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Leicameter MR-4


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Hello Mike,

A few thoughts.

The only difference that I know of between an MR meter (The 1 in your photo.) and an MR4 is the position of the "measuring" switch.

The MR meter was designed to be used with an M3, M2, M1 & MD. 

That is why the switch button is on the side. It is easier to use that way.

The MR4 meter was designed to be used with meterless cameras with angled rewind levers.

The MR4 meter is more difficult to use but it was thought at the time that it was better to keep fingers away from the canted rewind.

After the battery is in the meter 1 thing to do before putting the meter on the camera is to "zero" the meter.

Hold the meter in your hand with a finger over the meter cell.

Then push the measuring button on the side.

The needle should go to the "0" on the meter.

If it does not: With the appropriately sized small screwdriver: While holding the meter & covering the meter cell with 1 hand: Bring the needle to " 0 " with the small screwdriver in the other hand.

Best Regards,

Michael

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Hi Michael - and again, thank you!  So much that I don't understand.  I lost track of Leica when I got fully involved in Nikon SLR, then DSLR.  OK, first, I'll stop looking for an MR4, and just use what I've got.  I sort of tried to do what you suggested, as it was part of the video, but everything seemed "stuck in place".  Eventually the meter started responding in a reasonable way, and the readings I got sounded reasonable to me.  

My original plan was to make my NYC trip, with my Fuji, then when I return start working with the M3, concentrating mostly on the M10.  After the previous responses, I started thinking what the h*ll, why not leave the Fuji at home, and take my M3, but then I need to protect it in my carry-on bag, which led to searching all over my apartment until I found the case from Half a century ago.  The strap had "issues", which I had fixed with electrical tape.  I re-did those, and put new tape on the case.  I'll try to get the case fixed properly when I've got more time, and I can find someone who does that kind of work.  So, I got out my saddle soap, and worked on the case some more, until it looked presentable.  The M3 with Leicameter MR fits inside the case just fine.  Great, I'm going to look like a 1950's tourist.  Oh well.  If the only camera I take with me is the M3, that's what I'll be using for everything, both in NYC and in Massachusetts where I'll be for the weekend.  Fun.

I never expected to get to this point.  You are partly "responsible", as you explain things, and I say "why not!".  

I'll post a photo below - feel free to laugh at me all you wish to.   🙂   .....just like the 1950's and 60's and 70's for me, but back then I could never afford a Leicameter.  Speaking of which, my Gossen Lunapro is spanking-new-clean where the battery goes.  I think it takes two batteries.  For now though, I will only take what you see below - and I'm likely to need to buy more film.  I'm not sure how productive any of this is, but it's great fun!!!  Without your posts, I'd never have gotten this far.

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After spending a long weekend with the M3 kit, I found the following:

After using it over and over, I finally did get used to how to use the meter.  It also "died"  after a few days, which I fixed by moving the battery cover back and forth, bringing the meter back to life.  I've got 4 more photos to take before I send the film in for processing.

I also found that the huge leather case is a great way to protect the camera in my suitcase.  But I enjoy using the camera more if it's out of the case, meaning I need to put a strap on it.  I've got a nice Leica strap for that purpose.  I use it on most of my cameras.

Finally, my camera strap finally broke.  I found a leather specialist who sold me some new material to make a new strap, along with the rivets.  Now I just need to find an old-time shoe repairman to put it all together.

I also found the 50mm lens rather limiting.  I guess I'm spoiled, and maybe I need 35 or 28 to capture the views I typically see and want to capture.

 

Back to the meter, while it was working it worked fine.  The more I used it, the more convenient it became to select "red" or "black", then use the appropriate numbers.  Now that I'm home, I will adjust the small screws on the bottom of the meter, so it's a tiny bit higher off the top of the camera.  I think from now on, I'll keep the Sekonic in my pocket, as a "check" for what I'm doing.  I'll drop off the film this week - all but two images were taken according to the readout on the Leicameter.   When I get them scanned, I'll find out how well it worked for me.  I read up above about the calibration screw - maybe I'll need to adjust it.  Oh, and by aligning the black index line on the right side of the Leicameter, and lifting up on the shutter speed dial, the meter goes on and off the camera effortlessly.  

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I have had an MR-4 meter for a couple of years. I compared a readout of that meter against my Gossen Lune Pro digital. The Leica meter is off by a couple of stops. I know I could send it to DAG for adjustment, but trying to justify the cost when I have the Gossen and three different Sekonics, and a VCII meter. My VC meter sits firmly on the camera. 

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Haha.  A bit like my compass collection...they vary by more than a degree or so, just like light meters.

If they agree within half, even one stop.  As long as the error is repeatable, then all good.

I calibrate my meters against southern hemisphere clear mid year blue sky (no haze) at about midday 90 degrees to sun...reads f-stop speed.. f11; shutter speed same as ISO speed.

...

 

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1 hour ago, edstock said:

I have had an MR-4 meter for a couple of years. I compared a readout of that meter against my Gossen Lune Pro digital. The Leica meter is off by a couple of stops. I know I could send it to DAG for adjustment, but trying to justify the cost when I have the Gossen and three different Sekonics, and a VCII meter. My VC meter sits firmly on the camera. 

Hello Ed,

If you cover the metering cell with a finger & push & at the same time hold the measuring button REGARDLESS OF FILM SPEED SET: Does the needle rest EXACTLY over the " 0 " ?

Also, when you slide the meter test switch in the front (A separate circuit.) how close to the white dot on the measuring scale does the needle get?

Best Regards,

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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8 hours ago, Michael Geschlecht said:

If you cover the metering cell with a finger & push & at the same time hold the measuring button REGARDLESS OF FILM SPEED SET: Does the needle rest EXACTLY over the " 0 " ?

Also, when you slide the meter test switch in the front (A separate circuit.) how close to the white dot on the measuring scale does the needle get?

Michael, when I try the first test, several times, at different film speeds, the needle does point at the "0", but you wrote "exactly", and there always is a tolerance of how perfectly it repeats.  Looking at the meter, yes, it's at "zero", but getting very close to the meter, it might be a hair in front of the "zero".....   but for all practical purposes, it's at zero.

When I use the meter test switch in the front, the needle was always over the white dot on the measuring scale.  The needle could be anywhere between the center of the white dot, and the "front edge" of the white dot.  I just adjusted the calibration screw on the back of the meter slightly counter-clockwise, and the needle now goes to the center of the white dot, but the needle wavers a little - it isn't "rock steady".

 

If I want precision, I think my Sekonic meters are a better choice - or my LunaPro if I get batteries for it.

 

 

Edited by MikeMyers
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On 8/2/2021 at 4:32 PM, Michael Geschlecht said:

If, when you went to slide the meter in, in the beginning: The meter touched the top of the camera: Do what I just explained after turning the 2 headless screws a little so that they stick out between the meter shoe & the top of the camera. So that they lift the meter body above the meter shoe.

Michael, I read what you wrote several times.  I guess I didn't understand "why" this would make a difference.  My meter was definitely touching the top of the camera.  I did what you suggested, but the meter still touched.  Then I realized what you meant - the two headless screws when they stick out below the surface will raise the meter slightly.  I don't have a feeler gauge to measure the gap, but I can slide a piece of writing paper between the camera top and the meter, so I think all is well.  The two headless screws barely stick out from the surface.

From something else I read or thought, I was thinking that the front screws, and the rear screw, would "pivot" the meter over those two tiny screws.  No.  Once the tiny screws increased the gap between camera and meter, I just snugged up the other three screws.

Thank you once again - I did all this while reading your instructions, and suddenly it all became clear to me.

Suggestion - since the only instructions I have yet found are yours, maybe you should emphasize the words I highlighted.  That was the key to raising the meter to clear the camera.

Edited by MikeMyers
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  • 1 year later...

Hi all!

I just wanted to contribute to this thread by sharing a short video that I had earlier prepared for my customers (including the OP) who purchased Leicameters from me. It was a video that I prepared in haste, so apologies for the low production quality. However, the information content should be accurate. The adjustment of the cold-shoe foot starts at the 5:05 time mark.

If you have any questions regarding Leicameters, please don't hesitate to ask. I have a lot of experience, so I can probably help.

Kind regards,

Koray

Ankara, Turkey.

 

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  • 1 month later...
17 hours ago, edstock said:

I own three MR-4's and two VC ll meters. The Leica meters sit in a drawer, and the VC ll meters are mounted on my M2 and M4-P. I find that the VC meters are more accurate as they benefit from the latest electronics, where as the Leeica meters are old. 

Hello Ed,

That is interesting. As a person who has & uses both MR4 & VC II meters: Could you explain the differences between the 2 as far as ease of use, accuracy, operation etc. are concerned?

For example: MR4 meters sometimes have to be adjusted in order not to scratch the camera & to align the 27 degree angle of coverage with the 90mm frame at 1 (One) specific focusing point: Example: I choose Infinity for metering & then refocus after metering.

How do you do this with a VC II? With the "M" series meter this is done by adjusting the 2 large headed screws & the 3 small headed screws under the mounting shoe.

Best Regards,

Michael

Edited by Michael Geschlecht
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