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The 35mm Summilux Asph FLE version 2 (close focus) images thread


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I thought I'd start!

M11 f5.6 ISO 64

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M11 at f1.4

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M11 @ f1.4

M11 @f1.4

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43 minutes ago, jaeger said:

I don't get it, so how did you get to 0.3m? 

I believe he only answered your second question. 
 

Viso, rear LCD or you’re really good at estimating distance. 
 

FYI: 0.3m for the Cron, 0.4m for the Lux. 

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1 hour ago, tightsqueez said:

I believe he only answered your second question. 
 

Viso, rear LCD or you’re really good at estimating distance. 
 

FYI: 0.3m for the Cron, 0.4m for the Lux. 

right ok that's for LV and I get that, but if I use OVF then there will be play between 0.7m & 0.3m without knowing where the focus was.   Voigtlander Nokton lenses have the same problem and I hate it.

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1 hour ago, jaeger said:

right ok that's for LV and I get that, but if I use OVF then there will be play between 0.7m & 0.3m without knowing where the focus was.   Voigtlander Nokton lenses have the same problem and I hate it.

Maybe that something they could fix on the M11P : a microswitch or optical encoder that turns on an indication in the OVF when the RF cam has reached the end of it’s travel.

For now it does need a careful eye to spot when the optical RF patch stops moving with focus.

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1 hour ago, jaeger said:

right ok that's for LV and I get that, but if I use OVF then there will be play between 0.7m & 0.3m without knowing where the focus was.   Voigtlander Nokton lenses have the same problem and I hate it.

This shouldn't really be a big problem. Close focus only applies when one is close to the subject. In my case, I have a good feel as to where 0.7m should be. On a Voigtlander, I first adjust the ring to 0.7m, and if I am too close, I just move slightly back until there is movement in the rangefinder patch and I can focus.

Food photography is a good way to practice.

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I’ve just picked up this lens and here are one of the first photos I took with it!

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I have the apo-cron, and I'll say it's very, very unlikely that you'll "accidentally" be in the non-RF part of the focusing area without realizing it, in practical use. The reason is the focus tab. If you're going so fast that you blow through the detente, your tab is likely going to be in a location that you very quickly just "sense" is wrong for the ovf. And if you're going slowly enough you'd only be just past the detente, you feel the detente. And the detente is very precisely at the .7m mark, so no issues there.

This is much better than the cron v5/v6, which actually focus to about .65m with RF coupling to .7m. The RF would stop moving a few degrees before MFD. *That* drove me nuts, because you couldn't just slam the tab to min focus distance and then move your body for focus. Honestly, it was the biggest (only?) flaw in the cron.

If I hadn't gotten the APO when I did (shear dumb luck), I would 100% have gotten this new lux now.

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2 hours ago, wdahab said:

I have the apo-cron, and I'll say it's very, very unlikely that you'll "accidentally" be in the non-RF part of the focusing area without realizing it, in practical use. The reason is the focus tab. If you're going so fast that you blow through the detente, your tab is likely going to be in a location that you very quickly just "sense" is wrong for the ovf. And if you're going slowly enough you'd only be just past the detente, you feel the detente. And the detente is very precisely at the .7m mark, so no issues there.

This is much better than the cron v5/v6, which actually focus to about .65m with RF coupling to .7m. The RF would stop moving a few degrees before MFD. *That* drove me nuts, because you couldn't just slam the tab to min focus distance and then move your body for focus. Honestly, it was the biggest (only?) flaw in the cron.

If I hadn't gotten the APO when I did (shear dumb luck), I would 100% have gotten this new lux now.

Yeah, I’m on the fence between the close focus Lux and Cron. Would you rather have the Lux? The Cron is definitely the more behaved lens but I’m not sold on the way the images look. I have the 50 APO and absolutely love the way the images come out, but the 35 APO… meh. Time will tell but I am liking the Lux. 
 

I wish there was some way the implement the close focus for a lot of us who still shoot a lot of film. Seems like a wasted feature. 

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Is this thread only for images taken at less than 0.7 meters, or images taken with the lens generally? I'm assuming the latter.

Leica M2 w/ 35mm Summilux FLE v2
Kodak Portra 800
Scanned at 6000 dpi on Plustek 8300i

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52386586071/in/album-72177720301810006/

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeremybunting/52386895809/in/album-72177720301810006/

 

Edited by Jeremy Bunting
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