cbretteville Posted September 29, 2006 Share #1 Posted September 29, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) Anyone care to guess a time for KB100 in Xtol 1+1 or higher dilution at EI100? The MDC only lists a time for 1+0 (8-9 mins). - Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 29, 2006 Posted September 29, 2006 Hi cbretteville, Take a look here Efke KB100 in Xtol?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
cbretteville Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share #2 Posted September 30, 2006 Xtol 1+0 for EI100 at 8min 30 at 19C is way to much. The highlight are approaching d-max. Agitation was 30 sec first minute and 10 secs there after. I must say that I like the tonality of this film though. It will not be the last roll I shoot using it. Not all that fine grained, true, but some times that just works better. Two bonuses are that a) it is really cheap and it uses the same casettes as Ilford did in the 80s - i.e., they're reusable for bulk loading. - Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted September 30, 2006 Share #3 Posted September 30, 2006 Anyone care to guess a time for KB100 in Xtol 1+1 or higher dilution at EI100? The MDC only lists a time for 1+0 (8-9 mins). Hi Carl, I developed lots of rolls of Efke 100 in Xtol a few years ago. I can't remember the times - but I think I have then written down back at home - but I seem to remember 12 mins at 1:3. My memory might be failing me though, Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejd Posted October 1, 2006 Share #4 Posted October 1, 2006 RetroPhotographic http://www.retrophotographic.com/PDFs/Efke_Foma_Classic_Pan_Development_Times.pdf recommends 9 minutes at 20 degrees C in XTOL. -- actually, reading your question, I see this does not answer it. They do not mention dilution in their chart, so I suppose they mean full strength, and you have this info already, and find it unhelpful! Is this to be trusted? See below. I have a similar problem. In this case with too much conflicting information. I have a couple of rolls of Efke / Adox 100 to develop, and was planning to use Rodinal. There are three wildly different pieces of info on development times. The Massive Development Chart says 10 mins at 1+50 or 6 mins at 1+25; the film pack says 1+40 for 12-14 mins (with Adox APH 09 which is a Rodinal replacement, I believe); the advice sheet from Retro Photographic, where I bought the film, suggests 13 mins at 1+25 or 19 mins at 1+100. Any suggestions as to where in this range would be a good place to start would be most welcome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 1, 2006 Share #5 Posted October 1, 2006 hi john and carl... very difficult question.. it depends on what u photographed (lighting conditions), on water u use etc... and not all termometers sow the same - believe me, i had a girl friend in chemistry student - in labaratories with the best equipment and i made some tests with two termomenters (one older one newer i bought then) and suspected that something was wrong - true - something was wrong :-))))))) so this might explain the differances... i would say that as starting point get 1+50 rodinal ( i asume that u want deluted wither rodinal or xtol), and develop it 12 minutes. first aggitation 30 secounds... hand rotation - not inversion of the tank. then every minute for 15 secounds... again almost all of them hand circile motion of the tank, not rotation of tank up and down... only in the middle, say at 5 min do rotate the tank for 4 or 5 times (to make sure that no solution goes unparalelly down the tank), or u can do it two times during this 12 minutes if u want. about xtol - sorry - i dont know, i dont use xtol (use id11 for this type of developers) this will be good starting point. on the next film u will be smarter after this Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
haris Posted October 1, 2006 Share #6 Posted October 1, 2006 Not direcly to question, but... Two days ago I saw in shop in my town, EFKE 100, 35mm, 36 frames from 1,80 EURO vent up to 2.80 EURO. EFKE 400 is 4 EURO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejd Posted October 1, 2006 Share #7 Posted October 1, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) Victor -- thanks for the suggestion. Let's see how it works out. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted October 2, 2006 Author Share #8 Posted October 2, 2006 John, For Rodinal my supplier's web site recommends 1+24 at 20C for 5 minutes, this is for ISO80 though and is supposed to give you this curve: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! - Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! - Carl ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/6216-efke-kb100-in-xtol/?do=findComment&comment=62623'>More sharing options...
ejd Posted October 3, 2006 Share #9 Posted October 3, 2006 Many thanks for all the advice, Victor and Carl. I decided in the end to try Rodinal 1+40 for 12 minutes at 20 deg C -- the lower end of the recommended time on the film pack, just a little more than victor's suggestion. Maybe it was slightly too much. The negatives look somewhat dark with plenty of contrast. I think I could have got away with a few minutes less -- perhaps 10 minutes instead of 12 -- or 1+50 instead of 1+40. I've yet to see how the negatives scan. There are so many other variables of course. I may have exposed the film generously, the camera shutter may have running slow, maybe I was too vigorous with the agitation of the tank, the thermometer may under-read slightly. One observation is too few! Interestingly, or maybe not, a roll of FP4 plus developed in Rodinal a few days ago, following the instructions, produced some thin looking and not contrasty negatives, which nevertheless scanned perfectly well and produced reasonable prints. I'll see how a second roll of Adox 100 does with slightly shorter development time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejd Posted October 3, 2006 Share #10 Posted October 3, 2006 OK. I now have two observations. The second with Rodinal for 12 mins at 1+50 at 20 deg C -- as Victor suggested. This seems to me better. The negatives are still quite contrasty but on the whole slightly lighter than the previous one (1+40). This one looks more promising. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 3, 2006 Share #11 Posted October 3, 2006 hi johnn... sorry if i mislead u.. but as i sid rite away - it is very difficult question.. only testing helps there... have u agitated the tank as i described (only hand rotation in circular way) or inverted it all the time. if inverted upside-down.. then the negative will be far more contrasty... also - wach carefully for lighting conditions while photographing... it is important... not to mention the exposure etc... also- this film is very flexible... if u use modern lenses - i would suggest to use it even slightly pushed.... say 125 or even 160 as a normal speed - but u can freefly push it to 200 as well... really.. experiment with it when u have time to play a bit, it is a very rewarding film Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejd Posted October 4, 2006 Share #12 Posted October 4, 2006 No problem, Victor. Quite the opposite; I'm very grateful for the advice. The negatives aren't bad at all. And I may be agitating the tank too much. I was unable to resist inverting it from time to time. Next time I will be much gentler with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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