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Film simulation – open thread


evikne

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Uluru.  Pano.  Leica M (Typ 240)  Summilux-M 1:1.4/35 ASPH.

Mastin Labs Fuji Natura 1600 emulation

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Uluru.  Pano.  Leica M (Typ 240)  Summilux-M 1:1.4/35 ASPH.

Mastin Labs Fuji Provia 100 Slide Film emulation

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Uluru.  Pano.  Leica M (Typ 240)  Summilux-M 1:1.4/35 ASPH.

Mastin Labs Gold 200 emulation

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Uluru.  Pano.  Leica M (Typ 240)  Summilux-M 1:1.4/35 ASPH.

Mastin Labs Velvia 50 emulation

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RNI Kodachrome Generic

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M10 w/50mm Summilux pre-ASPH

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RNI Kodak Ultramax 400 v2

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RNI Kodak Ektar 100

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RNI Agfa Optima 200 v2

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M10 w/35mm Summilux pre-asph v2

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  • 2 months later...

RNI Kodak Gold 800

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M10 w/50mm Summilux pre-ASPH (E46)

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RNI Kodak Ultramax 400 v2

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M10 w/50mm Summilux pre-ASPH (E46)

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RNI Kodachrome Generic v4 muted faded

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RNI Kodachrome Generic v4 normalised

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RNI Ilford Delta 400

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  • 1 month later...

Some years ago I created a film emulation program that generated the "real" negative.

Then it had to be "developed" with real scan software (I used SilverFast)

The bad thing is that it only supported Leica M9 because it has a really complex calibration system.

 

One example (in the left the digital shoot, in the right the real film shoot. Down at left the digital after being processed by the program) :

+------------------------+------------------------+
|      original DNG      |                        |
+------------------------+------------------------+
|      converted DNG     |     scanned FILM       |
+------------------------+------------------------+
|      developed DNG     |     developed FILM     |
+------------------------+------------------------+

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Some other examples:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMFlv1E2vfI54bODhtLeqk9Y-oH43xfbmVAsgwregcD-9uNYt7JxzgmpOLkt3LrOA?key=ekhhZWFWNjZQcEgzZWZtSzI2aDhHSGM2dzRjY3Rn

 

The topic discussion was here: 

 

 

 

Edited by camalogica
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2 hours ago, camalogica said:

Some years ago I created a film emulation program that generated the "real" negative.

Then it had to be "developed" with real scan software (I used SilverFast)

The bad thing is that it only supported Leica M9 because it has a really complex calibration system.

 

One example (in the left the digital shoot, in the right the real film shoot. Down at left the digital after being processed by the program) :

+------------------------+------------------------+
|      original DNG      |                        |
+------------------------+------------------------+
|      converted DNG     |     scanned FILM       |
+------------------------+------------------------+
|      developed DNG     |     developed FILM     |
+------------------------+------------------------+

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

 

Some other examples:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMFlv1E2vfI54bODhtLeqk9Y-oH43xfbmVAsgwregcD-9uNYt7JxzgmpOLkt3LrOA?key=ekhhZWFWNjZQcEgzZWZtSzI2aDhHSGM2dzRjY3Rn

 

The topic discussion was here: 

Thank you! I've read the thread before, and it's very interesting. I wish it was available for other camera models as well. 

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M11, Lux 35 Steel Rim remake, heavy crop, RNI Agfa Optima 200 Warm. This thread got me excited about RNI (thank you all, especially @evikne). I doubt this edit is going to fool anyone, but overall I'm really enjoying RNI for adding a "film inspired" feel to photos.

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There are some very beautiful shots in this threads. Most of them, I can really appreciate. While I am sold for the look and feel of film, it seems to me one step too far to try and emulate film grain unless camera noise would be too visible.

I see grain of film as inherent evil, a downside of film. The same with digital noise and other properties that do not 'feel' right in a digital look. It would be great to have film of ISO 3200 with almost no grain!
Modern camera's can do that, but have other shortcomings.

So, if I can, I take the grain adding stage out of the profile. I do not want to fool anyone with my digital-film look, if the result is as pleasing as it would have been with actual film I would be very happy with the result.

How do you feel about grain?
 

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2 hours ago, dpitt said:

So, if I can, I take the grain adding stage out of the profile. I do not want to fool anyone with my digital-film look, if the result is as pleasing as it would have been with actual film I would be very happy with the result.

How do you feel about grain?

I agree with you. Profiles cannot even contain grain (only presets can). So when I select one of my profiles, there is no grain, even if it emulates an ISO 3200 film. My RNI profiles have a set of corresponding presets that select the associated profile and adds the "correct" amount and size of grain. 

But I certainly love the possibility to get the film look without grain. When I edit pictures for myself, I usually just select the "clean" profile. But in this thread I use the grainy presets to show how they were "intended" to look.

Here is the RNI Ilford Delta 3200 profile without grain:

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… and with grain:

Edited by evikne
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1 hour ago, evikne said:

I agree with you. Profiles cannot even contain grain (only presets can). So when I select one of my profiles, there is no grain, even if it emulates an ISO 3200 film. My RNI profiles have a set of corresponding presets that select the associated profile and adds the "correct" amount and size of grain. 

But I certainly love the possibility to get the film look without grain. When I edit pictures for myself, I usually just select the "clean" profile. But in this thread I use the grainy presets to show how they were "intended" to look.

Here is the RNI Ilford Delta 3200 profile without grain:

 

I like the one without grain best. Only if I would need to make it look old for some reason, I would take the one with grain, add some sepia tone and you're really done 🙂

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6 minutes ago, dpitt said:

I like the one without grain best. Only if I would need to make it look old for some reason, I would take the one with grain, add some sepia tone and you're really done 🙂

That is the one I've used. 😊 The grainy version was just one I exported now, to show what it looks like.

But if an image looks "too clean" without grain, I've also made some presets that add a smaller, almost invisible amount of grain, instead of the original settings. And the accompanying RNI Toolkit also has presets for all types of grain.

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