sfokevin Posted October 4, 2008 Share #41 Posted October 4, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 4, 2008 Posted October 4, 2008 Hi sfokevin, Take a look here M8.2 Lens recommendation. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Shootist Posted October 4, 2008 Share #42 Posted October 4, 2008 50mm is almost useless on the m8 not long enough for portraits not wide enough for anything else I don't think so. Close up, Lux @ f/1.4 Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Shot in a restaurant from behind a glass windows out into the open air area. It's a Lens, It's a Lens, It's a Lens and no different then a 21, 28, 35, 75, 90 or 135. It all depends on how you use it. So you have either never given it a good try or you are not adapt enough to make it work for you. Just my point of view when anyone says "This lens is not good on camera X". The 50 Lux ASPH is thee best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Shot in a restaurant from behind a glass windows out into the open air area. It's a Lens, It's a Lens, It's a Lens and no different then a 21, 28, 35, 75, 90 or 135. It all depends on how you use it. So you have either never given it a good try or you are not adapt enough to make it work for you. Just my point of view when anyone says "This lens is not good on camera X". The 50 Lux ASPH is thee best. ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64496-m82-lens-recommendation/?do=findComment&comment=675477'>More sharing options...
tom0511 Posted October 4, 2008 Share #43 Posted October 4, 2008 I ould rather go 35 mm than 50mm if it was one lnes only. HOwever my favortie combo is 28 and 50. So I suggest to go 28 frist and add 50 or 75 in1 or 2 or 3 years, whenever you get thoe money. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 4, 2008 Share #44 Posted October 4, 2008 I could say the same about my F1 but it doesn't change the fact that its a very bizarre focal length with the M8 crop and I strongly believe that if people are advising the OP (who only wants one GENERAL PURPOSE lens) to buy a 50mm then we are really doing him a diservice. A 50mm is not a general purpose lens on the M8. I know there will be people that disagree but generally, its just an awkward length sorry, but that's photography in the same way that 12mm for portraits looks strange, and ~75mm makes the face look good, and 50mm is the most similar to the human eye and 300mm isn't much good for environmental street photography etc... these are facts, visual facts that cannot be ignored or refuted I agree with you on all that - that's why I suggested the 28 cron though I think the OP should read al the reid reviews articles on M glass, since they are definitive without being cranky or idiosyncratic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eoin Posted October 4, 2008 Share #45 Posted October 4, 2008 50mm is almost useless on the m8 not long enough for portraits not wide enough for anything else LOL, speak for your self, it's my most used lens. One size does not fit all as they say!. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted October 4, 2008 Share #46 Posted October 4, 2008 yes but some peoples preferences are more preferable than others and not everything personal is equal Well yes, a personal prefernce is just that, something that an individual prefers. Would I recommend a 50mm lens as a only lens to use on an M8? No. For that I'd recommend either a 28mm or 35mm lens based on the photographers preference. Would I say that a 50mm lens is useless on an M8? No. Short answer to the original question. Your best first lens is likely to be a 28mm or 35mm lens. Luckily with an M you can select the various framelines manually. That should enable you to select the lens that suits _you_ best before you buy a lens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwelland Posted October 5, 2008 Share #47 Posted October 5, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I started with a 28 Cron/75 Cron combination and I've been extremely happy with them. Performance has been outstanding. However, after I got a 35 Cron for my film M I found myself using the M8 with the 35 Cron as an almost ideal single lens outfit. If I were buying again today the 35 Cron would be my choice. Ultimately though the choice of lens is dependent on the type of shooting you do. The wider 28 may suit better if you find yourself shooting street/social situations or perhaps like to frame a shot loosely. Similarly the 35 may be better if you prefer less intimate shooting and want a bit more distance between you and the subject. or you maybe prefer a tighter composition. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
63strat Posted October 5, 2008 Author Share #48 Posted October 5, 2008 Many thanks for all the help, everyone. As of today, I've decided to go with the 35/2 Summicron. After reading all the replies, I think it's the best compromise for me for now, given that I'll only have a single lens to start. I'm a little concerned about the focus shift issues I've been reading about, but I'm getting the impression that that's mainly with the Summilux 35. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 5, 2008 Share #49 Posted October 5, 2008 Many thanks for all the help, everyone. As of today, I've decided to go with the 35/2 Summicron. After reading all the replies, I think it's the best compromise for me for now, given that I'll only have a single lens to start. I'm a little concerned about the focus shift issues I've been reading about, but I'm getting the impression that that's mainly with the Summilux 35. My advice: check it out in store before you shell out: I tried three or four before giving up. I don't want to be the prophet of doom here and I fully appreciate that the 35 lux and cron are much beloved by many but the fact is that a lot of them do suffer focus shift. Both luxes and, as you say, less so, crons. Get a shutter speed of 1/500th or higher if possible for all shots. Focus on something that allows really good focus (i.e. lots of lines and contrast) and which is in teh dead centre of the FOV and about ten feet or three metres away. Take a shot at f2, then at every detent through to F8. Then look at the images at 100% on screen. If the F2 shot and the F8 shot are sharp in the centre but the F4 shot is less so (and the others somewhere between) then what you are seeing is focus shift. Theoretically you can adjust for this by tweaking the focus at those intermediate apertures but, effective though it can be, this is guesswork and I would not rely on it. My final decision was to get a CV 35mm skopar, which can be given a coded Milich mount and which is a great lens. And then I found that the 28 Cron was a more useful FOV for me anyway! Whatever you do, good luck and do let us know how you get one! Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 5, 2008 Share #50 Posted October 5, 2008 Many thanks for all the help, everyone. As of today, I've decided to go with the 35/2 Summicron. After reading all the replies, I think it's the best compromise for me for now, given that I'll only have a single lens to start. I'm a little concerned about the focus shift issues I've been reading about, but I'm getting the impression that that's mainly with the Summilux 35. I think the tail of focus shift on the 35mm Summicron is way over stated. I have one I bought from B&H in NY sight unseen, as I live in Atlanta, back in 2007 right after I got my M8 and I have never experienced any focus shift with the lens. It is my most used lens after the 50 Lux. I think you'll be very happy with it. Here's a shot I took today with it. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64496-m82-lens-recommendation/?do=findComment&comment=676550'>More sharing options...
jackal Posted October 6, 2008 Share #51 Posted October 6, 2008 Many thanks for all the help, everyone. As of today, I've decided to go with the 35/2 Summicron. After reading all the replies, I think it's the best compromise for me for now, given that I'll only have a single lens to start. I'm a little concerned about the focus shift issues I've been reading about, but I'm getting the impression that that's mainly with the Summilux 35. damm, you should have got the 50mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 6, 2008 Share #52 Posted October 6, 2008 I think the tail of focus shift on the 35mm Summicron is way over stated. I have one I bought from B&H in NY sight unseen, as I live in Atlanta, back in 2007 right after I got my M8 and I have never experienced any focus shift with the lens. It is my most used lens after the 50 Lux.I think you'll be very happy with it. Here's a shot I took today with it. [ATTACH]106274[/ATTACH] With respect, you can't generalise from one sample! So let me reiterate to the OP * I have tried several 35 crons and several 35 luxes on several bodies * They all suffered focus shift, the crons less so than the luxes * Many other people have confirmed the same problem whereas many have not experienced it. Pre- aspheric lenses seem fine, as do many chrome aspherics * Leica themselves confirmed to me that this is characteristic of the asph design of these lenses Therefore you should, if you want either of these lenses, be prepared to undergo the (minimum) testing regime I suggest above, or be prepared to be disappointed, or be lucky! Other lenses which are classically affected are the 50 lux (though I have a very well functioning example myself) and the recently discontinued noctilux (I have one which I have had adjusted and which is acceptable, given that what I really want it for is wide open shooting). Best T Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elviskennedy Posted October 6, 2008 Share #53 Posted October 6, 2008 I've shot with 4 35 asph summicrons, all of which were perfect. Tim, you must mean the 50 lux PRE-Asph, right? My 50 lux asph is dead on and I thought that the moving elements eliminated the focus shift issues. Is that not the case? If the problem is due to aspherics why would chrome lenses not have the problem? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 6, 2008 Share #54 Posted October 6, 2008 I've shot with 4 35 asph summicrons, all of which were perfect. Tim, you must mean the 50 lux PRE-Asph, right? My 50 lux asph is dead on and I thought that the moving elements eliminated the focus shift issues. Is that not the case? If the problem is due to aspherics why would chrome lenses not have the problem? Excuse me not rehashing in depth but I meant pretty much exactly what I said: * My 50 lux is perfect and has always been but some people have reported examples which aren't * Myself and a wide variety of other people have reported focus shift with 35 lux and less so with 35 crons (both asph) though some people believe that the chrome ones are less prone to this. No one knows why. I have never claimed that it's not possible to get good copies of either lens, merely that none of the ones I have tried have been good. Leica themselves have acknowledged my findings to be true and to be characteristic of the aspheric design. I would say it is a pretty well known phenomenon, whatever the experience of individuals. Best T Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pklein Posted October 6, 2008 Share #55 Posted October 6, 2008 The focus shift issue is real, but easily dealt with. My 35/1.4 ASPH does shift slightly back from f/2.8-5.6. So I focus on the closest thing I want in the focus zone, and all's well. My old 35/2 Ver IV Summicron also had focus shift. I had DAG adjust it so that f/2.8 and smaller are right on, and deal with a slight front focus at f/2. This works in the real world most of the time. If you want 1:1 pixel-peeping perfection, you might not be happy with the M8. Long-term, most people adjust to its quirks, a few give up. The image quality you'll get with a 35/2 Cron ASPH is astounding. --Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted October 6, 2008 Share #56 Posted October 6, 2008 The focus shift issue is real, but easily dealt with. My 35/1.4 ASPH does shift slightly back from f/2.8-5.6. So I focus on the closest thing I want in the focus zone, and all's well. My old 35/2 Ver IV Summicron also had focus shift. I had DAG adjust it so that f/2.8 and smaller are right on, and deal with a slight front focus at f/2. This works in the real world most of the time. If you want 1:1 pixel-peeping perfection, you might not be happy with the M8. Long-term, most people adjust to its quirks, a few give up. The image quality you'll get with a 35/2 Cron ASPH is astounding. --Peter I've done the guesswork thing with a 35 lux - I had to, since I got one off the shelf and flew to a shoot with it thinking it would work. I spent the next four days tweaking focus forward. The results were good enough for Leica to link to them for a year and a half from their M8 product page as the only example they provided of the quality of results from the camera. My point is, those shots were not as good as the camera can do, just were the result of intelligent guesswork. It is also true to say that the degree of focus inaccuracy varies not only with F stop but also with distance and with position in the frame. That's a lot of variability to guess and having done it on that occasion I would not want to live with the risks again. The reason one spends amounts of money which to many other people appear stupid is that the results justify it, when the glass is good enough. 'Good' in my book means that at over four thousand dollars per lens, they should focus. Really. They really really should! :-) T Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eoin Posted October 6, 2008 Share #57 Posted October 6, 2008 ..........The reason one spends amounts of money which to many other people appear stupid is that the results justify it, when the glass is good enough. 'Good' in my book means that at over four thousand dollars per lens, they should focus. Really. They really really should!.... About the most sensible comment I've read on the board recently. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfredo Posted October 7, 2008 Share #58 Posted October 7, 2008 Congratulations. I have a 35mm Cron ASPH and I really love the lens. You will be happy with it. Since I almost always use it @ f/5.6 or f/8 I've never noticed any focus shift problems. Enjoy it! I have yet to see a less than satisfactory performer on the M8. I have a 50mm Konica Hexanon which works great AND IS DIRT CHEAP. Also an 18 MM Carl Zeiss lens. No lens seems to disappoint me on the M8. Let your creative spirit soar! Peace, Wilfredo Benitez-Rivera Photography Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
63strat Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share #59 Posted October 13, 2008 I ended up with the Summicron 35/2, and so far, I'm very happy with my choice. I thoroughly checked it for focus-shift issues, and it has no problems in that area at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammam Posted October 13, 2008 Share #60 Posted October 13, 2008 Sounds a lot complicated: adapters to the M mount, adapters for coding, extra filtering for IR. There are several CV lenses in M mount, no adapters needed. Coding is not necessary for anything above 28-35 mm, and certainly not for B&W. And wat do you mean by «extra filtering for flters»? I never heard of that. AFAIK, all M or screw mount CV lenses will accept standard filters, uncluding anti-IRs. Give it a second thought. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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