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Metering


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10 minutes ago, LocalHero1953 said:

Bought a L-398 (no 'a' or 'm') on ebay yesterday for a good price. Supposedly unused, boxed - we shall see.

Ever since the Norwood Director, all of the improvements have been small, meaning there really isn’t enough difference between the models to be noticeable. The move to the amorphous photo cell was to make the manufacturing less toxic. In an earlier post, I misspoke about the locking needle. All of the models will lock the needle at the reading when the center button is released. It’s only the Studio Deluxe III that has the locking button that allows the needle to continuously read.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

During a long career as a film cinematographer (digital these days) I tried quite a few handheld meters.  Ultimately I settled on 2 which also work perfectly of course for my  M3. 

For incident readings I prefer the Sekonic Digilight L328F (or L318 which is the same meter minus the flash capabilities).  These meters are very compact and super intuitive to use.  Accuracy is very, very good in spite of the small lumisphere.  Unfortunately they are no longer being made, but it's pretty easy to find mint or NIB ones on eBay.

For spot readings I use a Zone VI modified Pentax digital.  These are also no longer available and good examples are getting hard to find.  There's a guy in Vermont who rebuilds them though. 

Lately I've been really curious about the new Reveni reflected light meter, just to simplify shooting with the M.

Edited by DoubleE
typo
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85% of the time I just look at the scene and adjust my numbers. Very liberating. When I am unsure I use a light meter app on my iPhone (myLightMeter).

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