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Best jpeg settings for M11 and iDR


Shavou

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I’m very disappointed with the JPEG’s out of camera and was wondering whether anyone was able to get a nice colour look out of it? 

I always shoot in dng for professional work but sometimes (family/holiday occasions) I’d rather shoot in small jpegs to be able to share photos immediately and take less space on HDD. 

Any settings to recommend for good colour photography? I’m talking about changing the contrast, saturation, etc settings of the jpeg profile. Anyone ?

Also, I find it quite strange that Leica had not added iDR (intelligent dynamic range) to the M11 (present in the Q2 and SL2) which in my opinion helps getting nice jpegs straight out of camera …

Edited by Shavou
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Maybe try these JPG Settings:
Noise Reduction +1: Noise reduction is rather weak at default level.
Film Style: Std.

Then go to "Film style settings" and choose Standard:
Contrast -1: This prevents the shadows from becoming too dark.
Sharpness -1: The default setting (0) oversharpens the image.

But my most important advice would be: Make a gray card white balance before you shoot, because the automatic white balance and all the other settings in white balance (Daylight, Cloudy, Shadow...) produce a magenta cast and most of the time a blue cast in addition. If you manage to get a correct white balance before you release the shutter, you will get very nice JPGs at not too high ISOs. 

 

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I am sure that opening a DNG in about any postprocessing program and hitting "auto" will give better results in a minimum of time, especially if you create your own preset to your taste.

And if I may be contrary: I use an iPhone for that kind of work.

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5 minutes ago, jaapv said:

I am sure that opening a DNG in about any postprocessing program and hitting "auto" will give better results in a minimum of time, especially if you create your own preset to your taste.

And if I may be contrary: I use an iPhone for that kind of work.

Thanks but I hate the auto setting in Lightroom. The image becomes totally flat and looses the character and the exposure it had when shot…

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13 minutes ago, don daniel said:

Maybe try these JPG Settings:
Noise Reduction +1: Noise reduction is rather weak at default level.
Film Style: Std.

Then go to "Film style settings" and choose Standard:
Contrast -1: This prevents the shadows from becoming too dark.
Sharpness -1: The default setting (0) oversharpens the image.

But my most important advice would be: Make a gray card white balance before you shoot, because the automatic white balance and all the other settings in white balance (Daylight, Cloudy, Shadow...) produce a magenta cast and most of the time a blue cast in addition. If you manage to get a correct white balance before you release the shutter, you will get very nice JPGs at not too high ISOs. 

 

Thanks. I’ll give it a go!

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4 hours ago, Shavou said:

Thanks but I hate the auto setting in Lightroom. The image becomes totally flat and looses the character and the exposure it had when shot…

I'm am not a LR expert -rarely use it- but I seem to recall that you can set your own default settings to your taste.

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So many variables we don't know here!

Not least of which: how are the images that are being judged here for color balance, dynamic range, etc., bring viewed? On the screen on the back of the camera? On a laptop? With what display settings? On a monitor running off a desktop or a laptop? Again, with what display settings? Under what conditions?

It's a rare monitor that is capable of reproducing the dynamic range the sensor is capable of capturing (and that's before we begin to consider exposure). So, how are the settings on the monitor dealing with that limited dynamic range? To preserve highlights and crush blacks, or to stretch blacks and let highlights blow out where they will? What Gamma settings? Color space? Light level in the viewing room? Change a couple of these things at the same time and it's easy to have no idea what's what anymore. Calibration is a process of compromises and judgement calls that depend upon working conditions and on intended mode of output. And calibration really matters. 

Just as a suggestion, and of course one's mileage may vary: it's perhaps best to come to terms with the degree of matching between the screen on the back of the camera and the monitor being used to judge these things before diving into the jpg settings...

 

Edited by DadDadDaddyo
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5 hours ago, jaapv said:

I'm am not a LR expert -rarely use it- but I seem to recall that you can set your own default settings to your taste.

There are no defaults for Auto settings in LrC, but I'm afraid I have to disagree with @Shavou that choosing Auto in LrC yields flat images.

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45 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Ah. I thought it was similar to ACR. 
 

It is similar to ACR. However, we may have a misunderstanding. Which default settings for "Auto" can you set in ACR? AFAIK Auto works with AI without any user-adjustable parameters.

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49 minutes ago, Shavou said:

Auto in Lightroom defeats the purpose of taking good photos in camera. It kills the highlights and raises shadows creating a false HDR scene  that was never there when the photo was taken !

I have not observed that. Can you share examples? Here is before and after clicking Auto. Typically, I do not use Auto, except sometimes as a starting point (linear profiles) or for review, to quickly adjust lightness.

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Edited by SrMi
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13 minutes ago, SrMi said:

It is similar to ACR. However, we may have a misunderstanding. Which default settings for "Auto" can you set in ACR? AFAIK Auto works with AI without any user-adjustable parameters.

Create a preset and set it as default.

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Like you, I find it quite acceptable  If it is a bit too flat one touch of the dehaze slider. In your example it nicely removed the blue cast. Much better than fiddling with camera settings 

One cause of flatness can be consistent under exposure. 

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20 hours ago, Shavou said:

I’m very disappointed with the JPEG’s out of camera and was wondering whether anyone was able to get a nice colour look out of it? 

I always shoot in dng for professional work but sometimes (family/holiday occasions) I’d rather shoot in small jpegs to be able to share photos immediately and take less space on HDD. 

Any settings to recommend for good colour photography? I’m talking about changing the contrast, saturation, etc settings of the jpeg profile. Anyone ?

Also, I find it quite strange that Leica had not added iDR (intelligent dynamic range) to the M11 (present in the Q2 and SL2) which in my opinion helps getting nice jpegs straight out of camera …

Just shoot raw and when you get it to your iPhone or iPad hit the edit and “auto” adjust tool and you’re done. 

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