Jump to content

M11 is


geotrupede

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

34 minutes ago, Sid Bolan said:

Thank you for sharing M11 teething problems so generously. Would love to know more about your flash technique. Have not yet found the idea flash for my M10-P.

sure and with pleasure, feel free to pm me for more details, if needed.

In general I use an old leica sf 24-d, which is a great flash because is 'auto', only issue with it is that it likes to sleep...

I have seen a new godox retro option, seem quite promising so may give it a shot.

-> what do I do with flash?

two options there for me

one is to blur the background by dragging the shot (usually night time, 1/8th of a second and f 5.6 or so, iso approx 3200 or so, this on MM1). so despite the f 5.6 you get a blurry background because it is not lit by the flash. the foreground is ultra sharp as lit by the flash.

the other technique is to create multiple exposure with a single bulb mode and several flash lamps. so you release the shutter  with time is set to 4 seconds (or 8) and then you use the flash freehand (not in the camera socket and not controlled by the camera) by pressing the test button. For that usually ISO 160 with yellow filter and f 11 or 16. night time cityscape.

examples on my usual website here:

some dragging examples among other things; https://www.papa-antonutto.com/wellcome#10

and multiple exposures: https://www.papa-antonutto.com/11276973-farewell-to-the-lukin

let me know if you need more info, I love flash!

G.

 

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, geotrupede said:

sure and with pleasure, feel free to pm me for more details, if needed.

In general I use an old leica sf 24-d, which is a great flash because is 'auto', only issue with it is that it likes to sleep...

I have seen a new godox retro option, seem quite promising so may give it a shot.

-> what do I do with flash?

two options there for me

one is to blur the background by dragging the shot (usually night time, 1/8th of a second and f 5.6 or so, iso approx 3200 or so, this on MM1). so despite the f 5.6 you get a blurry background because it is not lit by the flash. the foreground is ultra sharp as lit by the flash.

the other technique is to create multiple exposure with a single bulb mode and several flash lamps. so you release the shutter  with time is set to 4 seconds (or 8) and then you use the flash freehand (not in the camera socket and not controlled by the camera) by pressing the test button. For that usually ISO 160 with yellow filter and f 11 or 16. night time cityscape.

examples on my usual website here:

some dragging examples among other things; https://www.papa-antonutto.com/wellcome#10

and multiple exposures: https://www.papa-antonutto.com/11276973-farewell-to-the-lukin

let me know if you need more info, I love flash!

G.

 

Thank you for the links. I've had a look at your work and I loved it all. The multiple exposures were mad and quite brilliant. I love flash too, but have become rather conservative in its use. I occasionally use a Profoto head with the Nikon air remote on my M10,  but the way you combine flash with such dramatic monochromagraphy has inspired me to be more adventurous with my M10. Thank you.

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

so, update, after 4 days or so playing around I am now starting to know the M11. in fact it is not too bad 😉

ISO 10,000 is possible, provided exposure is right, noise is there but by removing the luminance noise reduction details are retained nicely.  the 18/36/60 is about the same so quite good to be able to save room if resolution is not necessary. the dynamic range is incredible.

The battery... wow, it never ends!

My only and last doubt is operational. The camera takes a little long to power up, either from off or from idle. hopefully this can be mitigated with an improved software.  Once it is on, the response is very fast and shutter very responsive. But you need to get there... 

One thing I have noticed which I cannot reproduce nor figure out is that the live view comes up without me intending to do so. I have removed all button functions that point to LV, so it has to be from the screen... but it is very odd. maybe there is a bug somewhere.

Do you know of any way to switch off the touch screen?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

vor 48 Minuten schrieb geotrupede:

The camera takes a little long to power up, either from off or from idle. hopefully this can be mitigated with an improved software.

This will not be possible. I talked about this to Leica. Modern cameras are computers they have to boot. Perhaps there will be improvement on this in the M12.

vor 49 Minuten schrieb geotrupede:

One thing I have noticed which I cannot reproduce nor figure out is that the live view comes up without me intending to do so.

Sometimes I thought this too, but I am nut really sure because of the shortcomings of the human brain. A bug is possible, the M11 still has some of them.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 7/30/2022 at 4:13 AM, geotrupede said:

My only and last doubt is operational. The camera takes a little long to power up, either from off or from idle. hopefully this can be mitigated with an improved software.  Once it is on, the response is very fast and shutter very responsive. But you need to get there... 

When I am out shooting I leave the M11 on and set it so that it does not go to sleep. It’s always ready to shoot. Even with power management turned off, I get almost a full day from the battery. 

By the way, I love your photos. Thanks for sharing your work and some of your techniques.

m

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

update / weekend shooting and more impressions / mostly very positive / really getting us to the M11.

battery is endless, 700+ shots and 50% in...

ISO below 1600 it is really good. at 60mp is good for posters...  details, no noise, etc. dynamic range, already mentioned, is really incredible. all good. 

for my specific user case  is a little different. 18mp  is good for me so I am staying away from 60.

But I need ISO 1600 minimum, often  3200 and more when is dark. This is because i try to have 1/1000th associated to f11 or f16. 

A big difference with the MM1 is that on the M11 when a picture is underexposed, at 3200, needing 1 or 2 stops boost, it totally breaks in post. In the MM1 is always pretty good, noisy but fine noise.  I think M11 suffers because of the conversion to B&W and my use of contrast. If the picture is exposed correctly, all is fine. If shooting in colour, all ok.

As for fast situation I rely on post to adjust exposure, I may need to change the approach with the M11.  It may be possible to approach with auto ISO, fix the shutter speed and aperture, and then rely on the matrix exposure reading. So far exposure reading seems pretty accurate so it may work. Next time I will try this.

Another odd/fun thing: the burst. It works really well but the 'feel' is odd and fun at the same time.

Burst  comes with some weird inertia. It manifests when one stops pressing the shutter, and reminds me of the spaghetti westerns 'final boss' machine guns with rotatory systems which turn for a bit, even when the bullets have ended. obviously it is not a feature, rather, is is caused by the down/up/down/up shutter dance. The shutter sound is good and quiet, even with burst. Just it feels shooting twice as many, plus the spaghetti western experience. I love it!

The buttons are fun to customise and useful. I would have liked the text in the screen to be larger, especially the ISO list, it is tiny! And perhaps get rid of the many intermediate ISO steps: if one wants to go from 64 to 2500, it is a LONG way. Of course one could use the ISO button on the touch interface, etc etc. So in the end I have decided to use the dial, perhaps if there is one there is a reason 😉

The touch screen is useful for the above reason, but somehow it switches LV on. Being able to remove the touch screen interface with a menu would be a great feature.

Lastly, I made a couple of prints of yesterday pictures and are totally indistinguishable from the MM1.

So all good, 😉 another happy customer.

G>

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

32 minutes ago, geotrupede said:

update / weekend shooting and more impressions / mostly very positive / really getting us to the M11.

battery is endless, 700+ shots and 50% in...

ISO below 1600 it is really good. at 60mp is good for posters...  details, no noise, etc. dynamic range, already mentioned, is really incredible. all good. 

for my specific user case  is a little different. 18mp  is good for me so I am staying away from 60.

But I need ISO 1600 minimum, often  3200 and more when is dark. This is because i try to have 1/1000th associated to f11 or f16. 

A big difference with the MM1 is that on the M11 when a picture is underexposed, at 3200, needing 1 or 2 stops boost, it totally breaks in post. In the MM1 is always pretty good, noisy but fine noise.  I think M11 suffers because of the conversion to B&W and my use of contrast. If the picture is exposed correctly, all is fine. If shooting in colour, all ok.

As for fast situation I rely on post to adjust exposure, I may need to change the approach with the M11.  It may be possible to approach with auto ISO, fix the shutter speed and aperture, and then rely on the matrix exposure reading. So far exposure reading seems pretty accurate so it may work. Next time I will try this.

Another odd/fun thing: the burst. It works really well but the 'feel' is odd and fun at the same time.

Burst  comes with some weird inertia. It manifests when one stops pressing the shutter, and reminds me of the spaghetti westerns 'final boss' machine guns with rotatory systems which turn for a bit, even when the bullets have ended. obviously it is not a feature, rather, is is caused by the down/up/down/up shutter dance. The shutter sound is good and quiet, even with burst. Just it feels shooting twice as many, plus the spaghetti western experience. I love it!

The buttons are fun to customise and useful. I would have liked the text in the screen to be larger, especially the ISO list, it is tiny! And perhaps get rid of the many intermediate ISO steps: if one wants to go from 64 to 2500, it is a LONG way. Of course one could use the ISO button on the touch interface, etc etc. So in the end I have decided to use the dial, perhaps if there is one there is a reason 😉

The touch screen is useful for the above reason, but somehow it switches LV on. Being able to remove the touch screen interface with a menu would be a great feature.

Lastly, I made a couple of prints of yesterday pictures and are totally indistinguishable from the MM1.

So all good, 😉 another happy customer.

G>

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the report.

For your 1/1000 sec. + ISO 1600/3200 + f/11/16 requirement: try boosting exposure —> use Auto ISO and +1 exposure comp while setting fixed f-stop and speed — might be better to recover highlights than to risk underexposure. 

Edited by hdmesa
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, one more thing. For me, using Center-weighted metering is much more consistent than Multi-field or Highlight-weighted metering and rarely jumps around leading to accidental under exposure. With Center-weighted, I set exposure comp to +1/3 or +2/3 and rarely get underexposed images or images with blown highlights.

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, geotrupede said:

update / weekend shooting and more impressions / mostly very positive / really getting us to the M11.

battery is endless, 700+ shots and 50% in...

ISO below 1600 it is really good. at 60mp is good for posters...  details, no noise, etc. dynamic range, already mentioned, is really incredible. all good. 

for my specific user case  is a little different. 18mp  is good for me so I am staying away from 60.

But I need ISO 1600 minimum, often  3200 and more when is dark. This is because i try to have 1/1000th associated to f11 or f16. 

A big difference with the MM1 is that on the M11 when a picture is underexposed, at 3200, needing 1 or 2 stops boost, it totally breaks in post. In the MM1 is always pretty good, noisy but fine noise.  I think M11 suffers because of the conversion to B&W and my use of contrast. If the picture is exposed correctly, all is fine. If shooting in colour, all ok.

As for fast situation I rely on post to adjust exposure, I may need to change the approach with the M11.  It may be possible to approach with auto ISO, fix the shutter speed and aperture, and then rely on the matrix exposure reading. So far exposure reading seems pretty accurate so it may work. Next time I will try this.

Another odd/fun thing: the burst. It works really well but the 'feel' is odd and fun at the same time.

Burst  comes with some weird inertia. It manifests when one stops pressing the shutter, and reminds me of the spaghetti westerns 'final boss' machine guns with rotatory systems which turn for a bit, even when the bullets have ended. obviously it is not a feature, rather, is is caused by the down/up/down/up shutter dance. The shutter sound is good and quiet, even with burst. Just it feels shooting twice as many, plus the spaghetti western experience. I love it!

The buttons are fun to customise and useful. I would have liked the text in the screen to be larger, especially the ISO list, it is tiny! And perhaps get rid of the many intermediate ISO steps: if one wants to go from 64 to 2500, it is a LONG way. Of course one could use the ISO button on the touch interface, etc etc. So in the end I have decided to use the dial, perhaps if there is one there is a reason 😉

The touch screen is useful for the above reason, but somehow it switches LV on. Being able to remove the touch screen interface with a menu would be a great feature.

Lastly, I made a couple of prints of yesterday pictures and are totally indistinguishable from the MM1.

So all good, 😉 another happy customer.

G>

 

 

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

 

 

 

ISO can also be assigned the rear thumb dial… 

https://www.reddotforum.com/content/2022/01/leica-m11-review-the-ultimate-digital-m/

Jeff

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

further update / tested the Auto ISO option, remapped button so i have CCT on top right, DNG size on wheel and lastly burst type on the 'fn' one. ISO is operated from the dial.

And auto iso / 1000 with f 11 and so is great. Exposure works and so I can get the minimum iso that is required to get the shot. highlights are massively preserved thanks to dynamic range...

now we are talking 😉

G>

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...