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New M6 article by Jono.


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4 hours ago, Huss said:

It popped up here because Jono's review of the M6 showed that his too scratches film.  

 

And where in his review did he state this? 'It popped up here because Jono's review of the M6 showed that his too scratches film.  "

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The issues with Leica NJ are well known, and discussed frequently in other threads over the years.

My earlier comment was perhaps not so clear.  @jonoslack posted the original images without noticing the scratches, and I suspect that I have scratches on some of my negatives as well (over 50 years of 35mm and 6x6 negatives, taken with a variety of cameras).  I'm sure if I went back and looked I could find them.  But, I'd have to go looking.

Am I excusing what sounds like a fault? Not really.  There seem to be two issues at play - Leica NJ still performing to expectations, and a pressure plate fault?  I don't think we really know what's at play.

From my own experience with an MP and my (current) M-A is that how I load and rewind film can be critical.  With my Nikons and other film cameras of the past, I used to wind the film back into the canister after loading the film so I could be sure that I had loaded it correctly - with a bit of tension on the film, I could see the rewind crank advancing as I wound the film on.

With the M-A, I stopped this practice, as it seemed to put too much tension on the film.  I prefer to have the film advancing smoothly, which is easier without winding the film back.  Also, I've noticed rewinding can put a lot of tension on the film, so I am careful when rewinding.

I have no idea if this affects scratching on the film, but it is my practice, and I haven't noticed any scratches.  I'm reluctant to go looking for them ...

One thing which would be interesting would be to know if the scratches are on the emulsion side of the film (which would indicate tension during advance or rewind) or on the back of the film (which would reinforce the pressure plate suggestion).

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Posted (edited)
On 3/6/2023 at 12:24 AM, IkarusJohn said:

One thing which would be interesting would be to know if the scratches are on the emulsion side of the film (which would indicate tension during advance or rewind) or on the back of the film (which would reinforce the pressure plate suggestion).

The recently reported scratching has all been non-emulsion side.

On 3/6/2023 at 12:24 AM, IkarusJohn said:

From my own experience with an MP and my (current) M-A is that how I load and rewind film can be critical.  With my Nikons and other film cameras of the past, I used to wind the film back into the canister after loading the film so I could be sure that I had loaded it correctly - with a bit of tension on the film, I could see the rewind crank advancing as I wound the film on.

With the M-A, I stopped this practice, as it seemed to put too much tension on the film.  I prefer to have the film advancing smoothly, which is easier without winding the film back.  Also, I've noticed rewinding can put a lot of tension on the film, so I am careful when rewinding.

The problem with not taking up the slack with the rewind knob is you may not figure out the film is not advancing until you're almost five shots into the roll. Dropping in the film and placing the leader exactly as shown on the diagram results in the film not actually loading far too often to trust your first few shots to faith. I want to see the red dots on the rewind knob move.

Edited by jaapv
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40 minutes ago, hdmesa said:

The problem with not taking up the slack with the rewind knob is you may not figure out the film is not advancing until you're almost five shots into the roll. Dropping in the film and placing the leader exactly as shown on the diagram results in the film not actually loading far too often to trust your first few shots to faith. I want to see the red dots on the rewind knob move.

I also like to see the red dots move; however, following the loading instructions has not resulted in misleading has not been the problem I feared.  Actually, the loading is very reliable, if you follow the instructions ...

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3 hours ago, Mikep996 said:

"the alignment rollers are on the emulsion side"

Are there actual "rollers" in the camera?  I assumed there was just a smooth surface that the film moved across.  

On another subject, what the heck is "gaslighting?"  Sounds insulting to me, like "fan boy" or "member." ;)

From the 1940s play and films Gaslight. The British one is better than the Hollywood version (with Boyer and Bergman), which is also good. 

There is a recent remake too which I have not seen. 

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13 hours ago, Huss said:

Yes let's keep quiet about it.  Very useful.

Hush hush so we feel better about our purchases.  

"Look at me  - I have a Leica!"

I'm obviously not saying that you or anyone else should not inform the forum of the problem. What I am saying is essentially the same as @LocalHero1953 – it's about the screechy tone, lack of courtesy, and derailing of unrelated threads. Your response to my post is also an example of the pointless shouty sarcasm that characterises much of the current discussion.

The problem doesn't necessitate a running commentary across multiple threads nor do I think Jono's photos should be forensically examined by third parties and then he be told that his camera definitely has a scratching problem, irrespective of what he thinks (or is currently bothered about). I think it has even been insinuated that Jono is either in denial or being deliberately evasive about the problem.

I have had quite a few problems with Leica cameras and lenses over the years. Some of the problems I have mentioned here but I find the most effective way to resolve a problem is to have a polite but firm dialogue with Leica in Germany and/or the retailer.

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Any more OT posts and  moderating measures will be taken including closing the thread. Complaints about the camera can be made in the appropriate running thread, as there is absolutely no need to drag a respected reviewer and member into this. Any fighting will be dealt with. This is not a kindergarten playground. 

 

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1 hour ago, jaapv said:

Any more OT posts and  moderating measures will be taken including closing the thread. Complaints about the camera can be made in the appropriate running thread, as there is absolutely no need to drag a respected reviewer and member into this. Any fighting will be dealt with. This is not a kindergarten playground. 

 

I totally agree.

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On 3/6/2023 at 9:31 AM, IkarusJohn said:

I also like to see the red dots move; however, following the loading instructions has not resulted in misleading has not been the problem I feared.  Actually, the loading is very reliable, if you follow the instructions ...

it is quite reliable, but the problem lays on how i cut my film leader when bulk rolling, if it's too short (allegedly) it would unhook.. do you think there's really more tension when wind the film back after loading? it could be the problem why my MP might chocked a bit (not everytime) every few frames when advancing, not bugging but it's there 

as stated earlier, i always love to see the red dot indication engaged

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7 hours ago, jakontil said:

it is quite reliable, but the problem lays on how i cut my film leader when bulk rolling, if it's too short (allegedly) it would unhook.. do you think there's really more tension when wind the film back after loading? it could be the problem why my MP might chocked a bit (not everytime) every few frames when advancing, not bugging but it's there 

as stated earlier, i always love to see the red dot indication engaged

I stopped tensioning the film to address the problem of the cogs stripping the perforations when I have poorly loaded the film.

I’ve come to the conclusion that tensioning the film is pointless …

 

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16 hours ago, jakontil said:

it is quite reliable, but the problem lays on how i cut my film leader when bulk rolling, if it's too short (allegedly) it would unhook.. do you think there's really more tension when wind the film back after loading? it could be the problem why my MP might chocked a bit (not everytime) every few frames when advancing, not bugging but it's there 

as stated earlier, i always love to see the red dot indication engaged

Make sure you explicitly follow Leica’s very simple instructions on how to load the film.  Do not listen to other’s advice.  The only time I had issues like yours is when starting out I did not trust Leica’s instructions as it seemed too easy (!).  When I changed to Leica’s instructions - shown w that picture in the camera base - all my film advance issues went away!

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5 minutes ago, Huss said:

Make sure you explicitly follow Leica’s very simple instructions on how to load the film.  Do not listen to other’s advice.  The only time I had issues like yours is when starting out I did not trust Leica’s instructions as it seemed too easy (!).  When I changed to Leica’s instructions - shown w that picture in the camera base - all my film advance issues went away!

I agree 100% once I stopped following bad advice and used the Leica method I stopped worrying if I'd loaded correctly and have not had a bad load that way. I can even do it with my eyes closed now and find it quicker than loading my Canon F1n.

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Huss said:

Make sure you explicitly follow Leica’s very simple instructions on how to load the film.  Do not listen to other’s advice.  The only time I had issues like yours is when starting out I did not trust Leica’s instructions as it seemed too easy (!).  When I changed to Leica’s instructions - shown w that picture in the camera base - all my film advance issues went away!

Exactly huss, it’s just when im bulk loading my own, i might cut my film leader a little too short, so it was unhooked 

but no problem with original cut film stoks 

only thing is that anxiety without knowing the red dots turning, hence tensioning the film back, especially with my own bulk

Edited by jakontil
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24 minutes ago, jakontil said:

Exactly huss, it’s just when im bulk loading my own, i might cut my film leader a little too short, so it was unhooked 

but no problem with original cut film stoks 

only thing is that anxiety without knowing the red dots turning, hence tensioning the film back, especially with my own bulk

Ahh, gotcha!  Yeah, for the loading to work correctly, the leader needs to be cut the same way as regular off the shelf film.

That is the advantage of the M3 way (and pretty much most non M cameras) - you can just jam the leader in there and you are good.

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The Leica dudes know (or knew) how to write instructions. Every Leica I've loaded, it's so easy when you follow the instructions. The screw mount cameras, I have one of the ABLON leader cutting templates, the Leica made one is awesome, but there's others out there. Cut the leader as directed, leave 2 sprocket holes exposed on the cut out side, attach the leader to the spool, then simply drop the setup into the camera, put on the baseplate, advance a couple frames, then tighten up the rewind knob a bit 

Butter! M's are easy too. Hardest part for me was learning that I should follow the instructions explicitly!

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