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Anyone share your direct experience shooting Kodak Movie Print Film 2383 on still camera?


Einst_Stein

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In case you are not familiar with this film, it is intended to print the movie negative such as Vision 3 to make projectable positive image (negative to negative => positive). The color is balanced for that and does not match RA paper. It might work with digital as long as there is proper color profile apps ( and this is what I want to find out here). The ISO is in the range of 1~3.  Since it is so slow, I  expect very fine grain , but Kodak says Vision 3 50D is the worlds finest and sharpest film ever made, so maybe not as good as 50D. It should be developed in ECP-2 (vs. ECN-2 for color negative movie film such as Vision 3 50D, 200T, 250D, 500T)

What attracts my attention is the price. The ECN-2 short-end movie film costs about $70 /100ft (35mm bulk load), while regular (not short-end) ECP-2 film direct from B&H costs about $400/2000ft. Haven't found short-end supply yet.  The developer cost is similar (mainly same component but different mix amount), can be purchased from Artcraft chemicals (I can make either from those raw components). (costs ~ 0.5$ per roll).    

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I don't have direct experience with it in-camera. But I'm pretty sure it'll be immensely contrasty. Remember, all it needs for its dynamic range is the very narrow one it's gonna encounter in an ECN-2 negative (not the DR or the captured scene but the DR of the negative itself, which is very narrow in terms of densities, regardless if it corresponds to wide scene DR). And that DR for photographing a developed ECN-2 negative is *tiny* compared to a normal scene DR if you were to use that film in camera directly. Also the speed is very indicative too, super slow, copy films have characteristically very high contrast. Grain should be the least of your concerns, I'm sure it's much, much finer grained than the Vision films. Kodak's statement for "finest grain" for 50D refers to films used normally in camera, not copy/print films.

Also make sure you can actually get the chemicals needed. CD-2, Kodak anticalc can be tricky to get, and same for PDTA (or reasonably priced for small quantities at least) for the bleach and some special kodak chemical they needed for the bleach accelerator.

Lastly, the price you're quoting for short ends seems too high to me. I don't doubt you, but I'm saying someone is trying to take advantage of the popularity of Vision films and reselling short ends for the same price per foot as they cost for unopened cans straight from Kodak. It should be half that at least. For instance, you can get straight from Kodak, fresh and unopened, 400ft rolls for ~200€.

If you end up doing it, I'd be interested to see some results though, could be a fun experiment!

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If you know any better movie film source, please share. I got mine (50D and 200T)  from Mono No Aware. It is already much better than brand new.. Mono No Aware is also very helpful for technocal questions.

Vision 2383 is even cheaper. B&H has it for about 20% of the 50D per unit length.  It's less than $1 per 36exp.

The contrast of 2383 should not be a fundamental problem, especially with digital. Come to my mind would be multiple scan, for example. For direct print, silver masking is used to a solution when printing slide films.

Of course, if the other property makes it worth it. 

Edited by Einst_Stein
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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is some Kodak 250D. ECN-2 processed.

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And here is more, with an extreme crop on it. Same shoot. 

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And here is two more, same roll, same ECN-2 processing, without the crop. Kodak 250D.

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