Can of worms - protective filter

[ianforber]

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Filter user here too. The only lens I’ve ever dropped was a 50mm Minolta when I fell down a spiral staircase. Buggered my knee but the filter saved the lens 🙂

[Anbaric]

On 7/15/2022 at 6:16 AM, mcpallesen said:

Thanks for all the replies and advice, guys.

I’ll keep the B+W clear protection filter on the lens. 😊 Better safe than sorry.

Best,

Mads

One thing to be aware of is that not all filters, even high quality B+W filters, are created equal. B+W has a few ranges, with MRC, MRC-Nano and (I think) standard single coating. The first two coatings should do a very good job at reducing flare, the other one not so much. Here's an MRC UV:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.5-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010M_UV-Haze_MRC.html

and here's the standard version:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.7-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010_UV-Haze.html

There's much more flare when shooting into the light with the standard filter. I assume this would also apply to the 'clear' equivalents.

The whole test is worth a look - it's a little out of date and you probably don't care about the UV ratings that contribute to the overall scores ('clear' protectors aren't included), but they scan the whole visible wavelength range (the Lensrental test linked upthread only looks at the single wavelength of the laser) and show actual pictures of flare.

https://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html

Personally, I would go with B+W MRC, MRC-Nano or Hoya HD. The B+W brass rings are nicer, and less likely to bind.

Edited July 16, 2022 by Anbaric

[Matlock]

1 hour ago, Anbaric said:

One thing to be aware of is that not all filters, even high quality B+W filters, are created equal. B+W has a few ranges, with MRC, MRC-Nano and (I think) standard single coating. The first two coatings should do a very good job at reducing flare, the other one not so much. Here's an MRC UV:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.5-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010M_UV-Haze_MRC.html

and here's the standard version:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.7-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010_UV-Haze.html

There's much more flare when shooting into the light with the standard filter. I assume this would also apply to the 'clear' equivalents.

The whole test is worth a look - it's a little out of date and you probably don't care about the UV ratings that contribute to the overall scores ('clear' protectors aren't included), but they scan the whole visible wavelength range (the Lensrental test linked upthread only looks at the single wavelength of the laser) and show actual pictures of flare.

https://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html

Personally, I would go with B+W MRC, MRC-Nano or Hoya HD. The B+W brass rings are nicer, and less likely to bind.

Fully agree. Heliopan filters are also excellent and are brass.

[RexGig0]

22 hours ago, BradS said:

I am very grateful to the previous owners of my 5cm f/1.5 Summarit (ca. 1953) and 5cm Summicron collapsible (ca. 1956) for their fastidious use of filters on these beautiful lenses...

 

Older Leitz lenses are known to be particularly vulnerable to “cleaning marks,” so, it is, indeed, wise to protect them.

[Guest]

4 hours ago, Anbaric said:

One thing to be aware of is that not all filters, even high quality B+W filters, are created equal. B+W has a few ranges, with MRC, MRC-Nano and (I think) standard single coating. The first two coatings should do a very good job at reducing flare, the other one not so much. Here's an MRC UV:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.5-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010M_UV-Haze_MRC.html

and here's the standard version:

https://www.lenstip.com/113.7-article-UV_filters_test_B+W_72mm_010_UV-Haze.html

There's much more flare when shooting into the light with the standard filter. I assume this would also apply to the 'clear' equivalents.

The whole test is worth a look - it's a little out of date and you probably don't care about the UV ratings that contribute to the overall scores ('clear' protectors aren't included), but they scan the whole visible wavelength range (the Lensrental test linked upthread only looks at the single wavelength of the laser) and show actual pictures of flare.

https://www.lenstip.com/113.1-article-UV_filters_test.html

Personally, I would go with B+W MRC, MRC-Nano or Hoya HD. The B+W brass rings are nicer, and less likely to bind.

Thanks. Yeah, I got the B+W MRC nano E39 T-pro (titanium finish, so it better matches my silver chrome 35mm Summicron ASPH. v1 than black filter). 😊

[egrossman]

I have a simple answer to the OP question: 

Erik

 

[Jeff S]

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On 7/16/2022 at 6:37 PM, egrossman said:

I have a simple answer to the OP question: 

 

Various people in that discussion never use a protective filter, only occasionally use one, avoid using one at night, use a lens cap instead, etc. And the OP paid nothing as a result of insurance. So apparently not a simple answer.

Jeff

Edited July 18, 2022 by Jeff S

[jankap]

Simple answer, I have no filters. And I am very careful at cleaning the front lenses.

[qqphot]

For lenses like old summicrons and summitars, a filter stays on the front at all times because they're just so easily damaged. For others, it depends. Ones where I don't usually have a substantial hood attached get filters for protection. I've done enough tests to satisfy myself that for most lenses it won't impact image quality much. Plus the b&w mrc filters are so easy to wipe crud off with no residue.

[tommonego@gmail.com]

Since college many years ago, I have been in the filter is an extra lens element that wasn't designed for the lens. So I haven't used UV or clear filters, as one college prof said, only use a filter when it will benefit the picture. I can hear the argument now. Anyway I bought an M8, for good color it needs a UV/IR cut filter. So a B+W filter sits on the lens when it is on the camera. Frankly I haven't noticed the image difference except for the color. So I am rethinking my filter stance. 

[charlesphoto99]

Always, whether in my capacity as a pro, fine artist, or just family photos. Last time I broke that rule I now have a nice scuff on the front element of my 135mm APO from quickly being shoved in a bag with other lenses. Good thing I love the lens, as it's now a keeper for life. 

[laowai_]

I wonder is some time an innovative lens manufacturer will make a user replaceable font element part of the optical design.

[jakontil]

I have always a filter on my lens, it’s a deciding factor to take one out n shoot

[rramesh]

1. Good - Filter
2. Better - Metal hood
3. Best - Insurance+1+2
4. Still not convinced, take a picture of it with another lens, keep in box in mint condition, and sell when prices high.

[Robert Blanko]

vor 10 Stunden schrieb charlesphoto99:

Always, whether in my capacity as a pro, fine artist, or just family photos. Last time I broke that rule I now have a nice scuff on the front element of my 135mm APO from quickly being shoved in a bag with other lenses. Good thing I love the lens, as it's now a keeper for life. 

Uh, that’s sad to hear.

BTW, the 135 APO has a flaw in the design of the hood: unlike the hood of the 50 Summilux, 50 and 75 APO, the hood cannot be locked by turning.

[pgk]

7 hours ago, laowai_ said:

I wonder is some time an innovative lens manufacturer will make a user replaceable font element part of the optical design.

Sort of. I seem to remember that it might have been Nikon who produced a long, fast lens with an integral protective front filter which could only be replaced by a repairer. This may well have been in the days when the front elements of such specialised, long lenses were relatively soft.

[Ko.Fe.]

On 7/13/2022 at 5:07 PM, mcpallesen said:

I know this has been discussed ad nausium. However, I want answers from working pros and amateurs not carrying their gear in two bags with triple lens caps. 😉

I’m a daily shooter of personal documentary photography of my family life with M10R BP and mainly 2.8/28 Elmarit ASPH v2 and 2/35 Summicron ASPH v1. I never keep my camera in a bag - always on shoulder strap - and no lens hood for keeping compact. Lens cap only used when packed in camera bag for travelling.

So in daily photography with front element on lenses fully exposed - question: Should I use protective filters or are front elements resistant enough to relax, enjoy, shoot and create memories?

 Best,

Mads

I was not leaving home without wearing camera for years. People would recognize me just by it, after years of not seeing me.

If I buy new lens, I simply not using it before filter is not installed.

I’m not gear trasher, so I don’t really need to cup the filter, because all of bags I use daily are camera bags. 
 

If you are not using filter or / and hood to me it just a matter of time before your front element is scratched.

I’m all for compactness, so I use compact only lenses, but filter and hood.

I’m not a sissy, I cover camera by hand in light rain and hood covers the filter.

[charlesphoto99]

56 minutes ago, Robert Blanko said:

Uh, that’s sad to hear.

BTW, the 135 APO has a flaw in the design of the hood: unlike the hood of the 50 Summilux, 50 and 75 APO, the hood cannot be locked by turning.

Right now the whole hood assembly on my 135 is loose, not to mention the lens is out of calibration. It's off to DAG this week or next. The hood is actually a bit of a joke as it doesn't come out any further than the length of a UV filter. 

[Robert Blanko]

vor 2 Stunden schrieb charlesphoto99:

Right now the whole hood assembly on my 135 is loose, not to mention the lens is out of calibration. It's off to DAG this week or next. The hood is actually a bit of a joke as it doesn't come out any further than the length of a UV filter. 

Usually the hood can be pulled out about 2cm, similar to that of the 75 APO, however without possibility to lock.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[charlesphoto99]

1 hour ago, Robert Blanko said:

Usually the hood can be pulled out about 2cm, similar to that of the 75 APO, however without possibility to lock.

Good to know (I have 75 APO as well). Thinking mine might have been broken from the get go - I did get it used and paid a pretty decent price for it ($2k) so not too concerned. It's gotten some good use. The front element scratch doesn't seem to effect the image quality, just any resale value it may have had.