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replacement part for Leica lens hood 12526


romualdo

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One of the press tabs from my Elmarit 28/Cron 35 lens hood (12526) has fallen out - see pic - it looks like a small piece of spring metal has broken off one end

Can this be sourced as a spare part - also, it appears that it would be difficult to reinsert with both ends in place (replacement one)

I can reinsert it but it's not stable & likely to fall out while using the lens/hood

I considered glueing it back in (carefully) but that would then be a permanent/irreversible situation

Has anyone experienced this same issue?

 

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Edited by romualdo
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Contact Leica before using glue. Leica does not like it if things break by normal use. They usually design (mechanical) things for eternity. If you get lucky they might send you a new hood in exchange for your old one.

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1 hour ago, dpitt said:

Contact Leica before using glue. Leica does not like it if things break by normal use. They usually design (mechanical) things for eternity. If you get lucky they might send you a new hood in exchange for your old one.

 

great idea - hadn't thought of that, maybe because this hood is no longer in production AFAIK

should I contact Leica Australia (where I live) or Germany - will it make any difference?

Edited by romualdo
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vor 21 Minuten schrieb romualdo:

 

great idea - hadn't thought of that, maybe because this hood is no longer in production AFAIK

should I contact Leica Australia (where I live) or Germany - will it make any difference?

I don't know about Leica Australia, but the German CS to my experience is friendly and helpful-- why not start there and give them a call.

Looking at your picture the two "noses" of the plastic piece covering the spring seems to be broken off at one side. Did you find that broken piece ? You might try to re-attach that with some epoxy glue.  I wouldn't glue the cover directly onto the spring since that might impair the functioning. 

 

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4 hours ago, Kl@usW. said:

I don't know about Leica Australia, but the German CS to my experience is friendly and helpful-- why not start there and give them a call.

Looking at your picture the two "noses" of the plastic piece covering the spring seems to be broken off at one side. Did you find that broken piece ? You might try to re-attach that with some epoxy glue.  I wouldn't glue the cover directly onto the spring since that might impair the functioning. 

 

never did find the broken piece, unfortunately

Yes, that was my reservation regarding the potential glueing

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7 hours ago, romualdo said:

should I contact Leica Australia (where I live) or Germany - will it make any difference?

Germany. They have the final word. And they have been most helpful. I once got an offer to replace the covering of my Digilux 2 for free. My D2 was abiut 7 years old then.  But I could at the time not part with it for the time required, and I think 10 years later the deal will be of the table 😉

Also, I had a broken plastic part (in the battery compartment) in my X2 about 5 years ago, and they sent it with instructions for me how to replace it myself without any charge. The camera was about 3 years out of warranty at the time.

Both cases are proof of the great service Leica provides even for products that are not top of the line like the M, S or SL. In over 40 years, I never encountered this service from any high end product, not in camera's, cars, hi-fi...
Maybe some of the closest were in high end hi-fi, but their service was not free this long out of warranty.

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On 1/27/2023 at 5:10 AM, romualdo said:

One of the press tabs from my Elmarit 28/Cron 35 lens hood (12526) has fallen out...I considered glueing it back in...but that would then be a permanent/irreversible situation...

Strange problem to have encountered.

Just a few questions as to the 'glue it together' option; would there be any chance whatsoever that you might want to reverse the process? Surely if the tab works normally once glued together then your problems are solved? Do you ever envisage any future need to disassemble the hood to its component parts?

Looking at the image my guess (and please correct me if I'm mistaken!) is that the inner part of the tab is made of metal to allow for the 'spring' concept to work and the cover (with the broken leg) is plastic. AFAICT there is no reason why the two parts cannot be glued together permanently in any case.

Were I to find myself in your position (I have the same hood) my first act would be to see whether the plastic tab will go back into place easily enough. If so then, starting again, a drop of super-glue carefully applied; the non-broken leg of the tab fed into place under the slot-wall and slip the cover over the 'core' of the protruding tab.

Philip.

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If you do decide to glue then be very selective about the glue you use.  I recall a long thread on this forum some years ago about a member's lens being permanently haze damaged by glue fumes.  As far as I remember it wasn't an exotic glue but a commonly available multi-purpose glue.

Pete.

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5 hours ago, pippy said:

Strange problem to have encountered.

Just a few questions as to the 'glue it together' option; would there be any chance whatsoever that you might want to reverse the process? Surely if the tab works normally once glued together then your problems are solved? Do you ever envisage any future need to disassemble the hood to its component parts?

Looking at the image my guess (and please correct me if I'm mistaken!) is that the inner part of the tab is made of metal to allow for the 'spring' concept to work and the cover (with the broken leg) is plastic. AFAICT there is no reason why the two parts cannot be glued together permanently in any case.

Were I to find myself in your position (I have the same hood) my first act would be to see whether the plastic tab will go back into place easily enough. If so then, starting again, a drop of super-glue carefully applied; the non-broken leg of the tab fed into place under the slot-wall and slip the cover over the 'core' of the protruding tab.

Philip.

I wasn't worried about reversibility that much but glueing (or accidentally overglueing) it with epoxy or superglue then rendering it unusable - the glue will restrict or totally block the movement

My initial thoughts were to glue but the plastic tab does not sit flush with the metal spring - there is a cavity (hollow - what makes contact are the two tab ends) so glueing is not that simple

It does fit back in nicely but the end with the missing tab projects out a bit further and makes it easier to "drop" out.

Also, I just received a reply from Don (DAG) - he doesn't have that part & neither does Leica America according to him

Edited by romualdo
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4 hours ago, farnz said:

If you do decide to glue then be very selective about the glue you use.  I recall a long thread on this forum some years ago about a member's lens being permanently haze damaged by glue fumes.  As far as I remember it wasn't an exotic glue but a commonly available multi-purpose glue.

Pete.

Don't use Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue in the US). It will off gas to permanently haze optics. I doubt it would matter on a hood, but better safe than sorry.

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It's hard to judge from a photo, but if you need to take the glue option I would start with something like melted glue or even blue tack. Even a bit of transparent silicone would maybe do. Always let it dry out for a day before using it near your lens.
If none of these feel like it will hold you can always try the non-removable stuff.

Edited by dpitt
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17 hours ago, 84bravo said:

Don't use Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue in the US). It will off gas to permanently haze optics. I doubt it would matter on a hood, but better safe than sorry.

Didn't know about the off-gassing of Cyanoacrylate Super-Glues affecting glass surfaces; that's good to know so thanks for posting the info, 84bravo. Then again; if the hood wasn't attached onto the lens until the curing process had been fully completed would there be much risk?

I don't know one way or another; just asking those who will undoubtedly know a shed-load more about this stuff than I do myself!

Philip.

Edited by pippy
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3 hours ago, pippy said:

Didn't know about the off-gassing of Cyanoacrylate Super-Glues affecting glass surfaces; that's good to know so thanks for posting the info, 84bravo. Then again; if the hood wasn't attached onto the lens until the curing process had been fully completed would there be much risk?

I don't know one way or another; just asking those who will undoubtedly know a shed-load more about this stuff than I do myself!

Philip.

Cyanoacrylate is used to detect fingerprints deposited on glass. I saw this in practice with a local police department processing a crime scene where a jeweler had been killed during a robbery in his store. They tented the display cases and then set a dish with cyanoacrylate inside. The off gassing deposits on the fingerprints on glass surfaces, revealing the fingerprints. When I had my lab, we used to process the film the evidence techs of several local police departments took of crime scenes. Interesting doesn’t begin to describe some of the things we’d see!

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Looking at your photo, it also appears that the opening in the shade for the tab also has a crack on the left side. This could cause some problems as well. One solution would be to get another hood with the same press tabs to use as a donor for another tab cover. The IUFOO 12575 hood for the 90 and 135 Elmar lenses is a good candidate for this. The only down side is the tab cover is most likely silver. You would have to take the inner ring out of the hood to access the spring bar to put the tab cover on. Relatively simple, but takes some patience. Any competent service person could do this as well. Any hood with the spring tabs that has a 39mm filter size should be a potential donor, and there are tons of them out there, and only the tabs need to be in good shape, the hood can be trashed.

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I once split the hood of a Canon 24-105, fixed it with glue and tape, lasted for years until I sold the equipment. For the OP's hood, as long as aesthetics do not matter, one could insert the broken tab and then perhaps glue an elastic band on both sides, loose and tight enough to let the use of the tab. Call the new part: 12526/R (for Romualdo).

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