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2 hours ago, jqian6 said:

after reading these many pages I decided not to order the SR 'lux 35.

I like filter, and hood at the same time. so no go. :)

I just want to say I'm really happy I still got it even with the hood issues. The rendering is great, the size/weight is great, and I have zero regrets. I'm documenting here in case anyone else is on the fence due to the hood. Currently I know of two hood options:

1. Fred Miranda posted earlier in this thread a cheap Ebay hood that works. I think it was like $10 USD or so. I have it, but I haven't had time to try it out. I trust Fred's info that it works. My only concern is that I have no idea if it actually prevents flare. It's a very shallow hood and it doesn't look like it will shade the front element very much.

2. Thorsten Overgaard sells a screw in e46 hood he says is compatible. I don't have it, but I trust that it works. The only downside I see is that it uses a 52mm front filter and I don't have any of those. I also really don't want to have to buy new filters.

So far I've had zero problems going without a hood. The lens flares at F1.4, but I haven't noticed any flare at F2, F2.8, etc yet. I keep an official Leica UV filter on it unless I'm shooting B&W with a yellow filter. The Leica UV silver filter matches the silver lens reasonably well.

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11 minutes ago, jqian6 said:

Overgaard’a hood is really bulky , I think it would work based on how big it is.

but I wouldn’t spend another $200 on a hood and wait for 3 months which may not come 

Totally fair. I agree that $200 is too much unless it's perfect, but I am glad he makes them and provides people with the option.

I just installed the $10 Ebay hood along with a slim B&W clear filter. I can't yet say for sure if it helps with flare or not. Overall I really like it so far and it's difficult to believe it's so cheap. 

I did notice that when I force a flare (overhead lights) I can easily get rid of it by stopping down to F1.7. Previously I thought I had to go to F2. 

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6 minutes ago, Jon Warwick said:

What would be the closest Voigtlander lens in terms of rendering to the reissued Steel Rim? …would it be the 35mm 1.4 Nokton-Classic (single coated)? 

Yes. If you get that one go with V2. That being said, the glow is definitely different, so if you want the steel rim unique rendering, you have this reissue, the original SR, or the closest 2nd, the pre-asph Summilux v2. A close 3rd would be the Nokton, but it seems to be quite sharper than the lux even at f1.4, with less glow, and it also has a bit of distortion. I never used that lens so I can’t speak for it though, just thoughts on what I read here in the forum. I don’t like the body design of the voigtlander lenses with that ugly rim for the filters (although it works well and Leica can’t even get the hood right lol), but price/performance wise is definitely the best choice.

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14 minutes ago, Jon Warwick said:

What would be the closest Voigtlander lens in terms of rendering to the reissued Steel Rim? …would it be the 35mm 1.4 Nokton-Classic (single coated)? 

I haven't seen any definitive proof on if the steel rim reissue is single or multi coated. I don't have the Voigtlander Nokton v2, but my understanding is that that it is the closest thing you can get to the steel rim reissue (brand new). I believe Fred Miranda did a good review comparing them. I don't know if he used the SC or MC version.

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26 minutes ago, Crem said:

I haven't seen any definitive proof on if the steel rim reissue is single or multi coated. I don't have the Voigtlander Nokton v2, but my understanding is that that it is the closest thing you can get to the steel rim reissue (brand new). I believe Fred Miranda did a good review comparing them. I don't know if he used the SC or MC version.

For the short while I owned the CV (SC), I did see a glow, but it was nowhere near the glow of the v2 much less the glow from the Steel Rim. While the CV may be the next best thing, it can also be seen as a $600 discount on a v2. I may have to try again with another copy – I had to return mine as it was not calibrated correctly for focus at f/1.4 with the rangefinder. It certainly has a better filter/hood situation. Why Leica couldn't have used the simple Voigtlander-style bayonet mount for both hoods on the re-issue is beyond me.

As for coatings, if it's like the Summaron reissue, I would say its multi-coated. 

 

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4 hours ago, jqian6 said:

after reading these many pages I decided not to order the SR 'lux 35.

I like filter, and hood at the same time. so no go. :)

I can understand this but take a look back on some posts on the hood issue and you’ll see a few of us solved it by buying a shorter hood on eBay. Links to the ones that work with filters to buy in the US and Europe.

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2 hours ago, SJH said:

I can understand this but take a look back on some posts on the hood issue and you’ll see a few of us solved it by buying a shorter hood on eBay. Links to the ones that work with filters to buy in the US and Europe.

This reissue is a gem.. i love mine.. though using only with the filter.. easily my lens when traveling light

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46 minutes ago, jakontil said:

This reissue is a gem.. i love mine.. though using only with the filter.. easily my lens when traveling light

Same here. I just use the filter, as I do with most of my lenses to keep the kit small and light, so it does not bother me at all. The lux pre-asph v2 is a good option for those who must have a filter and a hood, so people may look into that as an alternative. (It bothers me more that I need to use a hood on that lens to get a filter, but that’s my personal annoyance)

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4 minutes ago, shirubadanieru said:

Same here. I just use the filter, as I do with most of my lenses to keep the kit small and light, so it does not bother me at all. The lux pre-asph v2 is a good option for those who must have a filter and a hood, so people may look into that as an alternative. (It bothers me more that I need to use a hood on that lens to get a filter, but that’s my personal annoyance)

Count me in as a personal annoyance 😆

if anybody love’s characteristic of the lens, dont be discouraged getting one

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A slightly different question as I continue to look for a more “classic rendering” lens for my M10 M (I am exclusively using modern APOs at present!), how does the reissued Steel Rim compare when stopped down in terms of rendering compared to the reissued 28mm Summaron? I think what I’m searching for is a lower contrast, more classic and smoother look compared to my APOs ….but equally don’t want an unsharp or “bad” lens, if that makes sense?

Edited by Jon Warwick
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42 minutes ago, Jon Warwick said:

A slightly different question as I continue to look for a more “classic rendering” lens for my M10 M (I am exclusively using modern APOs at present!), how does the reissued Steel Rim compare when stopped down in terms of rendering compared to the reissued 28mm Summaron? I think what I’m searching for is a lower contrast, more classic and smoother look compared to my APOs ….but equally don’t want an unsharp or “bad” lens, if that makes sense?

Both 35SR and 28:5.6 are plenty sharp stopped down IMO. And are both amazing on M10M - two of my faves lenses for mono.

If you want slightly lower contrast 35mm Summicron V3 is a good place to start.

35Cron 8e is supposed to be awesome for M10Mono, very high resolving power even at f/2 but much lower contrast. Expensive and difficult to find mint copies free of haze and/or polish marks - havent tried one myself.

Lastly, I would like to highlight the cheap buy amazing 35:3.5 Summaron. I have the LTM version from 1958. Amazing BQ and lovely rendering on M10M. Lower contrast and still good center sharpness. Gives a great vintage BW look.

Just some input - but of course all personal preferences - and also dependent of photographic subject matter and style. I went from shooting ASPH. lenses to now only shooting pre-asph glass, apart from my 50mm 1.2 Nocti ASPH re-issue. But that is also far from modern ASPH look.

- Mads

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13 minutes ago, mcpallesen said:

Both 35SR and 28:5.6 are plenty sharp stopped down IMO. And are both amazing on M10M - two of my faves lenses for mono.

If you want slightly lower contrast 35mm Summicron V3 is a good place to start.

35Cron 8e is supposed to be awesome for M10Mono, very high resolving power even at f/2 but much lower contrast. Expensive and difficult to find mint copies free of haze and/or polish marks - havent tried one myself.

Lastly, I would like to highlight the cheap buy amazing 35:3.5 Summaron. I have the LTM version from 1958. Amazing BQ and lovely rendering on M10M. Lower contrast and still good center sharpness. Gives a great vintage BW look.

Just some input - but of course all personal preferences - and also dependent of photographic subject matter and style. I went from shooting ASPH. lenses to now only shooting pre-asph glass, apart from my 50mm 1.2 Nocti ASPH re-issue. But that is also far from modern ASPH look.

- Mads

That’s really helpful. Many thanks! Seems I need to take the M10M off to the store and try some of these reissued lenses out. 

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Hi. Thought I test a scene with the lens wide open at f1.4 and at f2.0. Both shot with an M11. 

Here is the one wide open. 

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And here is the one shot at f2.0

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the QC on this lens is a bit suspect, have a very loose aperture ring on my copy ( seems to be common ) but it draws beautifully on film without breaking the bank... w the originals are priced only for collectors, the reissue is definitely for the field 

here are some samples on trix

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On 1/27/2023 at 1:26 PM, mcpallesen said:

Both 35SR and 28:5.6 are plenty sharp stopped down IMO. And are both amazing on M10M - two of my faves lenses for mono.

If you want slightly lower contrast 35mm Summicron V3 is a good place to start.

35Cron 8e is supposed to be awesome for M10Mono, very high resolving power even at f/2 but much lower contrast. Expensive and difficult to find mint copies free of haze and/or polish marks - havent tried one myself.

Lastly, I would like to highlight the cheap buy amazing 35:3.5 Summaron. I have the LTM version from 1958. Amazing BQ and lovely rendering on M10M. Lower contrast and still good center sharpness. Gives a great vintage BW look.

Just some input - but of course all personal preferences - and also dependent of photographic subject matter and style. I went from shooting ASPH. lenses to now only shooting pre-asph glass, apart from my 50mm 1.2 Nocti ASPH re-issue. But that is also far from modern ASPH look.

- Mads

@JMF, would love to hear your thoughts or input? 😊

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3 hours ago, mcpallesen said:

@JMF, would love to hear your thoughts or input? 😊

The above subject is covering a rather large number of parameters !

Shooting digital or film or  both ?

I have not tested the SR reissue and was told that on film , it is equivalent to the 35 summilux v2 pre asph in its rendering .

In my opinion, the only reissue lens that is matching the original is the 2005 35 1.8 W-Nikkor. 
 

Best, JM


 

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31 minutes ago, JMF said:

The above subject is covering a rather large number of parameters !

Shooting digital or film or  both ?

I have not tested the SR reissue and was told that on film , it is equivalent to the 35 summilux v2 pre asph in its rendering .

Best, JM


 

I only shoot digital - M10R BP and M10Mono.

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