sean_reid Posted September 9, 2007 Share #41 Posted September 9, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I went out and bought a DYMO label maker to test this out. My CV lenses, both M-mount and screw mount with an adapter, cannot use a DYMO label as the tolerance is too tight- I cannot fully rotate the lens on my M8 to lock the lens in. Too bad, it would be a great solution for me. Hi Lloyd, Why not use the LT-M8 adapters for the LTM lenses? They're the ticket and worth the $$. Cheers, Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 9, 2007 Posted September 9, 2007 Hi sean_reid, Take a look here DYMO: Ultimate 6-bit coding solution!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ArtZ Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share #42 Posted September 11, 2007 Guys, I've been out for a couple of days. I have seen your comments. The reason I found for not having problems with the Nokton is probably because the bayonet ring has a smaller diameter (4mm) than Leica lenses. When the lens is attached to my body, I can see the mount ring on my M8. I believe this gives extra tolerance. I've intensivly using my Nokton these days. It really works perfect. I'm sorry that not everybody can do that. Though, when my CON 28/2 will be back from Solms, I will probably send the bayonet ring to John Millich for hard coding. Regards, . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 11, 2007 Share #43 Posted September 11, 2007 Wilson, I have a problem with the Elmarit 2.8/135mm - coded exactly the same, it does activate the 90mm frame automatically, but focal length is not displayed. Mount was also milled by John Milich, but there is a screw in the 001001 (both white) position; maybe that is the problem? Best, Jan Did you cover the screw in white paint completely? It should work then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttriolo Posted September 11, 2007 Share #44 Posted September 11, 2007 Does the M8 give indication that it is able to identify the lens other than having to shoot a frame and checking the EXIF data off the card? Is there some confirmation in the menu screens that the coding has been successful? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 11, 2007 Share #45 Posted September 11, 2007 The buttons play and info is the way. This is on the camera. No need to read exif in the computer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayerische Posted November 4, 2007 Share #46 Posted November 4, 2007 I'm bumping this one since I would like to try this on my Leica lenses. I've been manually drawing the stripes with a pen, working great on the 35mm, but my 50mm has clearly a mind of it's own, since I'm not able to draw the lines good enough... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share #47 Posted November 4, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm bumping this one since I would like to try this on my Leica lenses. I've been manually drawing the stripes with a pen, working great on the 35mm, but my 50mm has clearly a mind of it's own, since I'm not able to draw the lines good enough... Andreas, I have my Nokton 35/1.2 coded like this and works really well. My TE 28-35-50 was also coded with the Dymo until last Friday (I got it properly coded at Solms) and it worked perfectly well. The Leica guy who coded my TE was surprised (and pleased) to see it. The reason why I took my TE to Leica's CS it was because I could fit the lens with no problem in the first body. On the other body,it was very difficult to insert the bayonet ring (independently of the Dymo tape). After Leica replaced the bayonet ring, there's still a problem: If I screw completely the lens in this body, I get 4 frames at the same time in the viewfinder. I realized this when I was travelling from Solms to Paris. I believe the problem is on the M8. TIPS: 1.- If you use the Dymo tape method as described previously, leave about 5mm at each end after a black mark. If you cut the tape too short, the black marks will be dammaged after a while. 2.- After coding your lenses, check during the first weeks if some excess of adesive oozes from the tape (and if necessary clean it with a cloth). This is normal because the thickness of the adesive on a Dymo tape is thicker than the tape itself. After a couple of weeks, this is gone. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayerische Posted November 4, 2007 Share #48 Posted November 4, 2007 Andreas, I have my Nokton 35/1.2 coded like this and works really well. My TE 28-35-50 was also coded with the Dymo until last Friday (I got it properly coded at Solms) and it worked perfectly well. The Leica guy who coded my TE was surprised (and pleased) to see it. The reason why I took my TE to Leica's CS it was because I could fit the lens with no problem in the first body. On the other body,it was very difficult to insert the bayonet ring (independently of the Dymo tape). After Leica replaced the bayonet ring, there's still a problem: If I screw completely the lens in this body, I get 4 frames at the same time in the viewfinder. I realized this when I was travelling from Solms to Paris. I believe the problem is on the M8. TIPS: 1.- If you use the Dymo tape method as described previously, leave about 5mm at each end after a black mark. If you cut the tape too short, the black marks will be dammaged after a while. 2.- After coding your lenses, check during the first weeks if some excess of adesive oozes from the tape (and if necessary clean it with a cloth). This is normal because the thickness of the adesive on a Dymo tape is thicker than the tape itself. After a couple of weeks, this is gone. . OK, thank you for the tip, and for inventing this way of self-coding! It will save us some money and time having the lenses at home instead of at Solms Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayerische Posted November 10, 2007 Share #49 Posted November 10, 2007 I tried with a Brother machine, but I could not get it to work. (I'm suspecting more and more my sensor to be broken) In Finland Dymo labelpoint 150 and 250 are available. The Labelpoint 200 seems to be an obsolete model? DYMO | Toimistokäyttö DYMO | Product Compare Results Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArtZ Posted November 10, 2007 Author Share #50 Posted November 10, 2007 I tried with a Brother machine, but I could not get it to work. (I'm suspecting more and more my sensor to be broken) In Finland Dymo labelpoint 150 and 250 are available. The Labelpoint 200 seems to be an obsolete model? DYMO | Toimistokäyttö DYMO | Product Compare Results I believe both of them should work fine. If you want, when I return from NYC at the end of this week, I can send you by mail a couple of Dymo stickers for your lens if you want to try first. Let me know. If you want to try, just tell me what lens you want to code and I'll send it for you. Cheers . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayerische Posted November 29, 2007 Share #51 Posted November 29, 2007 I finally bought a DYMO machine, and it's simply impossible to get the coding to work... Tried atleast 50 times, and no way... By holding the dymo tape with my fingers aligned to the sensor I have managed to get the sensor to recognize the lens, but when placed on the lens it's impossible I think I need a picture of a lens with the coding exactly straight. Any helpers? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveB Posted November 29, 2007 Share #52 Posted November 29, 2007 I've never been able to successfully hand code a lens either with the DYMO or Sharpie methods. Even using a factory coded lens as a model doesn't get it done. When all other sources of frustration in my life have disappeared I may try again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JumpStart Posted November 30, 2007 Share #53 Posted November 30, 2007 When all other sources of frustration in my life have disappeared. When might this happen. I'm still waiting... Let me know if it happens and how you did it. DBK Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
germanlaws Posted November 30, 2007 Share #54 Posted November 30, 2007 Sorry, I didn´t suceed too. The M8 won´t accept my Elmar135 nor the vc 28. Maybe it´s a prob of my brother P-touch. The cam only accept the coded 50Lux. I finished trying. lg Dieter Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghammer Posted November 30, 2007 Share #55 Posted November 30, 2007 Sorry, I didn´t suceed too. The M8 won´t accept my Elmar135 nor the vc 28. Maybe it´s a prob of my brother P-touch. The cam only accept the coded 50Lux. I finished trying. lg Dieter For me both work perfectly well. Here is the CV28: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/32896-dymo-ultimate-6-bit-coding-solution/?do=findComment&comment=415478'>More sharing options...
DaveB Posted November 30, 2007 Share #56 Posted November 30, 2007 No, still no joy with the lenses. Funny though, no problem coding one of our triplets... Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/32896-dymo-ultimate-6-bit-coding-solution/?do=findComment&comment=415634'>More sharing options...
bayerische Posted December 3, 2007 Share #57 Posted December 3, 2007 I have given up with the Dymo... It's impossible. I'm thinking my IR-sensor is broken... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quorrell Posted December 14, 2007 Share #58 Posted December 14, 2007 Just coded my 28-50-35 Tri Elmar works a treat Cheers for the info phill:) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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