Visoflex and noctilux F1

[Drmat]

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I am considering the visoflex to use with the noctilux F1 on the M10M.  I find that the focus assist on live view is not particularly helpful - there does not seem to be much contrast registering in many lighting conditions when using the lens wide open.  I.e. I am only getting a few transient specks of red at best and I suspect that doesn’t mean much given that as soon as i press the shutter release the camera has probably moved!

Curious about the experience of others.  Is the visoflex a worthwhile investment with this lens?  Is there anything i can do to improve the use of the focus assist?

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[LeicaR10]

Drmat,  I occasionally use the Visoflex on my M10-M and R with the Noctilux and found turning off the focus peaking better for me.  To me, the colors were misleading depending on the light conditions and available contrast.  I suggest you turn off the color focus peaking and use the focus aid on automatic to determine what area you wish to be primary plane of focus.  I meant to add, I find the Visoflex very useful in very low light conditions.  Last, I use the rangefinder most of the time with the M lenses.  It just takes practice and patience to master the Noctilux using the rangefinder. I am sure others will offer their ideas.  r/ Mark

Edited February 22, 2021 by LeicaR10

[a.noctilux]

Hello Drmat,

Noctilux 1.0 is a lens to learn to use.

I don't have any tip for use Noctilux 1.0 with Visoflex 020, after trying out some time ago, it was NOT natural for me.

I've been using RF with it for such long time that I don't use it much wide open, for close subject.

Wide open, far object ( or some meters away ), not needing hassle of focus error with RF.

When I use at close distance, I close the lens to f/4.5 or 5.6.

I see that the apertures f/1.4 to f/4 don't have the smooth rendering of Noctilux ( I don't know just experiences of real life use, maybe the ninja star opening ?).

My Summilux pre-asph 50mm is much more tolerant in those apertures from f/1.4 onward.

 

M9 RF focus Noctilux 1.0 wide open

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more distance portrait

 

I prefer this to the former

depending on one's taste, but preference to her sweet smile

Edited February 22, 2021 by a.noctilux

[darylgo]

If your noctilux has accurate focus at f1 use the rangefinder, if not determine if it front focus or back focus and the difference on the focus ring, simply move the focus ring as determined after each rangefinder focus.  The f1 is a very low contrast lens, the color indicators of focus peaking will often be missing, they are an indication of contrast.  However the visoflex will shimmer when best focus is achieved, it's subtle, and often it's a  matter of finding the best focus as it can be non existent in low contrast subjects.  For me using the rangefinder makes the experience of shooting much more enjoyable, using a visoflex gives certainty of focus and framing.  

[Drmat]

@darylgo the lens was just serviced by Leica, so I am going to assume it is calibrated properly.  I too like the rangefinder and do not enjoy looking at a LCD.  I think you have confirmed my suspicion about the EVF - not likely to take advantage of the focus assist.  I suppose there is some merit in being able to zoom in on the focus, but seems like there is not enough of an advantage.  Maybe I should just learn to live with imperfect photos!

[Maarten]

As a tip for using the rangefinder: focus from infinity back and stop turning the focus ring back and forth. Once you've reached the focus area (coming from infinity) move your head/body for fine focusing. Try and you will be convinced!

[darylgo]

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3 hours ago, Drmat said:

@darylgo the lens was just serviced by Leica, so I am going to assume it is calibrated properly.

I wish that was always the case, a misfocused image reduces a 24mm sensors resolution to 6mp.  Testing one's lenses is critical for me to determine where focus lies and then simply correcting using Maarten or my technique.  

 

44 minutes ago, Maarten said:

As a tip for using the rangefinder: focus from infinity back and stop turning the focus ring back and forth. Once you've reached the focus area (coming from infinity) move your head/body for fine focusing. Try and you will be convinced!

Maarten, I've seen this done by a young Leica photographer, he nailed focus on his shots so well.  Yet, this technique is difficult for me and I've lost touch with my friend.  How do you know how far to move your head/body?

[Drmat]

@Maarten I use that technique all the time... it saves my wife from having to hold the pose!

[farnz]

5 hours ago, darylgo said:

Maarten, I've seen this done by a young Leica photographer, he nailed focus on his shots so well.  Yet, this technique is difficult for me and I've lost touch with my friend.  How do you know how far to move your head/body?

Step 1: Take two large brandies ...

Pete. 😇

[darylgo]

Lol, can't wait to get home and try this new Leica technique.  

[Maarten]

22 hours ago, darylgo said:

Maarten, I've seen this done by a young Leica photographer, he nailed focus on his shots so well.  Yet, this technique is difficult for me and I've lost touch with my friend.  How do you know how far to move your head/body?

You focus on the eye coming from infinity focus. Once done you stop focussing with the lens. You keep the eye in focus by looking through the viewfinder and moving forth and back (with or without brandy). 

Try on a static subject first. Focus coming from infinity and take a picture. Then try focusing into the reverse direction. You can also try 'fine focusing' by continuing to turn the focusing ring. I bet only the first picture will be sharp.

[Ecar]

Maarten is right. I use the same technique, whatever the lens: focus 'roughly' with the focus ring and fine tune by slightly rocking your body or head/neck. Works irrespective of the focus method (RF or EVF). Only downside (if that matters): depending on the fine adjustment required, the original framing may be very slightly off.

For lenses with inevitable focus shift, I use a variation: pick the 'worst' aperture (eg, f/2.8 or f/4 for a Sonnar calibrated for f/1.5), achieve RF focus and compare with what the EVF shows, then rock head in appropriate direction until target is in focus in the EVF. Repeat a few times to develop muscle memory, then try at intermediate aperture by halving 'rocking amount'. Put EVF back in the drawer, focus with the RF and let your neck do the adjustment according to the chosen aperture. It may seem complicated, but it really isn't. Takes only a couple of minutes (without brandy...) and I have found that muscle memory lingers for a while. I do that every time before I start using a lens that is a "known offender" when it comes to focus shift. Similarly, I guess you could train your hand muscles to apply an adjustment by nudging the focus ring (tried that, but wasn't consistent). Of course, I could focus with the EVF only, but that for me would be slower than the RF. Besides, where's the fun in that?

Edited February 24, 2021 by Ecar

[darylgo]

1 hour ago, Maarten said:

You focus on the eye coming from infinity focus. Once done you stop focussing with the lens. You keep the eye in focus by looking through the viewfinder and moving forth and back (with or without brandy). 

So, it works as well without Brandy as it does with? 

Thanks Maarten for your help.  

42 minutes ago, Ecar said:

Maarten is right. I use the same technique, whatever the lens: focus 'roughly' with the focus ring and fine tune by slightly rocking your body or head/neck. Works irrespective of the focus method (RF or EVF). Only downside (if that matters): depending on the fine adjustment required, the original framing may be very slightly off.

For lenses with inevitable focus shift, I use a variation: pick the 'worst' aperture (eg, f/2.8 or f/4 for a Sonnar calibrated for f/1.5), achieve RF focus and compare with what the EVF shows, then rock head in appropriate direction until target is in focus in the EVF. Repeat a few times to develop muscle memory, then try at intermediate aperture by halving 'rocking amount'. Put EVF back in the drawer, focus with the RF and let your neck do the adjustment according to the chosen aperture. It may seem complicated, but it really isn't. Takes only a couple of minutes (without brandy...) and I have found that muscle memory lingers for a while. I do that every time before I start using a lens that is a "known offender" when it comes to focus shift. Similarly, I guess you could train your hand muscles to apply an adjustment by nudging the focus ring (tried that, but wasn't consistent). Of course, I could focus with the EVF only, but that for me would be slower than the RF. Besides, where's the fun in that?

Thanks so much Ecar, maybe when the pandemic is over we could visit and have some Brandy together with  photography after if we're able.  

 

[Ecar]

2 hours ago, darylgo said:

Thanks so much Ecar, maybe when the pandemic is over we could visit and have some Brandy together with  photography after if we're able.  

Sure! I'm more of a wine (or whiskey, for the stronger stuff) person myself, but anything will do when it comes to (wonky) photography! 

[farnz]

Whiskey makes you frisky but wine makes you shine.

Pete.