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Posted (edited)

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WOW.

Well after a few months of going thru Flickr and lot of photos on the forums here and asking more questions than I have in a long time about Leica's and everyone's amazing responses, I've sure learned a lot. Thank you! I'm about to be a proud owner of a M8.2. Bought it from one of the forums sponsors.

I've had a Hasselblad 501CM forever and I've only shot 100 speed slide film forever. If you ever worry about the M8 having a loud shutter, shoot a Hasselblad at a wedding. The crop factor is still bugging me, but I haven't shot 35mm in so long, (R3, R8) I don't think I will notice. I don't think the M8 is the best camera the M10's and M240's files look cleaner (to me) when at or near the limit, and the limits are higher, but for now and maybe a while I think the M8 is the perfect camera for me. I just moved my shots of the M240 and M8 on to my 55" TV (when I was doing the last what will it be moment) and they look amazing in 4k, and a M8 is 4k as well, which I tend to think a lot of people forget.

What I did realize on working with the files, is that you can't crop to your hearts content. What's that slogan "shoot with intention"?

 

They're shipping the camera off tonight. Let the waiting begin.  The reason this M8, was that it just had a Leica CLA and had its sensor remapped by Leica, and a 6-month warrantee is a good thing to have as well. 

Thanks All for your help!

 

Mark

Edited by markc2
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Shooting slide film is a good tutor for digital exposure technique.  Framing-wise, shooting with intention is a good practice for anyone. 

Photography is NOT about having the latest thing - it's about whether you can make something meaningful to you, and hopefully to others, by using what you've got.

The crop factor is somewhat academic, & mainly relative to the lenses at hand.  What you see (through the vf) remains what you get.  So no big deal. 

You're left with resolution (which can be of small account), and dynamic range / iso capability.  The answer is to find the limits of your particular gear & work within them.  Unless you're an obsessive, that doesn't have to be a huge deal.  But you'll find out. 

Some frustrations / confusions are par for any course, but it sounds like you're capable of having some fun ...

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Good luck to you Mark, great post.

I've loved my first M8 so much I bought another.  My full frame is an M-P (240 series), but I still use my M8's so very much.  

One of my theories for such good images from the M8 is the natural crop factor cuts off the soft and smeary edges, corners and sides, from full frame. The APS-H sensor is very easy to get used to and the incremental sizes of lenses are standard sizes anyway.

It's easy to reduce noise...I use Light Room Classic, noise reduction...manual or AI. Works well. 

The camera's acoustic shooting noise so many complain about is a beat-up...I've had a lot of cameras far noisier; as you said a Hasselblad can be very load too.

We look forward to some pics.

All best...

Edited by david strachan
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2 hours ago, markc2 said:

...If you ever worry about the M8 having a loud shutter, shoot a Hasselblad at a wedding...

I trust that you will love your M8.

As far as the shutter-sound is concerned the M8.2 has one great advantage over the regular M8; I would thoroughly recommend setting the camera to 'Discreet' ('Discreet and Soft'?) as in that mode the only sound the camera makes at the moment of capture is a fairly silent 'click'; the re-cocking whirr only comes after the shutter button is released. This is a GREAT thing to have if one is trying to be as invisible as possible when street-shooting.

My first M-Digi was an M8 and this 'Discreet' advance possibility found on the M8.2 version was an important factor in my acquiring that incarnation of the camera. FWIW the M8.2 also has (IMO) the nicest, most pleasantly tactile covering of the M8 variants.

I wish I still had mine but somehow someone in Wetzlar lost it when it was in for some TLC. How ironic is that?

Philip.

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1 hour ago, pippy said:

As far as the shutter-sound is concerned the M8.2 has one great advantage over the regular M8; I would thoroughly recommend setting the camera to 'Discreet' ('Discreet and Soft'?) as in that mode the only sound the camera makes at the moment of capture is a fairly silent 'click'; the re-cocking whirr only comes after the shutter button is released. This is a GREAT thing to have if one is trying to be as invisible as possible when street-shooting.

In case you weren't aware, Philip, Discreet mode was added to the M8 (and M8u) through a firmware upgrade.  But I agree, I found that it's an excellent facility particularly when shooting in silent cathedrals. 🙂

Pete.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, pippy said:

 

I wish I still had mine but somehow someone in Wetzlar lost it when it was in for some TLC. How ironic is that?

Philip.

 

Many tears would have been shed over that moment. I am "assuming" they made that moment right?

Edited by markc2
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7 hours ago, markc2 said:

The crop factor is still bugging me, but I haven't shot 35mm in so long, (R3, R8) I don't think I will notice.

You will not notice (crop 1,3). The effect on DOF is far less than with APS-C. (crop 1,5)
Using the M8 will maybe affect your choice of lens FL compared to FF, but other than that it is very usable.

The fact that you 'only' have 10MP surely does not help cropping in PP. Although this is relative. The files of the M8 are so crisp and sharp (at base ISO) that it feels more like a 16MP or even 20MP camera, even compared to the CMOS Leica M sensors. You could even print a crop of only 2MP of these high quality pixels to a decent size.

The main difference with shooting film is of course that exposure needs to be treated in exactly the opposite way. Expose for the highlights, not the shadows as is needed when shooting film. Clipped highlights are not recoverable while shadows are amazingly flexible in RAW. BTW, always shoot RAW.

With current PP software you will get better results than with the ancient firmware of the M8. If you do not have experience with digital PP, then now is the moment to dive in. Obvious contenders are Adobe Lightroom and Capture One Pro, but lots of cheaper alternatives are available, including free software like Darktable and Rawtherapee.

Shooting RAW helps mitigating the limited high ISO performance of the M8. Using the HDR sliders in PP is very helpful. If you can work with layers and masks in PP, you can help it even more by selectively applying shadow corrections.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, farnz said:

In case you weren't aware, Philip, Discreet mode was added to the M8 (and M8u) through a firmware upgrade.  But I agree, I found that it's an excellent facility particularly when shooting in silent cathedrals....

Hi Pete! Actually No; I wasn't aware of that upgrade feature. Good to know if I ever fancy getting another copy. Thanks for the info!

7 hours ago, markc2 said:

Many tears would have been shed over that moment. I am "assuming" they made that moment right?

No tears, Mark, but rather a lot of...surprise...shall we say?!

Yes; Leica were very good about the situation and did what was possible - considering their limited options - to make amends. They offered me an M9 (with v2 sensor-glass) and it could be given a body-covering in the style of my choice from a selection of half-a-dozen or so different colours and textures (I decided on Black Calf Leather).

Oddly enough, were I to have been given the option, I would rather have had the M8.2 back as - strange as this will sound - it had very much become 'My' camera over the years and I considered it to be a very good friend somehow. By that time I had also acquired an M9-P so my Full-Frame needs had already been addressed.

The tale does has a very happy ending, though, but that - as they say - is another story...

😸

Philip.

Edited by pippy
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4 hours ago, dpitt said:

You will not notice (crop 1,3). The effect on DOF is far less than with APS-C. (crop 1,5)...Using the M8 will maybe affect your choice of lens FL compared to FF, but other than that it is very usable.

With current PP software you will get better results than with the ancient firmware of the M8. If you do not have experience with digital PP, then now is the moment to dive in.

There is a lot of very good advice in the whole of Dirk's thread. I have selected these bits just to add a little more from my own time / experience with the M8.

As far as the 1.3 crop goes I agree that it isn't an issue. It is only neccessary to consider the f/l of any lens to be, roughly speaking, the equivalent of one-lens-longer in FF terms. As such a 21mm is a 28mm; a 28mm is a 35mm (actually 37); either a 35mm or 40mm is a 50mm (actually 47mm / 53mm) and so on.

FWIW my own choices were to buy a 28 f2.0 and a 40 f1.4 from the Voigtlander range. As it happens the 40mm is still one of my favourite lenses to use on a FF body so that turned out to have been a great purchase.

The PP process using a digital workflow is one of my favourite parts of the whole experience. The choice of which software to use is very much a 'personal preference' situation. In addition to those mentioned by Dirk I would like to add Adobe's 'Photoshop Elements' as another alternative. Unlike the full version of Ps - which entails a monthly subscription - this is simply a 'Buy it and Use it' package. They are currently on version '(Ps E) 2024' and, in the UK, this can be had for under £60. It's probably less than that in the USA. It offers perhaps 99% of the important features found in the full version and for anyone used to developing / printing in a wet-room the skills to this digital realm are almost all completely transferrable.

Philip.

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Posted (edited)

It's so teeny!!!! The M240 is a lot thicker (relatively) than this one. Not quite M6 thin but WOW! It came with the thumbs up grip and that is worth its weight in gold!

What blows my mind is the M11 has a 60MP sensor in there. Now I can "stop" worrying about cameras and focus my ocd on lenses now!

 

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Edited by markc2
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