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Flash settings


JJJS

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Hi,

 

I bought a SL2-S and started to use a camera again to take pictures. A wonderful camera.

I am still playing around with it but one thing I cannot work out is taking flash pics with the camera. I have a SF58 (from my 240) which a hardly use/used as I find it far too big and heavy. So I bought after a long review a small Lightpix Labs, which I also wanted to use as a fill in flash.

I have set this flash to minimum output, 1/64, with the head tilted, but this still gives overexposed pictures. Only at f 16 it is acceptable. I had the camera on auto iso, but when I set it on ISO 100, it gave an exposure time of 24 seconds!! So the camera did apparently not realize a flash was mounted on it. In all three flash settings the new firmware offers.

Also the camera's manual is rather brief on using a flash.

So, how should a set my camera for proper manual flash pictures with a Lightpix?

And has anybody experience what the best settings are for the SF58? 

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you don't have to buy the SF40 or SF60 to get an exposure correct.

If you are willing to calculate basic photography. 

There are different settings for different locations and times of day, but let's suppose you are shooting a party in the evening in an indoor space with little light.

Step one is to put the camera in manual mode, set a time you can hold 1/60-1/250 and an F-stop that makes sense, if I am close to do groups of 3-4 people I would use f4-f5.6 so that everyone has some focus, and set iso to a fixed amount that gives me an exposure of 1/2 stop under, can range from 400-1600 ISO. the WB would probably set to balance the room, it it is warm K 3400

Not that the camera is set I would add a flash, in M mode you can set the power to an exposure that is correct at the distance you are shooting, and add a CTO filter if you are shooting at 3400 K. Try to keep the distance the same so that you don't change the exposure.

I think the SF58 can read the flash in "A" automatic, so you set the ISO on the flash to the same from the camera, set the F-stop on the flash to the same as the camera F-5.6 and the meter of the flash will measure the power output to match the ISO and F-stop set.

 

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Thanks for the replies!

I had not put the camera in manual mode. I thought that the camera would "know" that a flash was attached, but that was a wrong (perhaps even stupid) thought.

Would I need to do light metering? How would I know how much light is required and how much the flash should thus add? I know the relationship between iso, aperture, distance, strength and reduction flash, but surely it matters whether the room is dark or strongly lit itself.

And how would I need to set it up for a fill in flash?

I saw some video's for the Godox Junior and it all looked so simple.....:(

I was able to make some nice pictures with the SF58, but that is so much flash on top of your camera.

 

 

 

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The SL2-S *might* recognize that you attached a Leica flash to it, but I don't know if it will provide TTL metering. I've set up a profile on my camera for manual/studio flash, but it's pretty basic: ISO 100, half-stop increments, and the Flash white balance. If you set a Flash white balance and are shooting with tungsten lights around (ambient lighting, or the modeling lights on older flash units like mine), the camera will adjust the live view to resemble something like daylight, until you trigger the flash. Then you get a warmish tungsten white balance for a few seconds before it shifts to daylight WB again.

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Hey, 

 

1. make an image in m mode without flash. 
> let it be bit under exposed 

2. add the flash in manual and see what happens . 

3. don’t change to many parameters at a time! 
 

4. take a paper and write down what you do, so you keep track. 
 

The cool thing is: you can show us the images and make an image of what you have done! 
 

so we can figure out what’s going on … 

 

cheets ! 

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Hello, the big mistake has been to use your camera  setting Auto ISO,  because in the majority of the cameras this option can't be used with  flash (always the camera takes the higher ISO values). Set your camera in manual mode ,  sync speed, ISO 100, ( then 20 is your Q20 guide number) and G.N./object distance, will be your f/ stop.   

Francisco.

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Do not use auto-iso for flash. The general idea of flash power is base on your aperture, ISO and distance of your subject. Base on your post, I recommend you try Godox Lux series flash where it's has dial to guide you. For example, the photo I took here is using f/1.4, ISO 200 and 1.5 meter distance with lowest flash power for a girl, while 1/15 shutter speed for background ambient light. 

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  • 3 months later...

Great suggestions, one thing I'm hoping to overcome is on manual mode with 200 to 800 iso, aperture 2.8 to 4.0, shutter at up to1/200 as I suppress the shutter to focus the screen goes from a clear view of the subject then to almost black.  This is not in an extremely dark environment, using a godox lux junior

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Look at the exposure preview setting.  On my SL601 it can be set to PASM or PAS (I assume it’s the same for SL2).  These are the modes in which exposure preview is used.  Select PAS (removing M-manual).  And you should always see a bright screen when shooting in M mode.

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I don't know if the OP is still following this thread, but the SF-58 works beautifully on my SL and SL2.  Did a shoot today with the SL.  Camera fully manual (ISO 400, aperture f5.6, shutter 1/125).  The SL was set to PAS exposure preview (not necessary with SL2 since it automatically changes to PAS when a Leica dedicated flash is detected). SF-58 in the hot shoe set to TTL with flash head vertical for bounced flash.  Nicely exposed indoor images with soft shadows.

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Depends on the environment. 

If I can bounce flash I'll set my camera to manual at the highest flash sync (SL3 1/200) set the aperture you want (F2 for single, F4-5.6 for group shots). My flash, that is a profoto a10 is at 8/10, then I'll adjust my iso to set the exposure. So basically my shutter and flash power stays the same, my iso is set to my thumb dial to set the exposure. 

If I'm still over exposed at iso 100, then I'll dial back my flash power. 

Direct outdoor flash would be 2/10 power. 

TTL doesn't work on certain skin tones and backgrounds, learning manual flash is a must. 

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20 hours ago, kkcsm said:

Look at the exposure preview setting.  On my SL601 it can be set to PASM or PAS (I assume it’s the same for SL2).  These are the modes in which exposure preview is used.  Select PAS (removing M-manual).  And you should always see a bright screen when shooting in M mode.

Thank you for the suggestion - very helpful

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