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Partial disassembly - Leica Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH.


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With black chrome version it should be even easier process. Looks like first step there is to unscrew three flat thread bolts on aperture ring, remove it, and then either releasing aperture controlling ring if it's separate, or unscrewing few bolts on focusing ring and elevating it.

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8 hours ago, labyrinth said:

More pictures here link below. You can also find disassembly pictures of FLE and AA and Noctilux. It helped me a lot when I did CLA of my leica lenses.

Summilux-M 50mm F1.4 ASPH

Oh wow! Thank you very much for sharing this resource! Brilliant work done there, and it's extremely useful indeed. That will greatly help me to move forward with further disassembly steps.

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On 6/22/2021 at 4:33 AM, yukosteel said:

Oh wow! Thank you very much for sharing this resource! Brilliant work done there, and it's extremely useful indeed. That will greatly help me to move forward with further disassembly steps.

Here is my FLE before I gave it a new grease

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On 6/23/2021 at 1:06 AM, labyrinth said:

Here is my FLE before I gave it a new grease

Very cool! Great job done with disassembly and grease removal. And beautiful components there, thanks for sharing detialed pictures.

May I ask which grease are you using? I see there are different fine and larger threads there, so probably different viscosity grease is required there.

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On 6/21/2021 at 9:43 AM, labyrinth said:

More pictures here link below. You can also find disassembly pictures of FLE and AA and Noctilux. It helped me a lot when I did CLA of my leica lenses.

Summilux-M 50mm F1.4 ASPH

The part with the optical alignment is very intriguing, I wish I could understand it (even with google translate)

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4 hours ago, yukosteel said:

May I ask which grease are you using? I see there are different fine and larger threads there, so probably different viscosity grease is required there.

I mainly use "MicroLubrol Helimax-XP" which is fully synthetic base lithium and PTFE. For the fine thread helicoid you only need a tiny amount. It is stiff a little but butter smooth I like it and it is safe, very important. I have tried different other brands including famous Japanese grease but those use silicone oil as a base component which is hard to remove and tend to migrate, the oil will separate and spread all over. Silicon oil is also bad for plastics so stay away from it.

I wanted to try this grease as they say is a good choise, but due to my location could not obtain one.

This is how Japanese grease looks under the flange:

And here is my pre-FLE shiny and clean. Single coarse-threaded helicoid. Easy one:

Edited by labyrinth
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On 6/24/2021 at 3:30 PM, labyrinth said:

I mainly use "MicroLubrol Helimax-XP" which is fully synthetic base lithium and PTFE. For the fine thread helicoid you only need a tiny amount. It is stiff a little but butter smooth I like it and it is safe, very important. I have tried different other brands including famous Japanese grease but those use silicone oil as a base component which is hard to remove and tend to migrate, the oil will separate and spread all over. Silicon oil is also bad for plastics so stay away from it.

I wanted to try this grease as they say is a good choise, but due to my location could not obtain one.

Thank you for details! I'm also using Helimax-XP for wider threads, and also not very impressed by common Japanese grease #40 and #30 - tried it in Voigtlander lens and it is separating over time.

I've recently discovered Polar Bear Camera grease made in UK, and they have ASTM 470 and ASTM 420 grade that are softer than Helimax-XP. Tried it once for a fine thread of Zeiss 35/2 Biogon T, and it leads to much more effortless rotation. It's also fully synthetic PTFE.

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On 6/21/2021 at 6:06 PM, FrozenInTime said:

Such a short length of helicoid for a lot of mass in the optical cell forward of it ; may explain why so many of us have had problems with focusing slop and FLE stiction.

Exactly. I just measured hood assembly from the brass version (65gr). You can imagine the forces aluminum helicoid sustain when a front group moves. Definitely the design flaw

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  • 2 months later...
On 6/25/2021 at 6:30 AM, labyrinth said:

I mainly use "MicroLubrol Helimax-XP" which is fully synthetic base lithium and PTFE. For the fine thread helicoid you only need a tiny amount. It is stiff a little but butter smooth I like it and it is safe, very important. I have tried different other brands including famous Japanese grease but those use silicone oil as a base component which is hard to remove and tend to migrate, the oil will separate and spread all over. Silicon oil is also bad for plastics so stay away from it.

I wanted to try this grease as they say is a good choise, but due to my location could not obtain one.

This is how Japanese grease looks under the flange:

And here is my pre-FLE shiny and clean. Single coarse-threaded helicoid. Easy one:

labyrinth,

I am preparing to dissemble my 35 pre-FLE. Would you please share some photos or procedures on how to open the lenses and gease the aperture ring.

Thanks 

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On 6/26/2021 at 1:07 PM, yukosteel said:

Thank you for details! I'm also using Helimax-XP for wider threads, and also not very impressed by common Japanese grease #40 and #30 - tried it in Voigtlander lens and it is separating over time.

I've recently discovered Polar Bear Camera grease made in UK, and they have ASTM 470 and ASTM 420 grade that are softer than Helimax-XP. Tried it once for a fine thread of Zeiss 35/2 Biogon T, and it leads to much more effortless rotation. It's also fully synthetic PTFE.

which grease do you prefer, ASTM 470 or ASTM 420, for fine thread. They ultra soft and extra soft respectively and hard to decide which one suitable for my Leica 35 Summilux.  Thanks.

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On 9/21/2021 at 1:55 AM, Infantasy said:

labyrinth,

I am preparing to dissemble my 35 pre-FLE. Would you please share some photos or procedures on how to open the lenses and gease the aperture ring.

Thanks 

Hi there,

When I open up my precious lenses I usually do not mess with the optics so there is not much left to play around when you disassemble mechanics, particularly for non-FLE version all you do is remove the flange rotate the focus ring until it's off then loosen the ring with a spanner or calipers whatever you have at your disposal and remove that aluminum heli part then take the brass lock ling off and you are there. Refer to this disassembly pics of this technician.

There is not much to grease when speaking about aperture ring just a small trace for the metal ball to slide around. I think not worth the effort.

 

regards

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2 hours ago, labyrinth said:

Hi there,

When I open up my precious lenses I usually do not mess with the optics so there is not much left to play around when you disassemble mechanics, particularly for non-FLE version all you do is remove the flange rotate the focus ring until it's off then loosen the ring with a spanner or calipers whatever you have at your disposal and remove that aluminum heli part then take the brass lock ling off and you are there. Refer to this disassembly pics of this technician.

There is not much to grease when speaking about aperture ring just a small trace for the metal ball to slide around. I think not worth the effort.

 

regards

labyrinth,

I was able to dissemble the pre-FLE except the retaining ring for the circled parts. I had used calipers to open but unsuccessful.  It was very tight or may be at the wrong side. Would you please advise it should be turned clockwise or anti-clockwise?

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