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Richard.no

Removing Zeiss M 18mm flange/mount - How easy is it going to be?

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A step by step guidance on how to remove the mount on the Zeiss ZM 18mm?

 

I am now considering the Zeiss ZM 18mm for my M8 (along with the WATE, but I am not sure whether it is worth it). As far as I understand, the WATE is more versatile, but it's more expensive, and has some filter/hood hazzle one should not expect at that price point. I could travel for three weeks for the price difference - and I think I just might.

 

The ZM 18mm sounds like a nice alternative, taking into account the words of Sean Reid.

 

I was imagining how I had to order the lens, then the other M flange to trigger the right framelines, and finally, send this flange to John Milich for milling. After having a second good look at Milich "price list", I find that he actually offers a ready-made Z18M8 flange/bayonet.

 

So let's say I order the Zeiss 18mm. Will I be able to get the original flange off the lens, without destroying the whole thing? I am no brute, but no swiss watch maker either...

 

Anyone with experience on this one? Please feel free to make a "how to", right here. It would be nice if you also suggested a external finder for the Zeiss.

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There was a long thread on this a couple of weeks ago - search for acetone and zeiss.

 

I think John Milich's adapter is a very good way to go for this lens; there are pics of an adapter machined and installed in the above-mentioned thread.

 

JohnS.

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here's a question- is the ziess 25mm flange (stock, 28/90 lines) compatible with the zeiss 18mm? ie mounting holes, diameter, thickness?

 

In other words, I bought a zeiss 25 and got the extra zeiss flange to swap out from zeiss. This left me with the spare original. I had JM mill both. I thought at some point I might buy a zeiss 21, but now the 18 is out and that would be better for me.

 

can I put the 25mm flange on the 18mm?

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A step by step guidance on how to remove the mount on the Zeiss ZM 18mm?

 

I am now considering the Zeiss ZM 18mm for my M8 (along with the WATE, but I am not sure whether it is worth it). As far as I understand, the WATE is more versatile, but it's more expensive, and has some filter/hood hazzle one should not expect at that price point. I could travel for three weeks for the price difference - and I think I just might.

 

The ZM 18mm sounds like a nice alternative, taking into account the words of Sean Reid.

 

I was imagining how I had to order the lens, then the other M flange to trigger the right framelines, and finally, send this flange to John Milich for milling. After having a second good look at Milich "price list", I find that he actually offers a ready-made Z18M8 flange/bayonet.

 

So let's say I order the Zeiss 18mm. Will I be able to get the original flange off the lens, without destroying the whole thing? I am no brute, but no swiss watch maker either...

 

Anyone with experience on this one? Please feel free to make a "how to", right here. It would be nice if you also suggested a external finder for the Zeiss.

 

I'll be reviewing John's adapter as soon as I get time (including cyan drift tests). Search the posts and look for the advice on gradually adding acetone, working the screw in its thread, etc. Don't forget that you can also just use Cornerfix and leave the bayonet alone.

 

Short Review: John's adapter fits correctly, doesn't alter focus accuracy and triggers the WATE detection.

 

Cheers,

 

Sean

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here's a question- is the ziess 25mm flange (stock, 28/90 lines) compatible with the zeiss 18mm? ie mounting holes, diameter, thickness?

 

In other words, I bought a zeiss 25 and got the extra zeiss flange to swap out from zeiss. This left me with the spare original. I had JM mill both. I thought at some point I might buy a zeiss 21, but now the 18 is out and that would be better for me.

 

can I put the 25mm flange on the 18mm?

 

They are interchangeable as you had hoped. In fact I think all but the 21/4.5 (and maybe one other lens) have the same screw hole pattern.

 

I just changed the flange that would be on the 25 onto an 18. With the acetone drop, the correct screw driver (2.5mm), a slow 1/8 turn (and then 1/8th turn back to make sure the acetone was released) all the screws came our very smoothly. I cleaned the screws and they went right back on with no problems. Painted the engravings (J. Milich did the engraving) and it all has worked flawlessly. Much easier than I expected.

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Guest guy_mancuso

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I had John make a new one and it is working very nicely , completely new mount that brings up the 28-90 framelines and coded for the WATE which the beauty is you don't have to screw around with the menu option because the default is 18mm. i would honestly go this route . I use a 58 -55 step down ring and use a Leica IR filter and no cyan drift or anything like that the only issue is I hate the hood that comes with it . So i was thinking going to a step up a 58 to 60mm use a Ir 60mm filter than take 2 or 3 60mm filter rings only and making that the hood. Than just use a 60 lens cap. have yet to do that but I like that idea.

 

Maybe i should trade a 55mm for a 60mm IR filter

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I had John make a new one and it is working very nicely , completely new mount that brings up the 28-90 framelines and coded for the WATE which the beauty is you don't have to screw around with the menu option because the default is 18mm. i would honestly go this route . I use a 58 -55 step down ring and use a Leica IR filter and no cyan drift or anything like that the only issue is I hate the hood that comes with it . So i was thinking going to a step up a 58 to 60mm use a Ir 60mm filter than take 2 or 3 60mm filter rings only and making that the hood. Than just use a 60 lens cap. have yet to do that but I like that idea.

 

Maybe i should trade a 55mm for a 60mm IR filter

 

seems like a 58mm filter would be easier, no? I know a lot of people had 55's left over.

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They are interchangeable as you had hoped. In fact I think all but the 21/4.5 (and maybe one other lens) have the same screw hole pattern.

 

I just changed the flange that would be on the 25 onto an 18. With the acetone drop, the correct screw driver (2.5mm), a slow 1/8 turn (and then 1/8th turn back to make sure the acetone was released) all the screws came our very smoothly. I cleaned the screws and they went right back on with no problems. Painted the engravings (J. Milich did the engraving) and it all has worked flawlessly. Much easier than I expected.

 

that was the 1000 dollar answer I had hoped to not hear...

 

thanks.

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Guest guy_mancuso
seems like a 58mm filter would be easier, no? I know a lot of people had 55's left over.

 

Leica does not make a 58 IR filter and down this low like the WATE you want to use the Leica since it is a little weaker than the B+W so it will clean the cyan drift better. I would not personally use the B=W down this wide. have not tested it but i know that with the WATE no question it cleans better with the Leica Filter and let's face it the firmware is tuned to the Leica filters. Trying to find a image to show how clean it cleans up

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Guest guy_mancuso
guy, how did john make a new flange for you?

 

Mine was the first one made , i sent the lens to him to design it and he made a new mount completely for it and also made one for Sean also. So i know both of us have that and maybe Alex is done now. i believe it was 125 dollars. I did post some images of it on the one thread I listed. I may have deleted the images from that test though and also Sean has a review of the lens itself but i really like it so far.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Here I stole these from my thread on my site. As you can see from the whiteboard shot also very clean across the image

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one thing to watch out for on the hood, I noticed this on my elmarit 21 was that the hood blocks part of the rangefinder patch at closer distances, you see a shadow in the patch that is the part of the leica hood cutout. Not very slick really.

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Hi Richard,

Because I am a coward and I live in the Netherlands I ordered my 25mm directly from Zeiss to be fitted with the correct bayonet by them in Oberkochen.. This only cost 60 Euros and I received the lens very quickly and perfectly calibrated (Focus on M8 is perfect) They may not code it because of patent restrictions, but I use corner fix.

Mr. Bertram Hoenlinger was very helpful and coordinated shop and service department.

mailto:hoenlinger@zeiss.de

 

Maurice

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Mine was the first one made , i sent the lens to him to design it and he made a new mount completely for it and also made one for Sean also. So i know both of us have that and maybe Alex is done now. i believe it was 125 dollars. I did post some images of it on the one thread I listed. I may have deleted the images from that test though and also Sean has a review of the lens itself but i really like it so far.

 

Yes your right Guy, i have been using all of my Zeiss lenses (including the 18) for a while with original spare Zeiss mounts perfectly milled by JM, and the results are perfect, a big up

for Mr. Milich for this great service... :-)

 

And to the ones scared of the mount swop...don't worry, it's easier than changing the tires on your car, in fact it's even easier because you won't even get your hands dirty :-)

 

(PS! I did'nt even use any aceton or nothing, just used a good screwdriver and removed

the screws gently, and refitted new ones with just a microscopic drop of locktite...perfect!)

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Guest guy_mancuso

You certainly can do that and you may want to even try a black marker. The Wate code is one black dot so pretty easy really , the Dymo label maybe a good try too since they changed the mount that is all you need left to do is code it

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Guest guy_mancuso

yes for us in the US John is the easiest solution for international users getting it from Zeiss maybe easier. i just don't like to wait so John's solution worked great for me.

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