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GFX + elcan 90 summicron

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GFX + elcan 90 summicron

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GFX50R + Leitz Elmar 35mm LTM [1946]

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OR

 

SL2-S + Leitz Elmar 35mm LTM [1946]

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SL2-S + Leitz Elmar 35mm LTM [1946]

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it looks like this :)>>>

 

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3 hours ago, CosmoM3 said:

For shooting film, the latest Mandler lenses are probably the cutting edge in terms of resolution for film as the newer Karbe lenses are just too expensive to be worthwhile.

….I haven’t had time to shoot with it yet, but the other option here could possibly be one of the latest Voitlander lens, in my case the 50mm APO Lanthar, which is cheaper new than most used Summicron v5 lenses (for example). I’m hoping the high acuity of a cutting edge modern lens like the APO Lanthar, combined with the inherent gentleness of film, could be a nice combo.

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I just got that lens.  Very impressive.  I bought it on Amazon, so there was no risk involved - it came via Camera Quest.  As long as I do my part right, the lens is possibly the best lens I now own.  But I've never tried one of the mega-dollars Leica lenses.  I was testing it today, and once I got my act together, it was better than my old Summicron, and my almost new Nikon 50 mm.

I guess I can also give it a try on film......

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7 hours ago, CosmoM3 said:

For shooting film, the latest Mandler lenses are probably the cutting edge in terms of resolution for film as the newer Karbe lenses are just too expensive to be worthwhile.

I don't quite follow you. The older ones are cutting edge just because they're cheaper?
This is like saying that a Ford Focus is the cutting edge in terms of power as a Corvette is just too expensive.

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SL2-S + Leitz Elmar 35mm LTM [1946]

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4 hours ago, Vlad Soare said:

I don't quite follow you. The older ones are cutting edge just because they're cheaper?
This is like saying that a Ford Focus is the cutting edge in terms of power as a Corvette is just too expensive.

It's probably more like saying that with both travelling at the highways speed limit the Ford is just as fast as a Corvette.

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9 hours ago, 250swb said:

It's probably more like saying that with both travelling at the highways speed limit the Ford is just as fast as a Corvette.

Well, yeah, but that doesn't make it cutting edge. I agree that it's good enough for practical purposes, but cutting edge it definitely isn't. :)

 

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4 hours ago, Vlad Soare said:

Well, yeah, but that doesn't make it cutting edge. I agree that it's good enough for practical purposes, but cutting edge it definitely isn't. :)

 

But it acknowledges that there is no film (that's commonly used) capable of rendering the same detail as an APO lens, so whatever minor benefits that can deliver is wasted on film. That said there is no digital sensor that can deliver the benefits of film, well, apart from the M9 CCD sensor that came close.

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2 hours ago, 250swb said:

there is no film (that's commonly used) capable of rendering the same detail as an APO lens......

there is no digital sensor that can deliver the benefits of film...

You wrote "that's commonly used".  What films are available that CAN capture all the detail from an APO lens?

What are the benefits of film that can NOT be captured with a digital sensor?

 

Lots of discussions about this, and I don't know the facts.  Every time I think I do, I am proven wrong.

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6 hours ago, MikeMyers said:

You wrote "that's commonly used".  What films are available that CAN capture all the detail from an APO lens?

Probably some cinematic film, with a speed of ASA 6 or thereabouts. I did try out such a film once, and it was indeed interesting, but for my own purposes I found it more trouble than it was worth, so I didn't continue using it.

 

8 hours ago, 250swb said:

But it acknowledges that there is no film (that's commonly used) capable of rendering the same detail as an APO lens, so whatever minor benefits that can deliver is wasted on film.

Fine detail is just one part of the equation. There's also flare, accurate colour rendering, etc. Take a shot with the sun in the frame, and the difference will be apparent even on film.

But anyway, I'm not contesting that older lenses are good enough for film (or even for digital for that matter). Or that they are marvellous in their own right, due to that classic, dreamy rendering. I'm sure they are lovely. I was just intrigued by the reasoning, "this one is cutting edge because the other one is more expensive". The logic seemed a bit daft to me.

Edited by Vlad Soare
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My take on what film can do vs what what digital can do.

In my understanding there are two important differences of theory and fact.
Firstly, film responds best to the blue end of the spectrum, while digital responds to the red end. This makes quite a big difference in monochrome (though you can work to compensate for it in digital B&W conversions), and some colour.
Secondly, and applicable only to negative film, but to me the more important difference, digital highlights are easily blown, and the gradations of light at the bright end are more difficult to separate with digital. This means that important information is lost in one of the parts of the image that catches the eye. Negative film, by contrast, can handle subtle differences in highlights, even in over exposure, but easily loses information in shadows if you under expose. This is one of the reasons I like film - skies, sunlit caucasian skin tones etc look much more interesting and realistic.
I should add that there are also many other reasons why I like digital - I'm not a hard core film or digital partisan.

 

Edit. I am happy to be corrected on the factual matters by those with more knowledge than me.

Edited by LocalHero1953
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7 hours ago, MikeMyers said:

You wrote "that's commonly used".  What films are available that CAN capture all the detail from an APO lens?

What are the benefits of film that can NOT be captured with a digital sensor?

 

Lots of discussions about this, and I don't know the facts.  Every time I think I do, I am proven wrong.

There is Adox CMS20 (usually rated at 16 ISO for pictorial use), and it must be used with it's own Adotech developer. It's the first film and developer combination I've come across where the instructions warn about lens diffraction degrading the films sharpness, so it's recommended to only work at f/4 or f/5.6! Used well it can cover the ground between 35mm and a regular medium format film (FP4 or Delta 100), and the 120 version covers the ground between regular 120 film and large format.  But it's a difficult and delicate film to work with and not suitable for Leica photographers because nobody on this forum owns a tripod 😉

The benefit of film not captured by a sensor is the characteristic curve inherent in the film and developer combinations. The M9 CCD sensor was very good at mimicking film especially around highlights with a nice 'S' curve, the following CMOS sensor was when Leica files became linear and bland, or people have to roll their sleeves up and do some proper post processing to create something interesting. For proof that photographers miss characterful images look at the threads in all photo forums about plugins and filters that override the safe linear character of modern cameras and impart an 'S' curve along with modified colour profiles, it's no coincidence that these are on the rise as cameras get 'better'.

Edited by 250swb
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1 hour ago, LocalHero1953 said:

Secondly, and applicable only to negative film, but to me the more important difference, digital highlights are easily blown, and the gradations of light at the bright end are more difficult to separate with digital. This means that important information is lost in one of the parts of the image that catches the eye. Negative film, by contrast, can handle subtle differences in highlights, even in over exposure, but easily loses information in shadows if you under expose.

I have to say some of the photos I’ve seen from the 10R, show a lot of improvement in that respect. But having never used one I don’t know if the photos need a lot of pp work to bring out the best in them.

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