he suggests and the M8 recognises the lens as being 21mm !!! Thats a great relief as I already thought the 6bit recognition did not work. Many thanks also on the remarks regarding the mount, I was not aware that this is the case and will contact Zeiss to have it changed.

If I understand that right it works like that : Iif I manage to fool the camera using the frame selector to recognise the 21mm the m8 will correct the vignetting and cyan edges. is that right ?

 

Again, many thanks for your thoughts !

[delander †]

If you coded it for the elmarit 21 then the M8 will make corrections for that lens. The Zeiss is close enough. Remember to have your UV/IR cut filter on the lens and have the UV-IR setting on in camera.

 

have fun,

 

Jeff

[Photon42]

Thank you for your feedbacks.

 

Particular Thanks to Carl. I changed the settings as he suggests and the M8 recognises the lens as being 21mm !!! Thats a great relief as I already thought the 6bit recognition did not work. Many thanks also on the remarks regarding the mount, I was not aware that this is the case and will contact Zeiss to have it changed.

If I understand that right it works like that : Iif I manage to fool the camera using the frame selector to recognise the 21mm the m8 will correct the vignetting and cyan edges. is that right ?

 

Again, many thanks for your thoughts !

 

Try google John Milich. I think he's even selling flanges for zeiss lenses with the required recesses already milled. The M8 will treat your correctly coded 21 as a Leica 21/2.8 and runs the respective correction routines to eliminate cyan cast and vignette. Theoretically, the Zeiss and the Leica lens could have different properties in this respect, but I'd say you should be happy with the coding. After all, you can now try it yourself.

 

Cheers

Ivo

[ljclark]

Try google John Milich. I think he's even selling flanges for zeiss lenses with the required recesses already milled.

 

I have a Milich replacement mount on my Zeiss 21 -- works fine. I also have another Milich mount waiting for a Zeiss 25mm that is due to arrive at my local dealer this coming week.

 

(I kinda like John's bronze mount better anyway.)

[Guest roey]

To those of you who have changed the mount yourselves: How did you go about it? Is it as simple as unscrewing the old mount and screwing on the new one?

[wlaidlaw]

I am not quite sure what Zeiss' thinking is in fitting a 24/35 mount to the 21mm and even more strangely, the 28/90 mount to the 25mm. I would have bought a 25 but I could not be bothered to fight with Zeiss again, to order a replacement bayonet (I am happy to mill my own recesses after locating them with one of Tim Isaac's coders). In any case, I have now spent my budget on a MATE.

 

Wilson

[gwelland]

To those of you who have changed the mount yourselves: How did you go about it? Is it as simple as unscrewing the old mount and screwing on the new one?

 

For me, it was just that simple. I used a high quality screwdriver and had no issues removing the screws and mounting the new mount.

 

However, some folks had issues with screws being extremely tight/bonded so be aware of that. I didn't have this issue (maybe I'm just manly with a screwdriver and didn't notice! ) but maybe someone else can describe how they had to do it. A search of the forum should find some posts.

[wlaidlaw]

For me, it was just that simple. I used a high quality screwdriver and had no issues removing the screws and mounting the new mount.

 

However, some folks had issues with screws being extremely tight/bonded so be aware of that. I didn't have this issue (maybe I'm just manly with a screwdriver and didn't notice! ) but maybe someone else can describe how they had to do it. A search of the forum should find some posts.

 

You can soften the locking compound by putting a tiny amount of acetone on each screw head with a cotton bud. Leave for about five minutes and still use a high quality jeweler's screwdriver. If you are going to put locking compound back on, remember to use low strength compound or you will never get the screws undone again, if ever needed for service etc.

 

Wilson

[cbretteville]

One tip is to get the Zeiss lenses from Popflash. They sell the lenses at good prices with the mounts changed for use on the M8. This is where I got my ZM21/2.8. All in all a great shopping experience.

 

- Carl

[gwelland]

Popflash - yes that's a good idea. I've had great service with these folks and getting a lens already set up with the correct mount avoids any potential headaches.

 

Of course, you could then remove the mount and send it to John Milich and he'll machine coding slots for you so you can code it once and forever.

[jaapv]

You can soften the locking compound by putting a tiny amount of acetone on each screw head with a cotton bud. Leave for about five minutes and still use a high quality jeweler's screwdriver. If you are going to put locking compound back on, remember to use low strength compound or you will never get the screws undone again, if ever needed for service etc.

 

Wilson

And, when loosening, turn (or try to turn) the screwdriver clockwise before going anticlockwise.

[cbretteville]

Of course, you could then remove the mount and send it to John Milich and he'll machine coding slots for you so you can code it once and forever.

 

That has been my plan, just haven't gotten that far yet.

- Carl

[gwelland]

I've been using a M-Coder to set up my ZM 21/2.8 as a Leica 21 Elmarit with the ubiquitous Sharpie.

 

I cracked this week and bought one of John's machined mounts instead of sending off the Zeiss 28mm mount & risking bits of lenses at the mercy of the US Postal system. I'm looking forward to seeing how well his mount works. Everything I've bought so far, including the coded LTM mounts & WATE/CV 12 & 15 filter adapters have been excellent so I'm looking forward to never having to Sharpie the lens again.

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Hallo,

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[ljclark]

I have a Milich replacement mount on my Zeiss 21 -- works fine. I also have another Milich mount waiting for a Zeiss 25mm that is due to arrive at my local dealer this coming week.

 

 

John's normal Zeiss mounts bring up the 28/90 frame. For the 25mm lens, the mount has to be modified to bring up the 24/35 frame.