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On the fence about a 246 monochrom. Tell me about "enhanced detail"


quietglow

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On 3/15/2022 at 9:46 PM, Tomsmac said:

I have to disagree. I’ve rented both before making a purchase and hands down the 246 crushes it. Here is the best example I could give you for now where it’s pretty obvious to me the 246 is the hands down winner between the 246 / M10M / SL2. https://www.reddotforum.com/content/2020/05/bw-iso-showdown-2020-leica-m10-monochrom-vs-m-monochrom-typ-246-vs-m10-p-vs-sl2/

David’s conclusion is the opposite, at least in terms of high ISO performance; the M10M has a 1.5 to 2 stop advantage and is the clear king of ISO in the Leica lineup, now even including the M11.  But in terms of other rendering qualities, much is subjective and remains in the eye of the beholder. I own the M9M and M10M, and each has its own appeal for me, just as the M246 works for you.

Jeff

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On 4/15/2022 at 10:24 AM, Jeff S said:

David’s conclusion is the opposite, at least in terms of high ISO performance; the M10M has a 1.5 to 2 stop advantage and is the clear king of ISO in the Leica lineup, now even including the M11.  But in terms of other rendering qualities, much is subjective and remains in the eye of the beholder. I own the M9M and M10M, and each has its own appeal for me, just as the M246 works for you.

Jeff

@Jeff S I would also say, as with the change ro M9M to M246 and again from M246 to M10M, it took some time to figure out how to best edit the files.  This was no different than shooting a few rolls of film to get the right exposure and development process.  I agree with you - whatever tool you can produce the best images with, is worth sticking to.  Personally, my favorite fils are Ilford FP4+ (ISO 125) and Kodak Tri-X 400, although I add Ilford Delta 400 sometimes.  I only use Ilford chemicals and only DDX and S developers. So, I am just as guilty of no change to different technology.

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On 3/16/2022 at 6:38 AM, Jon Warwick said:

Thanks. Out of curiosity, has Leica ever discussed what % of the frame is covered by the spot meter, otherwise how does one really know what’s being measured?! Presumably the answer depends on the frame size being used, so maybe it’s the case there’s no logical answer.  It might be that my digital Sekonic 1% spot meter remains the best solution for accuracy for subjects where there is time.

@Jon Warwick the spot and multi-metering on the M series has always only been available in Live View, either on the back of the camera LCD or with the EVF (just the EVF on the M10-D and M-D models).  In the spot metering mode, it shows the circle of coverage.  I believe it is very similar to the microprism cirlce on the R series and the S series, whatever % that might be.  The reason is because the sensor is doing the metering, not the reflective shutter.

I believe the M11 is different becuase it meters all the time with the sensor.  I don't have one yet  :)

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1 minute ago, davidmknoble said:

@Jeff S I would also say, as with the change ro M9M to M246 and again from M246 to M10M, it took some time to figure out how to best edit the files.  This was no different than shooting a few rolls of film to get the right exposure and development process.  I agree with you - whatever tool you can produce the best images with, is worth sticking to.  Personally, my favorite fils are Ilford FP4+ (ISO 125) and Kodak Tri-X 400, although I add Ilford Delta 400 sometimes.  I only use Ilford chemicals and only DDX and S developers. So, I am just as guilty of no change to different technology.

Surely. I, too, spent decades with film (since 1974), using multiple films, formats and manufacturers. Switching any one element, be it camera, film, paper, chemical, lens, etc, would require time and effort to assess and use to advantage. The difference with digital is the ease, convenience and flexibility of experimenting. This has pros and cons.  I can change the contrast/tone curve for a camera in seconds; with film this was more or less inherent.  With time I can make the output of one camera much closer to another (color, contrast, etc), but that’s rarely my goal. Each pic/print deserves its own treatment, and digital makes that so much easier than film and darkroom for me. On the other hand, some gear has special qualities that are hard to quantify; the M9 Monochrom often seems that way for me.

Jeff

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For what it’s worth, I’m a pro for years. Medium format mostly. Dumbest thing I ever did in my whole life was sell my M4-P years ago to buy whatever for my studio…. Anyway, being a portrait, fashion, people etc shooter, when Nikon digital bodies hit the market I never look back. When the M8 was released, I experienced lust for the first time in a long time… 

enter the X-Pro1. Bang, I’m shooting rangefinder again! And very respectful of the system, it delivered beautiful b&w. 
10 years later give or take, I get up one day, work work work, get in bed. Turn on iPad and, for reasons I’ll never know, bought a used, M mono Mint+ for the high 3’s. The camera bathes my mind in grays that I feel I can touch…. But most importantly is the giving quality of the dngs. C’mon man! Unreal. Long story short, calm time, slow thoughtful shooting with the 246 is otherworldly. It gives and gives when it’s loaded into light room. I have never shot handheld by window light at 2M in the morning and had such a huge range of tonality just lying there in Lightroom for me to do with what I will. It’s crazy beautiful. 
 

all the joy comes with a price. Unlike my Nikons, it seems to have a mind of its own. It exposes when IT chooses to… and sometimes it’s a self timer when I need to make the exposure instead. Plus, my face somehow manages to activate every possible menu option upon lifting it to my face to shoot. I will never part with it… it’s a yin Yang thing…

since it was my first “used” purchase of equipment ever, I won’t look back…. I now own 2 M8s, M3, MD-2, and my beloved  M4-P. 
All mint, and all for the price of a new M11 body. Long live Leica and long live eBay!

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