Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Scratches on the emulsion side should be very difficult in a 35mm camera body, as the emulsion side should only contact along the raised film rails and raised edges of the sprocket roller. The film path under the picture area is recessed so it can't contact the film. The layers of film wound on the take-up spool contact each other, but would not affect the whole roll. The emulsion side does wind outward toward the case on the take-up spool, but tension on the film should keep it tight to th

The fact that the scratches are on the emulsion side would seem to indicate the fault is not with the camera (although it is possible) however the various responses have just illustrated the rather common trend on this forum (and indeed many forums) for negative comments which are not born out by the overwhelming positive experiences of users.  

That is a brutal statistic. That’s why I don’t buy new cameras, analogue or digital, anymore. I have others buy new at full price,  test it for me, then take it off their hands at a steep discount 😜. 

Posted Images

1 hour ago, Ouroboros said:

I‘ve read your rants carefully, but you haven’t explained where the four screws on the front of the M-A come from.

 

From M4 ?

I see that the lens mount has five "Phillips" screws (plus one at "noon" ) on MP/M-A, only four slotted on M4 (plus "seal screw" ?).

...

Frames Illumination window has more stripes on new M. Why ?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, tightsqueez said:

Used M6 prices are insanely high now, but a lot less than a new MP. I have an M6 that has been there, done everything on the planet. Ask for an M6 that’s been blown up 26 times and and I’ll show you one. 
 

I wish I could give you silver bullet advice but there just isn’t a clear path. 
 

Do you require a meter? It’ll give you more options. I dunno, after all these years, I take the same exposed images whether with or without a meter. Can’t go wrong with an M3/2/4 paired with a good technician. 

Thanks for your comments.  Personally, I like to have an in-camera meter.  Of course, I could use my Gossen Luna-Pro or Pentax Spotmeter, but for casual carry, and in-camera meter is important to me.

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Ouroboros said:

I‘ve read your rants carefully, but you haven’t explained where the four screws on the front of the M-A come from.

 

I’m glad you read them carefully, no one wants a reckless reader. 
 

a.noctilux beat me to it but I find the throwback to the M4 nice... very fitting for the Frankenstein-ish M-A. Too bad they nixed the a la carte program; I’d order mine in Beryllium Copper alloy. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Danner said:

Thanks for your comments.  Personally, I like to have an in-camera meter.  Of course, I could use my Gossen Luna-Pro or Pentax Spotmeter, but for casual carry, and in-camera meter is important to me.

In camera meter is nice, especially with chromes. You gotta be really drunk to miss a C41 or black and white negative exposure. 
 

The M7 meter operation in actual use was pretty seamless. Too bad they didn’t evolve the product more. The M7 was my absolute work horse in Iraq. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Keops
      Hi there. Today while taking photos with my MP I realized some kind of liquid had dropped on the back of my camera. It had been dried before I noticed it. As a reflex I immediately clean the thing but the same stuff had also snuck on to the light seal cloth that covers the parameters of the back door. How can I clean the residue on the light seal? Or should I bother? I am afraid of the possibility of the strange liquid damaging the light seal.

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By Keops
      Hello there. I have been entertaining the idea of buying a half case for my Leica MP. I have mixed views about the half cases for these fine cameras. On one hand I want to protect this valuable piece of delicate machinery from harm as much as I can but on the other hand I don't want an extra layer of thickness while holding the camera which has already perfect dimensions. While I think of the Leicas and the cameras in general which have survived to this day I see a lot of them have some sort of leather case that protected them for all those years. But when I see the cameras of pros that have been brassed beautifully I admire them even more because of those marks. What are your thoughts on this subject? Does a Leica need a protection from harm? Should a black paint Leica brass over time? Will a Leica brass no matter what the intentions of its user? Does a half case make the camera thicker in a way that it affects its usability? Or do half cases make the camera easier to hold? If used with a half case, does black paint Leicas gather an uneven patina? 
    • By Keops
      Hello there. I am a happy owner of a Leica MP. I bought it as my first Leica couple of days ago after saving up for a considerable amount of time. Unfortunately I have a problem with my camera and after searching in internet I found out that nobody had a problem like mine. So I wanted to ask this minor thing that has been itching me for the last 2 days to the knowledgable people of this forum:
      My question is: Is it normal to have a 3mm long scratch in the inside of the baseplate, close to the little wheel? I noticed that after opening up the camera there is a small protrusion which sticks out of the camera in the film take up spool side. I suspect that it made the scratch to the inside of the baseplate as the tip of the protrusion is matching with the scratch itself. I don't remember if it was there or not when I opened camera for the first time. When I had my camera for the first time I accidentally closed the baseplate without the backdoor of the camera sitting perfectly. So when I locked the baseplate up the backdoor was literally open. I ofcource immediately saw my mistake and closed the camera correctly. Is there a possibility of I caused that scratch? 
      I am afraid that I was so excited to have my Leica that I caused the scratch by accident. If you enlighten me in this subject I would be grateful. Thanks in advance...
    • By Keith (M)
      A view of the scullery in the National Trust's Avebury Manor. MP, 28mm Elmarit-M ASPH, Portra 160, hand-held.

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
    • By Keith (M)
      Two views of the little church in the Wiltshire hanlet of Winterbourne Monckton. The exterior one is very 'chocolate box' whilst the interior one was hand-held at a very slow shutter-speed. Both MP, Elmarit-M 28mm ASPH, Portra 160.

      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
      Hello guest! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Hallo Gast! Du willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden!
×
×
  • Create New...