Learning the M11

[Corius]

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Hi,

I have a Q2 and have purchased an M11 with 35mm lux FLE which should arrive tomorrow. I'm new to rangefinder cameras and I was wondering if someone had advice on the easiest way to get familiar with the rangefinder and manual focussing

I understand that this is a skill that has to be learned so wanted to make sure I don't make things too hard for myself.

Thanks for any and all advice

[maxpower]

It is definitely something you have to do and learn, the ghost image works fine generally but it did introduce something new to me: your focal point will pretty much always be in the center. I wasn't used to that. The ghost image also works best with good contrast changes/clear edges. To move focus elsewhere you focus and recompose, but in recomposing it is possible your focus gets slightly off - especially with shallow DoF like you get on 1.4. The more you use it the more you'll get used to it.

Remember, it's digital, maybe dedicate some time to taking plenty of test pictures, check result, delete and repeat! Static objects are obviously easier than (fast) moving targets when starting out.

No secrets though. This is all comments from someone who started with RF this year as well so take everything with grain of salt

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[Telecaster]

I had the same journey: Started with a Q2 and then M11. Now also an MP 🙂

Make sure you check out tutorials about Zone Focussing like this one: https://youtu.be/AA1DASWrR38

It's very strange to do at first when you come from an autofocus camera. And don't worry if the first few days with the camera are a bit frustrating... it's a very different way of shooting.

But once you get it a rangefinder camera is a lot of fun and with zone focussing also very fast!!

Enjoy!!

Edited November 30, 2022 by Telecaster

[Stef63]

Nailing the focus with a rangefinder is something that is relatively easy to learn, if your eyesight is ok.  

The bigger challenge - at least that was the case to me when I started with the M9 - is getting used to the frameline concept. With wideangle lenses the challenge is not so big (so you wil be ok with a 35), but once you go longer than 50mm… to be honest, after more than a decade use of rangefinders I still prefer the visoflex in this range of focal lengths.  Never was able to compose correctly or what I had in mind with a 75 or 90 for example.

Good luck and congrats with the M11. 

[IkarusJohn]

Well, the first step is to remember to take the lens cap off!

There are a number of decisions you will have made in advance - ISO (Auto or manual setting); white balance (Auto, set with grey card or a fixed value); exposure mode (multi-field, spot or centre-weighted); exposure compensation (I tend to set -2/3 as a default); and aperture priority or manual setting for shutter speed.  There are others, like bracketing etc which you tend to set and forget.

You then have a routine - first, aperture for depth of field, shutter setting, check for exposure etc, and focus and (re)compose.  I’m sure you will have done all this a thousand times or more with your Q2.  For me, the most important decision is where to put the camera and how to compose - I see too many images without a subject, and without apparent thought.  The thing I love about the M system is it makes me think about the things that matter.  I also try to reduce the variables to what I need, and to limit the decisions the camera is making for me - everything manual.

For focusing, developing a sense of where the focusing tab on the lens is can be very helpful.  I return the aperture to wide open and the tab to infinity after every image, so I’m starting from the same place every time.  You will find that you move the tab as you raise your camera after a while.  It’s a lot easier if you can find a vertical line for focusing (the side of a check, an eye, a tooth, a tree -anything with a contrast edge, provided it’s in the depth of field).

Try not to get into the habit of focusing back and forward, if you can.  Try to develop the sense of going straight to focus and taking the image.  For fine adjustment, you can move you head back and forth slightly rather than making endless fine adjustments with the focusing tab

A lot of people focus and recompose.  This can be hit and miss, as the plane of best focus will move behind the point you’ve meticulously focused on as you rotate your camera.  You can compensate for this by moving your head back slightly, but there’s no science to it …

Ultimately, it’s fun rather than perfection.

[IkarusJohn]

Just one other thought - the rangefinder mechanism is designed to achieve the best focus, regardless of aperture or focal length.

So, with wide angle lenses, even fast ultra-wides, your best plane of focus will be pretty accurate as the spot you’re focusing on is a small part of the image with an inherently forgiving depth of field.  Conversely, with longer lenses (50mm on) the depth of field is inherently shallower and the focusing patch represents a larger proportion of the image.

In practical terms, you will still be trying to achieve the best plane of focus, but the tolerance of the system decreases with increasing focal length.  Some will use the EVF for critical images; I prefer to use a 1.4x magnifier for 50mm and longer (particualrly for fast lenses like the 50 Noctilux and 75 Summilux).  I’m not sure if Leica has re-issued the magnifiers, but mine only fit my M9 based Monochrom.  The eye-relief on the M10 and M11 based cameras have a larger diameter eye-piece, so my magnifier won’t fit my M10-D …

Edited November 30, 2022 by IkarusJohn

[Telecaster]

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vor einer Stunde schrieb IkarusJohn:

Well, the first step is to remember to take the lens cap off!

LOL - yes actually a good point!! 🙂

[Kwesi]

2 hours ago, Corius said:

Hi,

I have a Q2 and have purchased an M11 with 35mm lux FLE which should arrive tomorrow. I'm new to rangefinder cameras and I was wondering if someone had advice on the easiest way to get familiar with the rangefinder and manual focussing

I understand that this is a skill that has to be learned so wanted to make sure I don't make things too hard for myself.

Thanks for any and all advice

Welcome to the M club!

Here is a good exercise.

Grab your favorite model and start with headd and shoulder portraits. Using the eyes as a focal point, superimpose the ghost and actual image  without going over the mark and shoot. As others have said try not to second guess yourself too much as you superimpose the two images. Check your results in the back of the M11 by tapping on the eyes. this will bring you to 100% view. Rinse ad repeat until you feel fairly confident. Try this exercise at 1.4 and f2. next go to a full body portrait and see how you do. then step outside and shoot.

Enjoy! the M and 35 is a great combo !

[jaapv]

Well, yes, it is in our FAQ Thread, along with many other intertesting factoids

 

  

On 7/7/2010 at 12:44 AM, jaapv said:

Question: I come from an autofocus camera background. What is the best way to get good focus on an M camera?

 

The M(x) works the same way as any rangefinder camera, the central patch in the viewfinder is your focusing tool.

It is important to look through the viewfinder in the optical axis. Looking into the camera skewed will result in inaccurate focus.

 

The first thing to do is to ascertain that you can see the rangefinder patch properly. A correct match between the rangefinder and your eye is even more important than it is using an SLR.

Leica sells corrective diopter lenses. Determining which one you need - if any- can be done by going to your optician and holding his try-out lenses between your eye and the viewfinder. The one that allows you to see the rangefinder patch and framelines sharply is the correct one. Order the nearest value from Leica. In a pinch you can use over-the-counter reading glasses for this test. If your eyes need special corrections, you can use your spectacles, provided you can see clearly at 2 metres distance ( the virtual distance of the rangefinder patch). Note that the background will be at background distance,so your eye should ideally be able to accomodate over the distance differential. However, there is some tolerance here.

 

For special cases there are viewfinder magnifiers. They can help, especially with longer and fast lenses and they can give confidence, but they can also be not very useful; they cannot correct errors in the focusing mechanism or your eye, in fact they magnify them.

Also, one loses contrast and brightness.

Leica offers a 1.25x one and a 1.4x. These need diopter correction like the camera, but often of a different value than the camera viewfinder.

 

There are also third-party magnifiers, sold by Japan Exposures, that include a variable diopter correction. 1.15x and 1.35x. For patent reasons they cannot be sold in the USA and Germany for use on a Leica camera, but they can be purchased for use on for instance a rifle scope.

Basically, for an experienced user, magnifiers are not needed and will only lower contrast and brightness, but many users do like and use them.

 

Once the viewfinder is corrected optimally, there are three methods of focusing, in ascending order of difficulty aka training.

 

1. The broken line method. Look for a vertical line in the image and bring it together in the rangefinder patch to be continuous.

 

2. The coincidence method. Look for a pattern in the image and bring it together to coincide. This may lead to errors with repeating patterns.

 

3. The contrast method. Once you have focus by method 1. or 2. a small adjustment will cause the rangefinder patch to "jump" into optimum contrast. At that point you have the most precise focussing adjustment.

 

Side remarks:

 

If you try focusing on a subject emitting polarized light like a reflection it may happen that the polarizing effect of the prism system in the rangefinder will blot out the contrast in the rangefinder patch, making focusing difficult. In that case rotate the camera 90 degrees to focus.

 

[Jeff S]

Be sure that your eyes are first corrected for any astigmatism.  Some also benefit from a diopter correction.  If so, one can test options at a Leica dealer or find a local optician that stocks free trial diopters.  

One can also test to ensure that the system is properly calibrated by comparing RF focusing to Live View focusing (on a tripod).

These steps will better ensure that you’re giving yourself the best chance for an optimal viewing and focusing  experience.  A magnifier will magnify any problems, and I find that it reduces contrast. Mine is in a drawer, but I stick to RF focusing with only 28/35/50 focal lengths, and none faster than  f/1.4.

Jeff

Edited November 30, 2022 by Jeff S

[Corius]

Thanks everyone for the really excellent tips and advice. Plenty to help me get started!

I hadn't considered the problem of leaving the lens cap on (which I do frequently). I guess that's why the 35mm f1.4 FLE has a cutout in the lens hood. I had thought that was so you could see the full viewfinder, but it's obviously a "lens cap on" indicator 😉

[tom0511]

Easy if you have some lines/edges or anything like this in the focusing area. Sometimes it helps to change the orientation of the camera, for example its easier to focus a tree if you hold the camera in landscape orientation and not vertical. other than that it is just getting used to it.

 

The "tip" regarding the lens cap is a good one, still happens to me quite often even after using M cameras for over 30 years

[Jeff S]

43 minutes ago, Corius said:

I hadn't considered the problem of leaving the lens cap on (which I do frequently). I guess that's why the 35mm f1.4 FLE has a cutout in the lens hood. I had thought that was so you could see the full viewfinder, but it's obviously a "lens cap on" indicator 😉

I know you’re joking, but just to be clear (so to speak), viewing is not through the lens with an M, so the cutout is immaterial.  Viewing is always clear (unless your finger covers the viewing window), which is why leaving a lens cap on is not apparent. You probably know that, but not every RF newbie does. 
 

Jeff

[Corius]

16 minutes ago, Jeff S said:

I know you’re joking, but just to be clear (so to speak), viewing is not through the lens with an M, so the cutout is immaterial.  Viewing is always clear (unless your finger covers the viewing window), which is why leaving a lens cap on is not apparent. You probably know that, but not every RF newbie does. 
 

Jeff

Actually, I'm quite serious. The FLE has a cutout in the lens hood. When you leave the lens cap on you see a big black lump through the viewfinder. It's then obvious.

So "Viewing is always clear" as you wrote is not the case if you leave the lens hood lens cap on.

[Jeff S]

Just now, Corius said:

Actually, I'm quite serious. The FLE has a cutout in the lens hood. When you leave the lens cap on you see a big black lump through the viewfinder. It's then obvious.

So "Viewing is always clear" as you wrote is not the case if you leave the lens hood lens cap on.

Gotcha… missed your point.  (In that case, though, it would be even more obvious if there was no cutout.)

Jeff

[Corius]

4 minutes ago, Jeff S said:

Gotcha… missed your point.  (In that case, though, it would be even more obvious if there was no cutout.)

Jeff

No, if there was no cutout you couldn't tell if the lens cap was on or off

[Jeff S]

6 minutes ago, Corius said:

No, if there was no cutout you couldn't tell if the lens cap was on or off

Yes, as long as you remember that there’s supposed to be a cutout, consistent with all your other caps. My point was that seeing the lens protruding in the VF would prompt attention. Anyway, sorry to mess up the joke.
 

Jeff