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Your Favorite 400 ISO B/W film


kivis

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I've come round to Delta 400 - it's my go to 400 speed black and white film now. Fine detail and smooth tones. It seems to have a bit less latitude than good old HP5 but, for me, it's worth the effort to get the exposure right.

These are both on Delta 400. 

Wave on the beach - M4 and 35mm Summaron 2.8

Couple in café - M5 and 50mm Summilux ASPH.

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19 minutes ago, colint544 said:

I've come round to Delta 400 - it's my go to 400 speed black and white film now. Fine detail and smooth tones. It seems to have a bit less latitude than good old HP5 but, for me, it's worth the effort to get the exposure right.

These are both on Delta 400. 

Wave on the beach - M4 and 35mm Summaron 2.8

Couple in café - M5 and 50mm Summilux ASPH.

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Those are very nice. What devloper did you use?

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A couple more random thoughts on may affection for HP5.

I develop in XTOL, stock strength, which produced finer grain than developers like D76 and ID11.  

HP5 is also more forgiving in development, almost always resulting in a very light gray film base (easier to evaluate negatives on the light table), with no magenta/blue cast sometimes occurring in the tabular grain files (Delta and Tmax, which can affect VC filtering).  

HP5 also lays remarkably flat after the initial drying.  This is a lovely characteristics, especially after experiencing tight curling films like Tmax 100 & Tmax 400.  They can be very, very frustrating when trying to slide them into an archival sleeve.  Seems like a minor complaint, but in night-to-night darkroom work, it is an issue.

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Back in the days of film only I preferred Ilford FP4 but for 400 or pushing HP5 or Tri-X. These days I choose my film to suit what I am shooting if specifically B&W it will be gritty/grainy shots so Tri-X will normally be my choice but TBH if I am just shooting generally I will load Portra 160 or 400 and convert later in Lightroom any that I think are B&W worthy. I did an exercise a couple of years ago with Tri-X vs Portra shot at the same time with 35mm lenses on my M2 and MP, I liked the scanned files from the Portra better for general shots but the Tri-X would be better for certain types of shot.

Tri-X.

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Portra converted.

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Talking about Neopan 400 ...

I like the balance of black (really black), lovely gray hues, and grain pattern which is just fine not to be 'in the way'.

For me 'easy film' to learn to use.

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gray hues with T-Max dev.

 

in this following, the blacks in the wearings please me ( I don't know if in real they are black ...another story )

 

Neopan 400 with Tmax dev. 7min.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've recently been using Ilford PAN 400.

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Edited by ianman
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I use primarily 400 ISO black and white film, but I don't think my photographic style is defined by a specific film.

I prefer the comfort of just using Ilford HP5+ in Kodak HC110, but a recent almost doubling of the HP5+ 100feet roll price from my local shop, made me stock up on AgfaPhoto APX400 bulk rolls instead.
I also found a good price on single rolls of Kentmere 400 and hoarded some of that as well.

Developed in HC110, these looks similar enough that nobody will notice that my results are recorded on different film.

In my dreams I would still be shooting Neopan 400, but even if Fuji reintroduces it, it would probably cost twice as much as HP5+ (Like the current relationship between Acros 100 II and FP4+) and wouldn't be worth it anyway.

I wish pricing would reach a more stable level.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

more Neopan 400

😃each time I see those pics, I'm happy to use this nice unequalled film

 

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M6 HM, Summilux-M 35mm

(... Neopan 400, T-Max Dev. 7:30)

 

more posted in this fim thread too

Edited by a.noctilux
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HP5+ in HC110B for 5 min at 20 C. Shot with MP and 50mm Summicron DR

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TMAX 400 in D76 1:1 is my everyday Combo. 400 ISO with relatively fine grain and everything from black to white in there.

D76 is very stable. I could develop films after one year from the same stock dilution and gives me nice results.

If there is no TMAX 400 available I would prefer HP5.

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Edited by Fotoklaus
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vor 49 Minuten schrieb Aryel:

How do you store it? I always thought that d76 (and id11) were good for about 6 months only after mixing…

I would not recommend to use it after 6 months for safety reasons but stored in brown glass bottles, cool and dark, it was possible.

I use 1 Liter Bottles for the stock.

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The greatest thing about D-76 is that it's perfectly good as long as it isn't yellow. It will never catch you by surprise. A very slight deterioration will cause a strong yellowing.

I make 1 litre of D-76 concentrate (using the original, basic formula), which I split into four 250 ml brown glass bottles with glass caps. Then I add a bit of extra water to raise the liquid level up to the base of the cap, so that as little air as possible remains in the bottle when it's capped. This increases the volume in each bottle to 300 ml.
When the time comes to use it, I dilute the contents of one bottle with 200 ml of water, to obtain 500 ml of D-76 1+1. This can be used to develop two rolls of 135 film, or one roll of 120 film on a stainless steel reel, or two rolls of 120 on a Jobo reel. The 1+1 solution doesn't get reused. It's one-time only.

The concentrate thus stored is good for at least eight months, if not more. I believe I've had a bottle work perfectly after a year, if memory serves. But most of the time I use it up long before that. I mean I shoot film faster than the developer ages. I can shoot four films in less than two months, in which case the whole point of the developer's life is moot.

It goes without saying that I use exclusively distilled water. With tap water all bets are off.

I have avoided X-Tol all my life, and will continue to do so, because it is the exact opposite of D-76. It can (and will) fail suddenly and completely from one minute to the next, without any prior warning, without any external sign. Dead X-Tol looks absolutely identical to live X-Tol, and live X-Tol can suddenly turn into dead X-Tol when you least expect it. I've heard of people who developed a film just fine and had the very next film ruined immediately after that, on the same day. You can never trust it unless you've just mixed it fresh very recently.
I don't care how many virtues it may have. I will never put up with its quirky, capricious nature.

Edited by Vlad Soare
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agree! I use Ilford dd-x, especially for t-grain films. But, extol does create nice wide gray gamut, allowing me more latitude after scanning. Not sure what to use other than x-tol that has better shelf life. I am not a commercial developer, so there are not dozens of films being developed by me per day, let along per month.

 

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