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4 minutes ago, M Street Photographer said:

Today I was on the road with the 50 1.0. I took the risk of only using the 1.4 viewfinder magnifier, the Visoflex stayed at home, was that a mistake? Because I have too many misfocused ones at f 1.0. Sometimes the forcus was a bit behind, sometimes at infinity, it wasn't "correctly" sharp. Possibly the infinity focus is faulty because past the infinity point I don't have 1mm of wiggle room to keep turning the focus ring to focus.
Adam, how is yours?
Next time I will test the Visflex again with 1.0.

I have a reasonable hit rate using only the RF, but it depends mainly on subject distance which increases the DOF.

The challenge with the F1 is that at close(ish) distances the DOF is so thin that even if the target (let's say an eye) is in focus then so much of the photo is either bokeh, which can look ok or is not sufficiently close the to the focus point so it simply looks recognisable but out of focus, which can look crap.

At MFD and F1 there's perhaps only a max of 2% of the photo in focus (depends on how flat the subject is of course)

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Here is a 100% crop of a picture of my daughter taken at f1 and MFD you can see that I've missed focus on her eye 🙄 but  look just how thin that DOF is !!! It's about as deep as 8 hairs!!!

Here really IMHO the trick would be to stop down, F2/2.8 at MFD will still blur the background but get more of the face in focus.

However.. at further away distances

If you see my telephone box shot above...

The part I focused on ("ANON ZEDS") is in focus, but better than that...

The part that's probably about 50cm (maybe more) behind the focus point is still just about acceptably sharp (IMO/OMWV)

The difference?

One shot is from 90cm the other maybe 4 or 5 meters!!

The other thing is that the RF isn't super accurate... we all can get different hit rates finding focus from starting at infinity and focusing closer or starting at MFD and moving the focus further away... and another thing I've noticed... I've never had a lens that if I'm very, very careful I can't fractionally (like 0.1mm or something) move the focus ring without making the the image in the RF move... or put another way - there's a teeny tiny bit of play inherent with the RF mechanism that matters nothing on most lenses but at F1/0.95 and close distances it will...

 IIRC Leica state the RF is only good for F1.4 (I wonder if they mean on a 21mm or a 75mm 😅)

Not sure what to tell you about my copy and infinity... if I turn the lens to the infinity hard stop the focusing scale on the lens is exactly aligned with the infinity mark, but more importantly if I focus on the moon it's perfectly aligned in the RF (and the lens is on infinity hard stop) so I'm as sure as I can be that copy is correct.

If I were you I'd test this yourself using a star or the moon and comparing with a different lens you own to see if they are the same (if all your lens can't align the RF patch correctly at true infinity then your RF needs adjustment, if it's just one lens, then it's the lens - if the lens aligns ok in the RF but doesn't focus then the lens needs shims adding or removing)

We all have different and multiple usage cases for our lenses, what works for me maybe not for you... but why did I buy the 50/1 (especially as a 50 lux asph owner)?

Three reasons

1. GAS

2. GAS

3. Because I love the F1 look at further away distances where I can really notice the difference to f1.4

 

F1. Sharp at the front and smooooothly stretching away into the distance

This (and the telephone box) for me (OMMV) is what 50F1 is all about, you stand across the street and still get that shallow DOF look even though you're some meters away... sure I've been testing it at MFD and shooting it into the sun and shooting telephone boxes and trains to test it but now I'm satisfied with my copy I'll be stopping down for MFD stuff and using F1 (away from portraiture etc) for street where I can hopefully isolate a subject that's some distance away and make that subject pop the point of the photo.

I do have a thing for red stuff, so I'll probably stick with the telephone boxes though 😅

 

 

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25 minutes ago, M Street Photographer said:

@Adam Bonn please look #376

it's ultimately a complicated process to focus.. there's the shape of the subject (sharp eye = blurry nose and ears) is the photographer parallel to the subject.

I think it's like a gun (not that I've ever shot one) if you move the barrel of the rifle up 1mm then 1000 meters away the bullet is far more than a 1mm off the target... likewise a tiny move of the head, not focusing dead centre and/or not being perpendicular  to the subject, was the photographer's eye correctly positioned in the VF... and suddenly like the rifle shooter the bullet is surprisingly far off target

I tend to fire off a few frames to try and cover my arse... although usually the first one is the in focus one, the rest I've inadvertently moved a bit.

 

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@Adam Bonn,

I will do the following:
Test VC 50 1.0 with the Visoflex, it could also be my fault that I made mistakes in the cold, but that wouldn't explain my infinity problem.
I will compare it with my Canon 50 0.95, both in the near and infinity range, also on your suggestion, the moon. All I have to do is stop the Canon down to 1.0 (funny thought). 😁
I will take 3 other 50s, only works with Visoflex, as they are adapted and not frequency-coupled. One has 1.4, another 2.0 the third 2.8. This is about infinity focusing and whether I can rotate 1-2 mm further after the transverse 8.
In the close range of 1 - 5 m the VC is very good.
Unfortunately, I currently have no access here in Berlin to another VC 1.0 to compare it with.
I had no problems with the Canon on the RIV, now on the M10 R I haven't tested it "properly" yet.
What I can underline are purple color fringes. Interestingly, they can hardly be corrected in C1, but without any problems in LR.

Would the photo be ok for you? Recorded f 1.0 at the infinity position. The vignette was not corrected, the lens hood was mounted.

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2 minutes ago, M Street Photographer said:

@Adam Bonn,

I will do the following:
Test VC 50 1.0 with the Visoflex, it could also be my fault that I made mistakes in the cold, but that wouldn't explain my infinity problem.
I will compare it with my Canon 50 0.95, both in the near and infinity range, also on your suggestion, the moon. All I have to do is stop the Canon down to 1.0 (funny thought). 😁
I will take 3 other 50s, only works with Visoflex, as they are adapted and not frequency-coupled. One has 1.4, another 2.0 the third 2.8. This is about infinity focusing and whether I can rotate 1-2 mm further after the transverse 8.
In the close range of 1 - 5 m the VC is very good.
Unfortunately, I currently have no access here in Berlin to another VC 1.0 to compare it with.
I had no problems with the Canon on the RIV, now on the M10 R I haven't tested it "properly" yet.
What I can underline are purple color fringes. Interestingly, they can hardly be corrected in C1, but without any problems in LR.

Would the photo be ok for you? Recorded f 1.0 at the infinity position.

 

 

You don't actually have to take the picture of the moon (in fact don't bother), just point the camera at it and check the RF aligns it 100% at infinity. Test with more than one lens, try and use a Leica lens if possible as a control, but it must be a RF coupled lens

Remember the RF can't tell the difference between 21mm and F22 or a 75mm noctilux wide open!!

All that's happening is that the focusing part of the lens is pushing the RF roller cam to the correct place for the focus setting of the lens

You would expect to see that all your lenses move the RF cam to resolve infinity correctly in the RF (whether they accurately focus at infinity is a different matter. One for another day)

For the sake of saying something... let's say that the lens should push the RF cam by 10mm (made that up, can't be arsed to go and measure it) to reach infinity, therefore every single Leica RF coupled lens should move the RF 10mm to reach infinity, so matter what lens or focal length it is (because infinity is always infinity)

LR is great with PF but it can still be a bit of a crapshoot... fix red but other stuff goes green, or everything has a grey boarder around it, it's just about trying to click on different things to get the best possible result... sometimes that result is called black and white 😅

RE your photo.. In short no, infinity is kilometres away that building was no where near infinity... 

Remember as well that the lens gets more challenging as we focus further away, there's (guessing here and not all lenses have the same amount of focus throw) 60 deg of rotation to go from 0.9m to 3m and about 5 deg of rotation to go from 10m to infinity... There's lots of scope to f**k up focus between 10m and infinity with only a few degrees of rotation to adjust the focus.

The first thing you need to is take the CV50 and another (ideally Leica) RF coupled lens and point it at the moon or at a star and check if it correctly aligns in the RF. 

If it doesn't then the next question to answer is do both the lenses fail to align correctly the by the same amount, if yes you need to adjust your RF (if no then shit just started getting complicated and that's one for another day)

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the night time shot!!

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46 minutes ago, M Street Photographer said:

A Renault R4, maybe it's just a dummy if it never moves.🤭

my working theory is that it doesn't work, I know a guy you bought one of these and drove it to Morocco from northern Portugal just for the road trip experience

(I went out today with only the 35 cron and f8 just to get back to some normalcy!!!!)

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Street scene with bottle (click to view properly).
I have to admit the subject is not as attractive as the R4 but the photo is quite remarkle in terms of sharpness, 3D pop, purple fringes, and flares - all-embracing

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1 hour ago, M Street Photographer said:

Sorry, I haven't been able to run the promised tests yet. I haven't forgotten, maybe Sunday or early in the week.

Whenever you can.. one needs a clear night anyway...

The view from my balcony...

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Now you're probably thinking WTAF? Why?

Well that pole is maybe 9-10 meters away... and I have this not at all scientific test (....) that if one can focus consistently on the pole wide open and get it sharp and the background blurry then the RF calibration is there or thereabouts

(I base this on I've had twice to adjust a RF roller cam on an M and both times I couldn't accurately focus on that pole before the adjustment)

(sorry I couldn't be arsed to take off the PF... I mean it's just a test shot so why bother?)

I have no focus issues (only sometimes the user focusing the camera issues 😅) with my copy of the CV50/1 and my M10R (and I think none on my M9 either from the day I used it with the 50/1... perhaps 18mpx is a little more forgiving though in terms of image review...)

 

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Don't let purple fringing sour the fun.
M10 + Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1:1.0 VM

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good shot! But adjust it a bit, then I would like it even more 😁

vor 4 Minuten schrieb 01maciel:

Don't let purple fringing sour the fun.
M10 + Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1:1.0 VM

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M9 and CV50/1 

(I'm pleased with this one in that I like it as a photo -YMMV- and I was very pleased it's -more or less- in acceptable focus, trying to focus at F1 on a tram traveling towards me whilst not being hit by said tram was a bit of a challenge... a bit like throwing a screwed up bit of paper into the trash can on the other side of the room... did I mean to do that? Yes of course! Could I make that shot every time? ahahaha f*ck no.)

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