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M11 FIRMWARE UPDATE WISH LIST


NDTPHOTOGRAPHY

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  • Please for the love of all that is good, do one simple thing! Add 1/(3f) as a shutter speed limit in Auto ISO settings. That formula works perfectly for me and for many others and it stops driving IS unnecessarily high.
  • Also, please make USB C Thunderbolt connection work between the camera and Fotos on an iPad. the WiFi connection is too slow for  more than a handful of shots and if one has a suitable Thunderbolt cable in the bag, it can be used for charging and for data transfer, meaning one less thing to carry. USB-C is a funny standard and there are some cable that do power and some that do data and some that do both. I am using a USBC 3 apple thunderbolt cable that is highly specked for both and yet I can’t make a connection. I assume this is an MFI certified cable but if it isn’t, given that that there is a USBc to Lightening Leica cable provided with the camera, they should also provide or at least specify a USBC to USBC because frankly, are people more likely to want to transfer their images to their iPad or to their phone?
  • Allow more than one letter to be customised in file name
  • A proper RGB histogram please. It’s a serious camera and people want to work seriously with it.
  • Finally: the splits between SD and internal storage have in some Leica Logic manner missed what many photographers consider the most useful option: DNG to SD card and JPEG to Internal, just in case….
Edited by tashley
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Firmware update wish list:

- Faster startup on first power on

- Perspective control

- 1/3f shutter speed auto ISO option

- Allow more than one letter to be customized in file names (wtf)

- Fix non-responsive buttons and the camera hanging, if a firmware bug contributes to the problems

- Allow more features to be assigned to the customizable buttons

- And the most important firmware fixes of all: 1) add IBIS; 2) fix your half-case so it can be mounted on a tripod; 3) black-paint-on-brass firmware update.

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With the great battery life I set the auto standby to ‘off’ and of course forgot to turn the camera off when I got home after a photowalk. The maximum standby time is now 10 minutes. Please add longer options, 30 minutes but preferably at least 60. That way we can leave the camera on, but not drain the battery completely when we forget to turn it off. 

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8 minutes ago, mboerma said:

With the great battery life I set the auto standby to ‘off’ and of course forgot to turn the camera off when I got home after a photowalk. The maximum standby time is now 10 minutes. Please add longer options, 30 minutes but preferably at least 60. That way we can leave the camera on, but not drain the battery completely when we forget to turn it off. 

if you simply tap the shutter occasionally as you walk around it will keep it from sleeping. I get in the habit of this, especially as I sense a photo opportunity is coming. After awhile it just becomes second nature :)

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2 minutes ago, digitalfx said:

if you simply tap the shutter occasionally as you walk around it will keep it from sleeping. I get in the habit of this, especially as I sense a photo opportunity is coming. After awhile it just becomes second nature :)

I do that often, but 10 minutes is just too short for me. And this is a simple addition to the firmware. The other options (30s, 1min, 2min, 5min, 10min) are not very different. 

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Major :

  • 1/3f Auto ISO
  • when EVF is mounted and in extended display mode use the proximity sensor to activate the EVF instead of a LV on/off Fn button.  Would make the EVF compatible with the way an SL2 works and avoid giving up one of the three Fn buttons

Minor :

  • add dng to sd and jpg to internal mode
  • perspective control
  • add some LTM lenses to the list of uncoded lenses (i.e. LTM thambar since the thambar-m is coded and the profile is already in the camera firmware available)
Edited by Stef63
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1 hour ago, tashley said:

Also, please make USB C Thunderbolt connection work between the camera and Fotos on an iPad.

I was able to connect to iPad app with a few cable, but it is finicky . Apple usb cable works, Anker USB-C cable works . 

a right angle cable should be good to have to set camera down and not stress the port to do remote shooting from table..

I found that is you move the cable a little it disconnects. that is disappointing.

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2 hours ago, onasj said:

Firmware update wish list:

- Faster startup on first power on

- Perspective control

- 1/3f shutter speed auto ISO option

- Allow more than one letter to be customized in file names (wtf)

- Fix non-responsive buttons and the camera hanging, if a firmware bug contributes to the problems

- Allow more features to be assigned to the customizable buttons

- And the most important firmware fixes of all: 1) add IBIS; 2) fix your half-case so it can be mounted on a tripod; 3) black-paint-on-brass firmware update.

One letter limitation is consistent across all latest Leica cameras, AFAIK. 

I doubt that IBIS can be added via firmware, see title of the thread :).

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2 hours ago, Photoworks said:

I was able to connect to iPad app with a few cable, but it is finicky . Apple usb cable works, Anker USB-C cable works . 

a right angle cable should be good to have to set camera down and not stress the port to do remote shooting from table..

I found that is you move the cable a little it disconnects. that is disappointing.

There’s no one particular Apple USB cable…. I have identified that, camera to iPad, the Thunderbolt 3 cable doesn’t work. Jono found that too. SO it would be great to know which cable you used that worked. It would also be great if Apple marked their cables more clearly o we all know what we were using when we reached into the cable drawer….

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Add an option to use no metering at all, with the shutter staying closed. Allow us to set manual ISO, shutter speed and aperture and just open/close the shutter when taking a shot.   This would make a lot of fence-sitters who are wary of the permanent live-view happy, I think. 

At the very least, I really hope if they ever do offer an M11-D that if they can't bring back off the curtain metering, they provide the option to go entirely meterless (no LEDs in the OVF whatsoever). 

 

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1.  They need to allow more options on how we are saving files.  It should basically let us set the save preference for each slot, SD and Internal and for each we should be able to save DNG, JPG, or both.  Also, an option to set one as overflow only.

2.  the center button on the cross pad should center the focus point.  

3.  Disable touchscreen for the focus point.  I'm always finding it set to the bottom left (must be hitting it by accident way to easily)

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33 minutes ago, SrMi said:

Every lens can benefit from MPs. See Jono's M11 review, chapter "Can Leica Lenses 'resolve 60mp'".

 

Since some mathematical concept was used in the review, here is a good technical reason why 60mb is not ‘significantly’ better for low resolving lens:

total resolving power = lens resolving power x sensor resolving power

If your lens is high resolving, then the power is close to 100%, then the smaller the pixel pitch, the closer you are to 100% in resolving power.

But if your lens is thambar, then resolving power is very low (say 50%), then double your pixel count is at best going from 25% to 50% total resolving power. 
 

is it better on theory? In resolving power point of view, yes.  But only 25% better in absolute term at best. My eyes can’t really tell if the details is 25% better, but my hard drive cost doubled.

yes TO ME I can make do with less mp on my thambar.

 

 

 

 

 

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As I mentioned elsewhere, I ran into an issue... user error really... where I wound up shooting for a day in S-DNG inadvertently as I have been playing around with those modes the night before and failed to set things back to L-DNG.  Despite having looked at the menu several times throughout the course of the day, I failed to notice this while shooting as the lettering distinguishing L/M/S is simply too small for me to read at the distances involved. Hence, to make the mode more obvious at a glance, I'd suggest that the file output type icon utilize color to help determine which mode the camera is in, say green, yellow, red for L/M/S respectively. 

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