M11 focus bracketing question.

[Mark S]

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Hello everyone,

I have never used a rangefinder and just now learning about focus bracketing. I’m interested in the M11 but need to understand doing focus bracketing with this type of camera. Since the focus patch cannot be moved throughout the frame, would I have to keep moving the framed composition to place the focus patch in other areas of the scene then recompose back to the original? 
Would I be able to use the focus peaking in the M11 to focus bracket keeping my camera locked up on the tripod, not having to recompose for every different focus point? If this is possible, I have read that using focus peaking is not a precise method of focusing.

I really would like to start using a rangefinder but do not want to recompose using the focus bracketing technique.

Thank you in advance for your input. This will help me greatly in deciding if a rangefinder is for me.

Mark

 

 

[Photoworks]

what are you planing to do focus bracketing?

The usual application is macro photography.

The M11 in not the best macro camera, even if something can be done.

Focus bracketing is done by doing consistent micro adjustments in the focus by turning the lens, or by using rails and adjusting position.

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[Mark S]

Photoworks,

100 percent of my subject matter is the natural landscape. Nothing close up or macro.

Mark

[lct]

2 hours ago, Mark S said:

Since the focus patch cannot be moved throughout the frame, would I have to keep moving the framed composition to place the focus patch in other areas of the scene then recompose back to the original? 

In RF mode yes but in LV mode the focus point can be moved the same way as on mirrorless cameras.

[Photoworks]

4 hours ago, Mark S said:

Photoworks,

100 percent of my subject matter is the natural landscape. Nothing close up or macro.

Mark

You are good to go. Spend the money!

[Mark S]

Nice!

Thanks to all.

[Wandering Photographer]

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7 hours ago, Mark S said:

Hello everyone,

I have never used a rangefinder and just now learning about focus bracketing. I’m interested in the M11 but need to understand doing focus bracketing with this type of camera. Since the focus patch cannot be moved throughout the frame, would I have to keep moving the framed composition to place the focus patch in other areas of the scene then recompose back to the original? 
Would I be able to use the focus peaking in the M11 to focus bracket keeping my camera locked up on the tripod, not having to recompose for every different focus point? If this is possible, I have read that using focus peaking is not a precise method of focusing.

I really would like to start using a rangefinder but do not want to recompose using the focus bracketing technique.

Thank you in advance for your input. This will help me greatly in deciding if a rangefinder is for me.

Mark

With the range finder, you place the range finder rectangle on the area you want to have in focus , focus it and then frame it how you would like. On a tripod, I use the Arca Swiss Ball head and have the camera mounted on a Really Right Stuff L plate custom designed for the M11. I move the camera, to put the focus point on what I want to have in sharp focus, then frame, then tighten the ball head and take the photograph. You can use the markings on the lens barrel to get an idea of your depth of field. The trick is to not move after you focus, so the minor change of distances that are created after framing the image are insignificant.

 

 

[Mark S]

Very good, thanks WP

I guess with the rangefinder it’s not really possible to focus stack because of having to repeatedly recompose after using the focus patch on different areas for multiple exposures. Unless I can use live view to focus like the gentleman stated earlier in the thread.

If this is possible, to focus on other areas using live view, not having to move the camera then I have to research and learn this type of focus technique.

Live view focusing is using the screen to focus, correct. I used to stop way down or use hyper focal distance but I want to avoid diffraction. So I thought I would use focus stacking.

 

 

Edited October 13, 2022 by Mark S

[Anakronox]

Also, you have the option of zone focusing since M lenses are fully manual and have focus scales.  I would nail down your composition first.  Since you do landscapes and assuming that nothing important in your scene moves, you could start by setting the lens to your preferred aperture and corresponding hyperfocal distance.  Looking at the scale on the lens, you can then move your point of focus closer and shoot without recomposing.  

[Photoworks]

12 hours ago, Mark S said:

Very good, thanks WP

I guess with the rangefinder it’s not really possible to focus stack because of having to repeatedly recompose after using the focus patch on different areas for multiple exposures. Unless I can use live view to focus like the gentleman stated earlier in the thread.

If this is possible, to focus on other areas using live view, not having to move the camera then I have to research and learn this type of focus technique.

Live view focusing is using the screen to focus, correct. I used to stop way down or use hyper focal distance but I want to avoid diffraction. So I thought I would use focus stacking.

 

 

not sure why you are so passioned about Focus stacking! you should try one with any camera and see what is involved.

take the multiple photos and process them in a dedicated software. Discover the alignment mistake you have made and start over . On a good day you get one picture completer.

Most important it is useless for landscape in my opinion. unless you have the subject few inches away from the lens and you want the tree at infinity still in focus. at that point you better have a lens that does not have focus breading. And everything need to be static. Is nature static? 

the minimum focus point for rangefinder is 70 cm

[Mark S]

17 minutes ago, Photoworks said:

not sure why you are so passioned about Focus stacking! you should try one with any camera and see what is involved.

take the multiple photos and process them in a dedicated software. Discover the alignment mistake you have made and start over . On a good day you get one picture completer.

Most important it is useless for landscape in my opinion. unless you have the subject few inches away from the lens and you want the tree at infinity still in focus. at that point you better have a lens that does not have focus breading. And everything need to be static. Is nature static? 

the minimum focus point for rangefinder is 70 cm

With the help from you and the others I’m starting to drift my thinking away from being rigid about incorporating focus stacking , thinking more about using the distance scale like I used to.

[Mark S]

7 hours ago, Anakronox said:

Also, you have the option of zone focusing since M lenses are fully manual and have focus scales.  I would nail down your composition first.  Since you do landscapes and assuming that nothing important in your scene moves, you could start by setting the lens to your preferred aperture and corresponding hyperfocal distance.  Looking at the scale on the lens, you can then move your point of focus closer and shoot without recomposing.  

This is exactly what I’m going to do, go back to how I used to shoot using hyperfocal distance. Looking to get the M11 and the  Summilux-M 28mm f/1.4 ASPH as my first lens.

 

[Dsauro]

This is a 4 shot focus stacked image with the M11 and ‘lux 28mm.   On a tripod. 

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[M11 for me]

vor 8 Stunden schrieb Dsauro:

This is a 4 shot focus stacked image with the M11 and ‘lux 28mm.   On a tripod. 

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Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

@Dsauro Lovely picture and technically perfect. But with the slightest bit of wind that would probably not work. What is the solution then? Its actually the same problem when using longer exposure in lower light situations.

[Mark S]

On 10/13/2022 at 12:37 AM, Anakronox said:

 

After reading all the excellent posts I see no reason to not go with the M11 and Lux 28. In my photography I rarely would focus closer than 70 cm.

The Q3 keeps popping into my head tho. The EVF and all, I don’t know if the fixed 28 on the  q2 or q3 is as sharp as Lux 28.

So my only concerns with the M11 now are weather resistance compared to the q, not being able to focus through a evf at different areas of the frame without moving the camera. But I could use the techniques that lct, wandering p and a anakronox mentioned.

My choice is definitely between the q2 or 3 and the m11.

Edited October 14, 2022 by Mark S
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[Anakronox]

I’d say that if you’re into manual focus, stick with an M!  I zone focus with my Q2M and it’s… okay but the scale on its lens isn’t nearly as accurate as say my 28 Summicron.  I do struggle with letting that camera go, but in the end, weather sealing is very important for ~6 months out of the year.  Tough decision between the elemental protection and more satisfying focusing!

[lct]

1 minute ago, Anakronox said:

I’d say that if you’re into manual focus, stick with an M!  I zone focus with my Q2M and it’s… okay but the scale on its lens isn’t nearly as accurate as say my 28 Summicron.  I do struggle with letting that camera go, but in the end, weather sealing is very important for ~6 months out of the year.  Tough decision between the elemental protection and more satisfying focusing!

So you don't have a moving focus point on your Q2M? Just curious.

[Mark S]

4 minutes ago, Anakronox said:

I’d say that if you’re into manual focus, stick with an M!  I zone focus with my Q2M and it’s… okay but the scale on its lens isn’t nearly as accurate as say my 28 Summicron.  I do struggle with letting that camera go, but in the end, weather sealing is very important for ~6 months out of the year.  Tough decision between the elemental protection and more satisfying focusing!

4 minutes ago, Anakronox said:

 

Thank you this will help.

[Mark S]

I only shoot full manual all categories.

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[Photoworks]

43 minutes ago, Anakronox said:

I’d say that if you’re into manual focus, stick with an M!  I zone focus with my Q2M and it’s… okay but the scale on its lens isn’t nearly as accurate as say my 28 Summicron.  I do struggle with letting that camera go, but in the end, weather sealing is very important for ~6 months out of the year.  Tough decision between the elemental protection and more satisfying focusing!

I think if you have never use the M before I would suggest using the Q
weather sealing is more then water. it is dust too! 12 months a year.

There are different focusing option on the Q, but like SL