My misstake on loading film from bulk loading

[dickgillberg]

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Hi, I've done a great misstake when I load my film canisters. When I was out shooting the tape that I used to fix the film to the canister got loose and the result have been that I couldn't rewind the film. So frustrating. I tried back home to unload the film but it was hard in the dark so that roll of film was destroyed. 

I have two questions. What tape do you use and what to use to clean the residue from my crappy tape on the film guides in my camera would be.

Thanks!

 

[Pyrogallol]

Either ordinary sellotape or masking tape. Clean off adhesive with white spirit or thinners or spray furniture polish. Cellulose thinners might remove paint as well.

what camera were you using? It is usually easy to remove a film in the dark if you are used to film processing in a darkroom. Make sure you have set the rewind lever/button and have something to put the film in. 

Edited June 9, 2023 by Pyrogallol

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[TomB_tx]

I've used paper surgical tape. Be sure to stick to one side of the film, wrap completely around the spool and stick to the other side of the tape.

Or use a Leitz FILCA or IXMOO cassette that needs no tape - a "one way" roller in the spool slot lets a pointed leader enter, but not pull out.

I also tend to load a few more frames than I'll use, and not advance until the end is reached.

Edited June 9, 2023 by TomB_tx

[250swb]

Tamiya modelling masking tape is best, sort of an orange yellow colour if you search for it. It is thin, sticky, but leaves no residue. Don't use Sellotape (residue, and can't tear reliably when you load it onto a reel), or regular masking tape (thickness so can catch in the camera, residue).

[stray cat]

6 hours ago, 250swb said:

Tamiya modelling masking tape is best, sort of an orange yellow colour if you search for it. It is thin, sticky, but leaves no residue. Don't use Sellotape (residue, and can't tear reliably when you load it onto a reel), or regular masking tape (thickness so can catch in the camera, residue).

Thanks Steve, I've had the problem described as well, so just ordered some 18mm Tamiya tape.

[Pyrogallol]

9 hours ago, 250swb said:

Tamiya modelling masking tape is best, sort of an orange yellow colour if you search for it. It is thin, sticky, but leaves no residue. Don't use Sellotape (residue, and can't tear reliably when you load it onto a reel), or regular masking tape (thickness so can catch in the camera, residue).

I will try some Tamiya tape though I have never had a problem with the other tapes.

[dickgillberg]

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13 hours ago, Pyrogallol said:

Either ordinary sellotape or masking tape. Clean off adhesive with white spirit or thinners or spray furniture polish. Cellulose thinners might remove paint as well.

what camera were you using? It is usually easy to remove a film in the dark if you are used to film processing in a darkroom. Make sure you have set the rewind lever/button and have something to put the film in. 

Thank you. I used my M6, that’s why it was hard.

[Pyrogallol]

2 hours ago, dickgillberg said:

Thank you. I used my M6, that’s why it was hard.

Yes, I can see if the sticky tape got dragged across the film gate. Don't use anything too strong a cleaner if the sutter blinds got adhesive on them, wouldn't want to damage them. At least with an M6 you can open the back, it gets more tricky with a screw body.

[dickgillberg]

I’ve ordered the Tamiya tape thanks for that I will try it.

The sticky tape only got on to the film gate so it was fairly easy with some isopropanol. Don’t want to do it again though.

 

[dpitt]

On 6/10/2023 at 12:38 PM, Pyrogallol said:

Yes, I can see if the sticky tape got dragged across the film gate. Don't use anything too strong a cleaner if the sutter blinds got adhesive on them, wouldn't want to damage them. At least with an M6 you can open the back, it gets more tricky with a screw body.

One of the best and least aggressive cleaning fluids to clean glue residue from stickers and such is what we call in dutch 'wasbenzine'. I do not know the exact name in English. It is ultra refined gasoline sold for cleaning grease stains from clothes and such (works fine for oil stains on clothing). You can find it in a good super market in the cleaning products section or in a paint store.

Another application is for removing writing and stains made by permanent markers and ballpoint pens.

Lighter fluid would also be fine for removing glue. Both products do are safe for plastics and rubber as well as for metals, wood and glass and less agressive than isopropyl alcohol.

 

Edited June 15, 2023 by dpitt

[williamj]

I use gaffer tape which can be torn to the correct size by feel in the dark and leaves no residue. I use the gaffa brand which is made of plastic. And yes I attach it to the end of the film and wrap it right around the spindle of the cassette.