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Guest malland

Received my new M8.2 today...and a question

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Guest malland

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I've been holding out for a long time. Earlier this week in a thread Sean Reid, who knows my photography, said that he's been suggesting for a long time that I get an M8. On the other hand, Imants Krumins, who also knows my photography, has been saying that I should get a camera with which I can shoot more deliberately than with my GRD2. And, finally, I saw a thread where someone said that because of the recent dramatic drop in the value of the GBP, together with the rebate from Leica, one could buy an M8 at an attractive cost in the UK. I did buy in Britain, but ended up getting the M8, which arrived today.

 

After charging the battery I spent a half an hour trying to find how to access the Picture Parameters menu, and in the end had to call another M8 owner to find out how to do it. I suppose it's somewhere in the manual, but sit sure ain't on the two pages that discuss this menu.

 

The immediate reaction that I had was, as many other people have written, that I missed the film advance lever which I would have preferred for cocking the shutter much more than the "retro" bottom plate. I also was quite conscious of the camera being a bit thicker than the M6, as I find it somewhat less comfortable to carry it in my right hand with the strap wound around the wrist — but I'm sure that I'll get sued to this.

 

But the M8.2 is very quiet: using it with the delayed shutter cocking I took pictures of people walking in the street from a distance of 1.0-1.5 meter and people just didn't notice. Actually, it feels good to shot with a Leica-M camera again.

 

As my Leica-M lenses are all in Bangkok, where I won't get back to until May, a friend lent me a few lenses; and here are two pictures — the obligatry "first roll" pictures — shot at ISO2500, processed with Aperture and Silver Efex:

 

 

 

Summicron-35 (version 1)

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ELmarit-21 (pre-ASPH)

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It's too early for me to have any conclusions, but my initial reaction is that ISO2500 has more noise than I expected, but the noise is film-like and there is a good detail. What I'm interested in is to see whether M8 files will be robust enough for me to be able to achieve a high contrast look that is film like, which is not that easy with the GRD2.

 

A question: I see that the files converted in Llightroom and Aperture have different pixel dimension: the former being 3916 x 2634 and the latter being 3904 × 2622 pixel, with neither in the 100:150 ratio it should be. Does anyone the reason for this — why are they stealing my pixels? — and whether there is a way to get the pixel dimension to where they should be? (When I export a JPG from Aperture at 864 width its dimension is 864 x 570 rather than 864 x 576).

 

—Mitch/Paris

Bangkok Hysteria©: Book Project - a set on Flickr

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Mitch congratulations and I hope you enjoy your M8.

 

ISO 2500

It is really ISO 3200 and have you shot with any ISO 3200 film recently? Was the grain in that film lower then the M8.

 

Ratio

Although Leica states it is 2/3 ratio is really isn't to a small degree.

As to why Aperture and LR report a different pixel count I don't know.

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Hi Mitch,

 

I've found that the accessory grip *greatly* improves my hold on the M8 when I'm carrying it in my right hand. You may want to try it.

 

If you push an ISO 2500/3200 file from the M8 it will often fall apart because of banding, etc. but you may as well experiment and see what you find. ISO 1250/1600 is more resilient.

 

RAW conversion programs often vary in their output files sizes (from the same file).

 

BTW, that figure against the van is good.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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Many congratulations on your purchase.

 

I have followed your photos on Flickr for some time now and love your Bangkok series. I look forward to seeing your work with the M8.

 

Also I enjoyed your thread in RFF talking through how one can approach processing of digital images to make them more film like. I'm sure you'll be learning a lot in that direction as well and I hope you share your findings with us.

 

I am particularly interested in seeing how you will work with high ISO. For me, as a matter of personal taste I don't go beyond 640. Maybe it's just personal bias I have to overcome, but to me noise looks different from grain, and it's so far not been a look that I particularly like. If there's a way to post-process to work the noise to one's advantage, that would really be great.

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Guest stnami

Ah Mitch you have succumbed:D ...... I still reckon you should shoot 640, 1250 and process in "Playstation" or whatever, it will give you an edge in deconstructing and reconstructing the files, just that extra space to breathe in the push and pull department and get the grit into the images

Imants Krumins:D:D

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Ah Mitch you have succumbed:D ...... I still reckon you should shoot 640, 1250 and process in "Playstation" or whatever, it will give you an edge in deconstructing and reconstructing the files, just that extra space to breathe in the push and pull department and get the grit into the images

Imants Krumins:D:D

 

Yup, that's my thinking too. And, of course, 640 is going to be more elastic than 1250.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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Guest stnami

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Congratulations Mitch. I can't wait to see your work (your style/art with the M8 brush).

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Guest malland

Thanks, all, for the comments. By the time I got out yesterday it was dark enough that I pretty much had to use ISO2500 to have a fast enough shutter to speak for people in motion, but, of course, will be trying ISO640 and 1250.

 

Sean, I'll have to reread your M8 reviews but remember your saying that the ISO's are conservative in that, for example, 1250 and 2500 are really 1600 and 3200. Does that mean that uses generally use something like -0.7 EV?

 

Incidentally, I find the EV compensation fairly easy and fast to dial in, requiring only the forefinger and thumb of one hand. I had been concerned about having to go into a menu to change ISO, but the M8 arrangement is not bad in that, if that is the last item that one used in the Picture Parameters menu, it is the one selected when one presses SET to go into the next time, which makes the adjustment a fairly quick operation. I would have preferrred the SET button to be in the center of the Central Setting Ring.

 

I have been rereading Sean's lens reviews and have ordered the CV15, in order to have the 21mm EFOV that I like and also to have a lens to use until I get back to Bangkok in early May. From what Sean and others on this forum have said about the Zeiss 18mm, I'm also thinking about buying that lens, particularly if I get a good deal on that, although the 21mm EFOV of the CV15 will be very close to the 24mm EFV of the Zeiss 18.

 

—Mitch/Paris

Bangkok Hysteria©: Book Project - a set on Flickr

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Mitch, I think that Sean was trying to say that the M8 ISO rounds up to what other manufacturers use as standard ISO. No need to compensate with EV.

 

I get that you needed to use higher ISO late at night. I think you are going to really like 640 and 1250.

 

The faster CV15 and Zeiss 18 are going to be your lenses for sure. You have zeroed in on the right lenses.

 

I have the Tri Elmar 16/18/21 and it is slow and big(long). I will probably try to get the Zeiss 18mm. Just wish Leica made a prime under 21. But, the Tri Elmar is coupled and it is sharp.

 

When we get the FF M9, the 21mm/1.4 is going to be a dream lens for you.

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Aperture and Silver efex are not the best software to process DNG 2500 Iso, use Capture one 4 and you will see immediatly the Big difference. If you want better result after this process use PS3 and D-fine. That all.

Anyway to use 2500 Iso never give great picture even with a Nikon or Canon.

Good work and enjoy

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... The immediate reaction that I had was, as many other people have written, that I missed the film advance lever which I would have preferred for cocking the shutter much more than the "retro" bottom plate. I also was quite conscious of the camera being a bit thicker than the M6, as I find it somewhat less comfortable to carry it in my right hand with the strap wound around the wrist ...

 

 

I strongly recommend the cold-shoe version of Tim Isaac's 'Thumbs Up' lever to improve the comfort and handling of your new M8. It looks good on the camera too. Go here: match Technical Services and take a look at the many discussions about the 'Thumbs Up' on this forum; e.g: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/46070-thumbs-up-accessory-shoe-available.html

 

Congratulations on your purchase. As someone recently said on this forum, the M8 is a 'charming' camera that works its way into your affections despite its quirks ... and it takes great pictures too!

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You don't need Capure 1, IMHO. Silver Efex is under rated. I use LR and SE, by the way.

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Guest malland
Aperture and Silver efex are not the best software to process DNG 2500 Iso, use Capture one 4 and you will see immediatly the Big difference. If you want better result after this process use PS3 and D-fine. That all.

Anyway to use 2500 Iso never give great picture even with a Nikon or Canon.

Good work and enjoy

Auni, thanks, I wasn't aware of the 21mm/F1.4, in which I wuld be interested even for the M8 because I like the 28mm EFOV a lot. I'll have to check whether Sean has reviewed is because would like to know how it compares to the 21/F2.8 ASPH, which I like a lot.

 

Choosing the CV15 and Zeiss 18 is really all thanks to having read Sean Reid's reviews of these lenses. The subscription to Reid Reviews is really invaluable at the stage at which I am now, of learning to use the M8 and experimenting with it, and re-evaluating my stable of M-lenses — as is the LUF site as well. I really appreciate these comments that I'm getting — a great resource.

 

I also have the 28mm/F2.8, the one before the latest, compact one, which I also like a lot, and will have to find out how it compares to the latter and to the newer, faster version. The 28mm focal length, which is 37mm EFOV on the M8 is anther important focal length.

 

Eventually, I'll have to figure out whether to keep my Summarit-35 (version 4) or whether to go for a Summilux-35, ASPH or not.

 

The Summilux-50, last pre-ASPH version, has been a favorite lens for me but, now, with a 67mm EFOV is long for me — and these days I'm more into long DOF than isolating subjects through bokeh.

 

Tranber, thanks, I'll have to try C1 next week, but I really think Silver Efex is excellent and makes it very easy to get film-like results — see this thread:

 

GRD2 + Aperture + Silevr Efex --> Film-like results without tears - Rangefinderforum.com

 

Speenth, thanks, I also have a look ar Thumbs Up next week.

 

I just came back from "crème" and croissants at the local café, where I tried to shoot using exposure locking with a half-press of the shutter — the trouble was, I find after reading the manual, I wasn't pressing hard enough to get into the half-press, which is another thing to get used to.

 

—Mitch/Paris

Bangkok Hysteria©: Book Project - a set on Flickr

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Auni, thanks, I wasn't aware of the 21mm/F1.4, in which I wuld be interested even for the M8 because I like the 28mm EFOV a lot. I'll have to check whether Sean has reviewed it because I would like to know how it compares to the 21/F2.8 ASPH, which I like a lot.

 

Sean has said somewhere that he will review the two new Summiluxes, but they aren't due in the stores until next month, so I suspect it will take a while. Even Erwin Puts has only written about the prospect and the MTF's, but shows no sign of being able to comment on actual performance yet.

 

scott

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Anyway to use 2500 Iso never give great picture even with a Nikon or Canon.

 

This is complete rubbish.

 

It's really beyond me why people can't simply confine themselves to what they know about, and give constructive help without mixing in this meretricious nonsense. The camera is what it is, and other cameras are what they are - test them for yourself if you're interested.

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Hello Mitch, no doubt you will enjoy you new M8.

I also love to get around keeping my M8 in the right hand rather than dangling on my neck.

I did try the Leica hand grip but did not love it at all, so I've sold it.

I found this "Sling" gear very, very usefull and comfortable, especially if used along with the "Strap" and the "Hook". Here you can see these objects:

 

Get your SLING for the Leica M!

 

Get your STRAP for the Leica M!

 

Get HOOKed!

 

I've never dismounted them from my camera after i bought and put them on.

Hope this helps

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Guest malland
This is complete rubbish.

 

It's really beyond me why people can't simply confine themselves to what they know about, and give constructive help without mixing in this meretricious nonsense. The camera is what it is, and other cameras are what they are - test them for yourself if you're interested.

Certainly on my Nikon D300 ISO3200 is quite impressive, although I've only used it for a few shots so far.

 

—Mitch/Paris

Bangkok Hysteria©: Book Project - a set on Flickr

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Certainly on my Nikon D300 is quite impressive, although I've only used it for a few shots so far.]

 

Sorry for the explosion Mitch - let's not derail the thread. Congratulations on the new camera.

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Congratulations. For 'normal' light I tend to have 1/3rd of a stop dialled in, when I'm shooting in poor light I tend to set this back to normal exposure. ISO 1250 isn't actually that bad when exposed correctly. Underexpose and it gets very noisy very quickly.

 

As for the strap, when I don't want to have the camera around my neck, I just wrap the strap around my wrist.

 

Another vote for the grip. I used one on my M6 and use one on my M8.

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