jaapv Posted May 2, 2021 Share #21 Posted May 2, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sorry, diffraction exists and is not a product of lens technology but of basic laws of physics and optics. And it does impact image quality. No amount of denial will change that. BTW, I prefer Photomerge over Helicon as it produces fewer artifacts Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 2, 2021 Posted May 2, 2021 Hi jaapv, Take a look here SL2 Auto Focusing problem. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Photoworks Posted May 2, 2021 Share #22 Posted May 2, 2021 20 hours ago, Jim B said: Diffraction is more of a mocking bird rumor than a noticeable fact. On high quality modern lenses the idea that your images are going to be ruined at f22 is ridiculous. I’ve also shot at f32 which also produced excellent results without having the need to focus stack. Perhaps you are talking about some junk lenses from the 70’s but today’s high quality lenses have major technological advances that enable them to be sharp fully opened, or stopped down eliminating the old fashioned f8 sweet spot. It’s simply a thing of the past! Peter Karbe said once: Friends don't let other friends shoot past F11. Diffraction is present with all lenses at some point. Leica or not. If you are happy to shoot at F32, good for you. Some people are happy with some softness . Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonomaBear Posted May 2, 2021 Share #23 Posted May 2, 2021 Just now, Photoworks said: Some people are happy with some softness . Sometimes the subject suggests a bit of softness in the image making. Today's lenses are almost too surgical in sharpens whereas our wonderful M lenses give us the "Mandler Magic" we dearly love... So I'll shoot fully stopped down to introduce a bit of softness (diffraction) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM70 Posted May 3, 2021 Share #24 Posted May 3, 2021 16 hours ago, jaapv said: You could attain far better quality using focus stacking. Your are 100% correct. That is what I do when I need a wide DOF 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM70 Posted May 3, 2021 Share #25 Posted May 3, 2021 16 hours ago, Jim B said: No one mentioned your lack of skills, and you should do your own testing. But to tell people not to shoot higher than f16 is absurd. Please show me where my image is ruined as you claim... If the following quote is not implying I lack skills then I don’t know what is: “it’s more relevant that you may be having issues with your photographic technique.” And to tell people to shoot at f32 is equally absurd. Besides, I said that, that was my experience. People can make up their own mind. As I said before, if you are happy shooting at f22+ then by all means continue to do so. I am not criticising you for doing so like you seem to be criticising me for doing the opposite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM70 Posted May 3, 2021 Share #26 Posted May 3, 2021 11 hours ago, SonomaBear said: Sometimes the subject suggests a bit of softness in the image making. Today's lenses are almost too surgical in sharpens whereas our wonderful M lenses give us the "Mandler Magic" we dearly love... So I'll shoot fully stopped down to introduce a bit of softness (diffraction) That is a valid argument. If you wish to deliberately introduce some softness for artistic effects then you can achieve it with full stop down. Otherwise, if you want limited DOF with the main subject also benefiting from some softness then you can achieve that in post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 3, 2021 Share #27 Posted May 3, 2021 Advertisement (gone after registration) 11 hours ago, Photoworks said: Peter Karbe said once: Friends don't let other friends shoot past F11. Diffraction is present with all lenses at some point. Leica or not. If you are happy to shoot at F32, good for you. Some people are happy with some softness . And some (Leica) lenses are diffraction limited. Meaning you should not stop down at all 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sjz Posted May 3, 2021 Share #28 Posted May 3, 2021 Hi, am sorry to say but I think either the lens or the camera need adjusting. I have never experienced what you are describing, I hope it gets resolved quickly and without too many $$s being spent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim B Posted May 3, 2021 Share #29 Posted May 3, 2021 2 hours ago, RM70 said: If the following quote is not implying I lack skills then I don’t know what is: “it’s more relevant that you may be having issues with your photographic technique.” And to tell people to shoot at f32 is equally absurd. Besides, I said that, that was my experience. People can make up their own mind. As I said before, if you are happy shooting at f22+ then by all means continue to do so. I am not criticising you for doing so like you seem to be criticising me for doing the opposite. Oh my, I do apologize. I meant to use the word he to refer to the OP and mistakenly used the word you, as he was experiencing loose lens issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim B Posted May 3, 2021 Share #30 Posted May 3, 2021 16 hours ago, jaapv said: Sorry, diffraction exists and is not a product of lens technology but of basic laws of physics and optics. And it does impact image quality. No amount of denial will change that. BTW, I prefer Photomerge over Helicon as it produces fewer artifacts Thanks for the tip, I will look up that program! 14 hours ago, Photoworks said: Peter Karbe said once: Friends don't let other friends shoot past F11. Diffraction is present with all lenses at some point. Leica or not. If you are happy to shoot at F32, good for you. Some people are happy with some softness . I would assume he’s talking about 30 year old m lenses designed for film range finders. The new SL apo lenses are so very sharp across the range that you aren’t going to notice much diffraction at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted May 3, 2021 Share #31 Posted May 3, 2021 No-he was talking about his own designs -including SL lenses. As explained before, diffraction is caused by the physical size of the aperture and the wavelength of light. The higher a lens resolves, the more diffraction will show up at wider apertures. For instance the App Telyt R 280-4.0 resolves in the center at 400 l/ mm. That means that it is diffraction limited. I.e. diffraction will set in as soon as you stop down. Nowadays Karbe designs strive to be at their best wide open. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RM70 Posted May 3, 2021 Share #32 Posted May 3, 2021 50 minutes ago, Jim B said: Oh my, I do apologize. I meant to use the word he to refer to the OP and mistakenly used the word you, as he was experiencing loose lens issues. No harm done, and apologies accepted. Have a lovely day. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 3, 2021 Share #33 Posted May 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Jim B said: I would assume he’s talking about 30 year old m lenses designed for film range finders. The new SL apo lenses are so very sharp across the range that you aren’t going to notice much diffraction at all. it is funny to think Peter doesn't know what he is talking about. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
reindeer Posted May 3, 2021 Author Share #34 Posted May 3, 2021 5 hours ago, Sjz said: Hi, am sorry to say but I think either the lens or the camera need adjusting. I have never experienced what you are describing, I hope it gets resolved quickly and without too many $$s being spent. Dear Sjz, I think I've traced the problems to a perhaps loose connection between the lens and the camera body. I have arranged to return the lens to my supplier, and placed an order for another, new, APO f2 50mm Asph for my SL2. Thanks for your concern 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Photoworks Posted May 3, 2021 Share #35 Posted May 3, 2021 4 hours ago, reindeer said: Dear Sjz, I think I've traced the problems to a perhaps loose connection between the lens and the camera body. I have arranged to return the lens to my supplier, and placed an order for another, new, APO f2 50mm Asph for my SL2. Thanks for your concern good to hear you have resolved it Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eclectic Man Posted May 4, 2021 Share #36 Posted May 4, 2021 On 5/2/2021 at 4:17 PM, reindeer said: ... I do most of my work from a coracle on the local river so a tripod is a definite no-no! ... As I understand it from the rather humorous description of driving a coracle in R L Stephenson's 'Treasure Island', the coracle is a highly unstable craft. Are you sure that your 'focus problem', at least in some instances, is not due to camera movement? What shutter speed do you usually have set? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
reindeer Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share #37 Posted May 4, 2021 3 hours ago, Eclectic Man said: As I understand it from the rather humorous description of driving a coracle in R L Stephenson's 'Treasure Island', the coracle is a highly unstable craft. Are you sure that your 'focus problem', at least in some instances, is not due to camera movement? What shutter speed do you usually have set? The coracle I use is based on the craft used on the river Teifi (Tie-vee) in Wales. It's perfectly stable as long as you sit still. At this time of year the river Yare (Yeah - as in 'Yeah, yeah, yeah … ') in Norfolk, on which I photograph, is fairly sluggish, but, of course, one does drift gently downstream in the current, and - as there's no keel - the craft also spins round slowly too. With the SL2 I generally use shutter priority and set it at 1/400 (my average ISO is 400). I must say the times when I'm out of focus due to the movement of the boat are relatively rare - when it does happen it's usually because the coracle is turning away in the current, and I'm trying to shoot back over my shoulder. This rather brooding picture was taken with an OVF & without AF. I don't think the focus is too far off. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Quote Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/320452-sl2-auto-focusing-problem/?do=findComment&comment=4194511'>More sharing options...
reindeer Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share #38 Posted May 4, 2021 On 5/3/2021 at 10:47 PM, Photoworks said: good to hear you have resolved it My thanks to you Photoworks (and everyone else) for helping me to stop panicking and start analysing the problem. Much appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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