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Pentax AF201FG Flash on M11


MaxGor

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2 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Just try it. It should work in manual and automatic mode. 

Hmm, how it will work in automatic - it is not the same camera brand...

I tried in manual and it works, but even 1/4 of full power badly overexposed(when auto iso is on with correction -1).  I might work better in daylight, I tried in a dark room with not much light coming through the window.

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Automatic is not TTL, it uses the thyristor in the flash. On manual you must calculate the aperture and switch off auto ISO. You don’t want the camera kicking it up because it is dark. 

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not familiar with this unit but, M1 or M1/4 is not a lot of a choice. Plus the auto, where is the sensor that regulates that? Maybe it does rely on the camera exposure meter? Usually flashes with the auto mode have a photocell on the front...

 

 

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19 minutes ago, geotrupede said:

not familiar with this unit but, M1 or M1/4 is not a lot of a choice. Plus the auto, where is the sensor that regulates that? Maybe it does rely on the camera exposure meter? Usually flashes with the auto mode have a photocell on the front...

 

 

Indeed. manual control here is pretty limited. That auto stuff never properly worked on GR3, I though it was sort of TTL...  

Will be getting FlashQ Q20 when its back to stock on UK amazon.

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From the instructions, the only 'Auto' mode this particular flash has is a Pentax-specific TTL auto mode, which won't work with Leicas. Therefore you can only use the manual modes. There is another type of automatic mode found on many older flash units that is also typically called 'Auto', which is what jaapv is thinking of. This uses a sensor in the flash itself rather than TTL flash metering. The automation is much more rudimentary that what you'd get with a dedicated Leica system flash  (SF 40 / SF 60), but it can still be useful.

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8 hours ago, Anbaric said:

From the instructions, the only 'Auto' mode this particular flash has is a Pentax-specific TTL auto mode, which won't work with Leicas. Therefore you can only use the manual modes. There is another type of automatic mode found on many older flash units that is also typically called 'Auto', which is what jaapv is thinking of. This uses a sensor in the flash itself rather than TTL flash metering. The automation is much more rudimentary that what you'd get with a dedicated Leica system flash  (SF 40 / SF 60), but it can still be useful.

 

This is what I thought about AF201FG  auto mode - seems manual is only an option and two power outputs are pretty limiting., but it is not like it's totally unusable. 

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Am 16.6.2024 um 20:36 schrieb MaxGor:

Hmm, how it will work in automatic - it is not the same camera brand...

I tried in manual and it works, but even 1/4 of full power badly overexposed(when auto iso is on with correction -1).  I might work better in daylight, I tried in a dark room with not much light coming through the window.

Auto ISO on camera will most likely result in overexposure because the camera cannot take the (unknown) flash light into consideration. Will be the same with the Q20. Agreed, The two choices 1/4 and „full“ are not exhaustive but should be suitable for normal flash photography situations 

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18 minutes ago, jgeenen said:

Auto ISO on camera will most likely result in overexposure because the camera cannot take the (unknown) flash light into consideration. Will be the same with the Q20. Agreed, The two choices 1/4 and „full“ are not exhaustive but should be suitable for normal flash photography situations 

 

I am shooting with -1 exposure correction in auto iso mode.  I am hoping that I could set Q20 to small output, so it will not overexpose that badly.

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4 minutes ago, MaxGor said:

 

I am shooting with -1 exposure correction in auto iso mode.  I am hoping that I could set Q20 to small output, so it will not overexpose that badly.

You do not want to use auto iso with a manual flash (and imo you shouldn't use auto iso ever but that's another story). That's not how manual flash works. Set your fixed iso, and then set your aperture (and a shutter speed to balance out the ambient light if you want). Adjust aperture as needed, and/or the intensity of flash as needed. With manual flash, it's typically trial and error, though one can become pretty efficient at it, and it works best with a flash that has endlessly variable settings in manual, like the Profoto A10 I use so one can just leave the aperture alone and scroll the intensity of flash output on the fly depending on how close/far one is to the subject. See example below with M10M and 18mm Elmar. You can't try and marry one 'dumb' (or manual) thing with one 'smart' (or auto) thing and expect it to work. 

 

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Posted (edited)

I just need a bit of fill in effect - only to soften shadows, etc...    Outside it will be pretty difficult for me to have everything on manual - I am hoping that EV correction up to -3 will do the trick.  It is my plan/theory - I never tried it before, possibly I am talking rubbish. 

 

PS

Great shot by the way!

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godox lux senior is quite ok, the lux master is also fun but you need the trigger and the x3L is not yet available (but soon will be). and the master does not do auto as well as the senior (unless you get another piece of kit which is a remote lux sensor).

alternatively go for used leicas, the SD24 or sf58 (need firmware update by a leica shop).

the most functional with auto, ttl, and hss is the sf58. but $$$. and quite big. but works great.

G.

 

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14 hours ago, geotrupede said:

godox lux senior is quite ok, the lux master is also fun but you need the trigger and the x3L is not yet available (but soon will be). and the master does not do auto as well as the senior (unless you get another piece of kit which is a remote lux sensor).

alternatively go for used leicas, the SD24 or sf58 (need firmware update by a leica shop).

the most functional with auto, ttl, and hss is the sf58. but $$$. and quite big. but works great.

G.

 

 

3 hours ago, jaapv said:

It is very much easier to buy a vintage flash with traditional thyristor type Auto setting and proper output controls. Trying to use brand-dedicated flashes on other brands is bound to lead to problems. 
Or buy a universal flash like this one:

https://th.hkyongnuo.com/products/yn560-iii

 

Thanks both, I am looking for smallest and lightest option.

Great thing about flashq q20 ii is not its small size and weighs, but also it is easily detachable from camera hot shoe and becoming wireless.   And this all costs about $100.

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2 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Yes, but it is a Pentax flash, and you need a generic or Leica one.

Yeah, it actually works as generic, in generic(fully manual) it provides  1/4 of full power output - that is only the limitation.  

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I use an Olympus FL36 that was marketed for the m43 cameras but can also be set to '35mm' format in the menu. As such it's a TTL flash that defaults to 'Auto' or 'Manual' on other cameras where the TTL won't work. To use it on 'Auto' you need to set the ISO you want on the flash and on the camera, set the lens focal length on the flash, and away you go, the flash then calculates the distance to the subject and it's output. It would be very odd for a camera manufacturer such as Pentax not to have used generic circuitry such as this in a flash gun.

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1 hour ago, MaxGor said:

 

 

Thanks both, I am looking for smallest and lightest option.

Great thing about flashq q20 ii is not its small size and weighs, but also it is easily detachable from camera hot shoe and becoming wireless.   And this all costs about $100.

Quite a few smallest lightest speedlights were discussed last year in the above link

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